drumking15

wow talk about a nice piece of work...that thing is gorgeous

Boostfed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Danny_EJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im pretty sure you need a working reverse when competing lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

You do need reverse, the original poster was incorrect by saying the Phantom Grip and Otehr Tranny Cradles elimates reverse, it eliminates 5th gear. I have broke 2 4th gears since I had teh Phantom Grip cradle in SO I took it out and put 5th back in. I cannot comment on Liberty's cradle though though Eggum is succesfully using it

I would like to know what Tony1 and Mat Keller are using in their trannies, as far as I know stock 5th gear is still in place and possibly Gearspeed synchros only?

tony1

Completely stock gsr trans with a Quaife diff. Stock syncros in it the first half of the season and it started to get tough to get in 3rd. Rebuilt it with Gear Speed carbon syncros.

MrParks

i would have to say clutches is what does the pure damage imo i have been thinking about it all week long and i cant see why the tranny is an issue for me.

what lb pressure plates do comp clutches have for the twin applications? or do they go by torque ratings ?

HybridKOOP

Aside from the weight disadvantage, what other disadvantages would steel bring to the plate vs. aluminum for cases/bells?

MrParks

prolly about 75lbs of pure weight


i dont think there is any advantages in doing steel

tony1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrParks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would have to say clutches is what does the pure damage imo i have been thinking about it all week long and i cant see why the tranny is an issue for me.

what lb pressure plates do comp clutches have for the twin applications? or do they go by torque ratings ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>


You're going in the right direction. I don't know spring pressures or anything on the Comp. twins. I know they'll hold all you can put to them, but i don't know a number. I know Chuck had to put one in at a race, twin metallic, and it held 3 passes at 900+hp. I can tell you this, if it's not a street car anymore, invest the money in a carbon/carbon clutch, we all run the Competition Clutch twin disk carbon/carbon 5.5".

tony1

Mine is still 5 speed. The clutch gets heated up plenty in the burnout. Dumping it in 3rd gear puts some heat in it!

MrParks

sorry to bring this up but i have been watching alot of the cars vids, basically doing some detective work, and seems to me that your car slips the clutch alot at the initial drop at the tree, this seems to help a ton, but does it effect 60' considerably ? or about transitioning into the next gear does it allow (soft engagement as well) how hard/soft in the pedal in comp clutches? i would think it would be near close to stock pressure for 5.5"

tony1

Mine doesn't slip a lot out of the hole, the tires spin a lot. The "slip" that you need to help keep the trans in these cars isn't what you are thinking. Where most twin disk clutches might fully lock up in 2-3 revolutions, you might be looking for it to lock up in 10-12 revolutions. Not even something you really feel, see, or hear, but it's happening. What you'll notice driving it when it's like this is just that it doesn't hit hard, it's soft on the launch and gear changes. The tilton flow control valve works one way, when you push the clutch in, it goes in fast, when you release, it releases through a small orifice. Doing this with a metallic clutch will usually over heat it, but with a carbon clutch, the coefficient of friction goes UP with heat, so it works good. The CC carbon has a very soft pedal, with pretty short clutch travel. It runs a little over $3k. If anyone is interested PM me for exact pricing and availability.

MrParks

well the smaller the diaphram the faster the en/disengagement, and quicker the heat time, which results in easier gear changes. but the biggest difference is

my guess is centrifical mass, the smaller the disc is, the quicker it will slow down thus easier to engage the next gear with scyncros.
my question is with a larger disc you can hold much more torque,simple answer...

but what if the discs its self were alot lighter or the same as the smaller dia. like 5.5" do you think shift quality would be the same?

example. 5.5" disc wieght 100grams
6.5" disc wieght 100grams
7.5" disc wieght 100grams

MrParks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> It runs a little over $3k. If anyone is interested PM me for exact pricing and availability.</TD></TR></TABLE>

cool does it come with its own set of gears as well...j/k

tony1

I don't even think shifting is a question. I can shift a big heavy single disk clutch just as easy as a light twin disk. Honda trannys are great when it comes to high rpm shifting. If everything is adjusted right in the clutch, you shouldn't have a problem shifting any of them.

MrParks

i kinda differ on that, the heavier disc is much harder to slow the shafts speed down at 11k then a light disc. doesnt mean you cant shift them they just get beat up alot faster which in turn means alot more maintenance

less costs the better

Big Teggie

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The tilton flow control valve works one way, when you push the clutch in, it goes in fast, when you release, it releases through a small orifice. Doing this with a metallic clutch will usually over heat it, but with a carbon clutch, the coefficient of friction goes UP with heat, so it works good.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So you would you recommend to not use it with a cerametalic clutch?

vaporboy12

i have used one with no problem but i really have made close to the power that tony is making yet i burnt one up but i got alot out of it

Boostfed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vaporboy12 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have used one with no problem but i really have made close to the power that tony is making yet i burnt one up but i got alot out of it</TD></TR></TABLE>

Used what Bret? The flow valve? The Carbon/Carbon Clutch? Curious

vaporboy12

the cerametalic twin brestfed the cerametalic twin hahah

tony1

So you already went through 1 metallic twin? Was this with the flow control valve, or without? How many passes do you think you got out of it?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrParks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i kinda differ on that, the heavier disc is much harder to slow the shafts speed down at 11k then a light disc. doesnt mean you cant shift them they just get beat up alot faster which in turn means alot more maintenance

less costs the better </TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree, in theory, a heavier disk is harder on the trans, but i haven't seen any significant differences in wear or ease of shifting with different disks on honda trannys.

vaporboy12

its was a exedy twin.. it lasted 14,000 miles worth of street driving i would say over 120+ dyno pulls and about 60-80 passes at the track before it finally let go power was over 400...no flow valve

vaporboy12

400 and 800hp not really relevant here but stating my 2 cents.. i would like to jump to a carbon/carbon this season but its just not in my budget

boostedh22a

Im running Tilton's flow control valve with there Twin Hybrid clutch and haven't seen any issues yet, short of one 1-2 shift that seemed to flare in RPM a few hundred. We will see this year though once I start launcing on the Hoosiers. I know I should upgrade to a carbon unit, but this one has worked good so far.

tony1

Gotcha, just wondering. Alot of people are under the impression that a twin disk will be the last clutch you buy, when in reality used in the wrong application (street use) it will wear out just like a single disk clutch. I don't have a lot of experience with all the brands, but Tilton is actually the worst from what i've seen as far as wear goes.

vaporboy12

i think i got alot out of mine couldnt have asked for more other than the exedy rebuild price tags haha

MrParks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Tilton is actually the worst from what i've seen as far as wear goes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
dont they use a 7.5 " discs, they should last quite a bit, but then again i have heard it all, ...