Hi members, hope you all are well

I bought this little wagon awhile ago. Reading up on the internet does not get me the knowledge needed.
Not even sure where I should make the thread as the 3rd gen does not fit in 4th gen category :/
So the first problem is the body. Its rusted bad where the control arm and torsion bar goes.
I will have to cut and weld to fix this before going on with any other plans.
Then I have a big question. Will the running gear go into another 3rd gen body? And or a Gen 1 CRX?
Second problem is the engine. I see no point in spending the needed time and money to make the EW engine run ok, the carb needs rebuilding.
I have no big power goals for this build. I will be swapping the engine to a D16Y7(buying a whole car as scrap) Yes I know the engine wont fit the gearbox but it might work with some engineering.

The build will be for having fun and learning. Working with and modifying cars is not new to me just working on a 3rd gen civic will be new to me.

 

Guys I can not find any info/pictures to do an engine swap for my wagon.
If I use the wire harness from a 1998 civic Y7 and Y8 head. Do I need to modify the ECU for immobilizer?
The wiring guide I should find on here under minime swap, What do I do with the O2 sensors? Space the downstream?

 

Got it running, was a fun project to get the engine to fit. The little wagon is transformed for sure! No more 1000 CVCC vacuum lines!
Have a few questions.
I need to set the timing but I do not have the service plug, only have the green plug. All the wires I need should be on that?
And then to wire the OBD port, wires will also be on the green plug?
I have rev cut at about 5500 my guess is its safe mode so no vtech?
The ECU is auto because my stupid *** did not know any better, even thought I could chip the P2P ECU lol.
Being an auto P2P I will never be able to get it performing right? Like no vtech ever no matter what I try?
Will I be able to get the tach to work?
Oh and the Vacuum lines for the 4WD actuator, I went and remove everything from the engine bay, what do I need fort hat to work again?

 

I got the timing set to 13, ground the brown wire on the green plug, and I noticed ping low low down at tiny throttle opening. Dont have a knock sensor. Will try better gas to see what it does.
Van was in a field for 20 years and still has some of the bad gas in the tank.
Also got the tachometer to work Rev cut is at 5200rpm
I can get a P2P ECU but its OBD2B, not sure if I want to go through the trouble to make that work.
Thinking of trying to find a cheap P06 or just go stand alone.

 

I removed the D16 as I was not pleased that I can not hear vtec engagement lol.
I got a B16 welded and redid the bolt pattern on the block to work on the 1986 tranny.
What I ended up with was I used a S2000 flywheel machined by me to fit a D16 clutch with modified D16 clutch plate to work on the 19 spline input shaft.
Had to machine the starter motor so that it reaches the ring gear, I could not move the ring gear because its a solid chromoly flywheel.
And then some custom mounting work.
Running it on a modified D16 dizzy and ecu for now.

 

Do you have pictures?

 

I uploaded some photos and video for you on google drive
Google drive 1986 B16 4WD
I am doing the coolant system this weekend

 

I see it and yet I still don't believe it. Holy cow that's a lot of effort. I applaud your work there.

 

Took it for its first drive! And everything works
Clutch feels great, just the one solid mount that is causing vibration on the car or its my flywheel/clutch assembly

 

Proper tuned vtec should be unnoticeable unless aftermarket cams and even with in most cases. That doesn't mean it couldn't be tuned to be more prominent. There's also many different types of VTEC. B16 VTEC is probably what you wanted.
the heck? That's one way to do it and kudos on ingenuity and gettin' 'er done but B series transmissions are way better and to do both you'd only need motor mounts, axles and ecu/wiring

Obd2a and obd2b ecus are not really modiable. Obd1 ecus are chippable and can be changed to manual or to add VTEC or IAB.

Honda Tuning Suite to tune them with an emulator like a Demon or something. Or, Hondata if you are hiring a tuner and live somewhere that isn't huge Honda thus tuner defaulting to well-known. But HTS is better and free.

For timing, the service connector simply locks the ECU timing to base so it doesn't jump around on you or add advance/retard corrections while trying to set timing. Once jumper is jumped, set timing to stock for engine (usually like 16.5°) - since ignition timing is adjusted by ecu, all you're trying to do is match physical timing with where the ECU thinks it is, so if the ECU thinks/asks for 18°, then the engine is at 18°.

I don't remember off-hand if OBD2 cars had the same jumper for doing timing, it may be an OBD1 thing but I could be wrong. If it's not present on OBD2 then you'll have to check the service manual for a vehicle with the relevant engine.

Also, service manuals from Honda are awesome with many available by googling for them, make use of this valuable resource.

Welcome to Honda world, you weren't lying about working on cars before and getting it done - bolting a D trans to a B like that is by far one of the most bat-****-insane-looney things I've ever seen or heard in my Honda experience. But as odd as it is, I can only give you props for getting in there and making it work.

Future reference as well, you'll get more/better responses in the correct categories; this topic is specifically for AWD drivetrain stuff, not even AWD cars themselves and thus it's a more specialized topic and thus there's a lot less traffic here.

And yes, please, PLEASE post pics, we're all curious about your Frankenstein for sure - I don't think anyone else has done this. Also curious how it's going still - if your trans isn't *perfectly* centered, you're prob gonna eventually break something.

D trans on a B. Insane. At least you got a B in there now! but definitely consider a B trans as they're generally better in every way and, assuming your machine work to get the D trans on isn't irreversible or incompatible, you should only really need b trans, motor/trans mount and misc (clutch, flywheel, starter, etc)

insane! But cool and different. Totally feels like the kinda ingenuity people had to pull off before everything was googlable.

Pics plz!

 

Thanks :D People on facebook think iam on meth and have no clue of what I am doing lol.
Here are some updated footage
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...NM?usp=sharing