Nhra rules say if you move the battery from the stock location you have to have a kill switch on the rear of the car. Is that a rwd rule that doesn't work for fwd? My battery is currently in the rear of the car. Being an EF, it couldn't stay in the stock location and being a Grassroots Motorsports $20xx Challenge car it is an autox car one day and drag car the next. After 2013 it will be a drag only car. If I move the battery behind the front bumper, can I get away with not having a kill switch? The battery will end up behind the front bumper after 2013 for sure. I don't want to buy a kill switch setup just to remove it in a year. I'll take the slight handling degradation and put the battery in the front if it will keep me from wasting money.

 

I believe every drag car weather you relocate the battery or not you are required to have a kill switch now. Correct me if i'm wrong.

 

faster than a certain time requires a kill switch, regardless of position of battery.
I believe if its faster than a 10.00 but not certain

 

If you move the battery from the stock location, you HAVE to run a kill switch.

I have mine in the bumper and was required to put a kill switch a few years ago.

Stefan.

 

So, you have to run cables all the way to the back, then all the to the front with the battery in the front? That's crazy.

 

There are other ways to accomplish a battery cut off effect without running battery cable to be rear of the car it is possible to do using small gauge wire.

 

Can you elaborate please?

 

I guess you could do it with a relay, not sure if that's exactly legal, but if you used the same switch on the back it might pass

 

Sure,

there are a few ways of doing this here are two I have used in the past

1 is to use a constant duty solenoid that is triggered off of the switch but cam be mounted near the batter and the switch wires can be small gauge

2 is to have the switch routed in line with the wire from the battery to the fuse box its a smaller gauge wire so its easy to route. For this you just need to reroute the alternator power wire to the battery directly instead of to the fuse box

There are other ways to do this as well but these are two that I know work well.

 

This is an example of the first method I mentioned.

http://www.t1racedevelopment.com/ind...utoff-kit.html

 

If that's legal, then an old school starter solenoid should be too. I'll go that way and buy 2. Way cheaper and i'll have a spare. My whole car is only $2k, I can't spend $200 on a relay. I'm not knocking it, but in my situation, that's 10% of the entire car.

 

Starter solenoid are not continuous duty. They fail quickly but you can get a continuous duty solenoid from NAPA for pretty cheap just make sure it can handle the amps.

 

Yea, I was thinking about that. Gonna talk to my neighbor. He deals with starters and such for a living

 

Aren't safety features exempt from that rule?

 

Coming from the battery to the back of the car to a $40 Moroso switch, and then back to the fuse box with 8ga wire is as simple as it gets. Never have to worry about a relay or solenoid failing. Just run a wire from the battery to the starter, and then from the starter to the alternator.

 

just look for a 200amp 30vdc solid state relay and use that...you can get one for around $150-$180

 

Yea, kill switch, rollbar, racing harness, sfi bell housings, driveshaft loops, etc are all exempt from the race budget. Its just hard for me to justify a $200 relay in a $2k car. Then again, there is one douche that shows up with a ball bearing turbo every year. Luckily he never gets close to winning.

The tech guy was also complaining that my battery could come loose and hit the fuel filler tube. I think I'm just going to put it behind the bumper and put the switch in the smaller fuse box wire as said a few posts up. I don't know why I didn't think about that.

 

its kinda a trade off.....either you run thick heavy expensive wire from the front to the back or use a relay and use cheap wire to the back. i would almost bet the relay and the thin wire to the back would be less weight then heavy wire front to back.

 

I'm not too concerned with weight. This car is 2klbs even with me in it. Well, it was last year. It's getting a rollbar this year so I can go faster than 11.50. It's going to take 11.30-10.99 to win 2013. I can shave a little weight in other areas if I need to. It's more the cost on a cheap *** car.

 

I bought a aluminum battery box from Jeg's and put the battery where the spare tire went in my CRX. I put the kill switch where the key went for the hatch. Works out great and I didn't have to cut anything on the car except the black plastic housing on the taillight assembly.

 

What I'm using, first setup in this link:

http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...nnect-switches

I didn't want the added weight of the larger gauge wiring, nor did I want to run the larger wire.

I believe Fork Lifts also use a constant duty solenoid as well for their kill? Not sure, but I've heard of people piecing them together using forklift solenoids. I figured I'd save the headache and buy it all as one setup.

 

That's not bad. NHRA is cool with that little toggle switch though?

 

Dont know have yet to use it at the track - but its no different than running the T1 Kill switch setup IMO. Our local track just checks that it kills the car and if it does that, I don't see why it would be a problem as that is the ultimate goal? It doesn't say in the rules that there has to be large gauge wiring ran to the back of the car with the larger style switch. So my assumption is going to be if it gets the job done, it works. I'll argue it if I have to, but its obvious that is the reason for this device.

If worst comes to worst, I'll just buy a bigger style switch and wire it in the same and they'd be none the wiser...

When I do install it, I also plan on running another interrupt switch in line that I can throw from inside the cabin just in case I need to kill it. I believe (its been a couple months since I looked at the instructions) all you are doing is interrupting the ground to the relay which then kills the positive to the fuse box and from the alternator.

 

Yea, I was thinking the same thing on the bigger switch. Only reason the small switch seems like an issue is the rules say it has to be a metal lever and not plastic. I know that toggle switch has a metal lever, but being so small I could see them being concerned with breaking it in a hurry.

 

Not in the northeast.... I had to change mine this year because of Englishtown and Epping. Now I have the all metal (beefy) switch on my T1 setup.