Would this work?
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: san antonio, texas, US
Would this work?
Ok this is basically two qeustions in one forum, first question is would it be poossible to have an extra car battery in the trunk for the amp to wire to and still have the original battery under the hood? Would the battery power my amp correctly? Also my amp gets really hot somtimes and when I turn up the volume the subs cut out when there supposed to hit. And sumtimes when I turn up the volume the amp blows its fuse and i blow the accesory.
Old Fart
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,173
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From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: (91DroppedHatch)
Yes you can install a second batt., it can be wired parallel with the stock batt. or an isolator can be used, [still a parallel hook up] you would have to look at upgrading your alt. as another batt. to charge is more load for the alt.
Another thing you should do is have the same batt. front and rear, adding bigger or more batt. does not give you more power only longer play time without motor running, or if using an isolator, be able to run down the "amp" batt., [motor not running] and still be able to start car.
If your amp overheats it can be because of a few things, the most common is low impedance, if the subs, or DVC sub are wired in parallel the impedance drops, EG: 2 4 ohm subs wired in parallel is a 2 ohm load for the amp, and if the amp is not stable below 4 ohms, it will get hot, the louder you play it the hotter it will get, faster, and if the amp has a "thermo" switch, once it reaches temp. it will shut down.
That said, you say it also blows fuses, the second most common reason for amps to overheat, is shorted out speakers, and if the short is is at the end of the speakers throw, problem would be most apparent at louder volumes, and if it's a dead short at the very end of the speakers throw, it could very well blow the fuse on the amp.
The 3rd most common reason for amps overheating is not enough currant, [as weired as that sounds] an amp that is not getting enough power will start distorting, [clipping] a lot sooner then one that does have enough power, overheating is only one of the symptoms, and results, the amp will not produce it's rated power before clipping, and when it clips the output from the amp is DC so damage can be done to the speakers that the amp is driving, [burning the VC causing it to delaminate and short out.
Low current to amp in my experience is almost always caused by poor grounding.
I would need more info to have a better idea of what the problem is, make and model of sub/s and amp, how the subs are wired, how the amp is wired what is it grounded to, have you "beefed up the ground from the batt. to car chassis?
94
Another thing you should do is have the same batt. front and rear, adding bigger or more batt. does not give you more power only longer play time without motor running, or if using an isolator, be able to run down the "amp" batt., [motor not running] and still be able to start car.
If your amp overheats it can be because of a few things, the most common is low impedance, if the subs, or DVC sub are wired in parallel the impedance drops, EG: 2 4 ohm subs wired in parallel is a 2 ohm load for the amp, and if the amp is not stable below 4 ohms, it will get hot, the louder you play it the hotter it will get, faster, and if the amp has a "thermo" switch, once it reaches temp. it will shut down.
That said, you say it also blows fuses, the second most common reason for amps to overheat, is shorted out speakers, and if the short is is at the end of the speakers throw, problem would be most apparent at louder volumes, and if it's a dead short at the very end of the speakers throw, it could very well blow the fuse on the amp.
The 3rd most common reason for amps overheating is not enough currant, [as weired as that sounds] an amp that is not getting enough power will start distorting, [clipping] a lot sooner then one that does have enough power, overheating is only one of the symptoms, and results, the amp will not produce it's rated power before clipping, and when it clips the output from the amp is DC so damage can be done to the speakers that the amp is driving, [burning the VC causing it to delaminate and short out.
Low current to amp in my experience is almost always caused by poor grounding.
I would need more info to have a better idea of what the problem is, make and model of sub/s and amp, how the subs are wired, how the amp is wired what is it grounded to, have you "beefed up the ground from the batt. to car chassis?
94
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 135
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From: san antonio, texas, US
Re: (fcm)
thanx for the help guys, well I have two 12" audiobahn subs,
Audiobahn AW1251T, and one Kenwood KAC-7202 amp, and i have the subs bridged. And the power and ground wire are 4 guage.
Audiobahn AW1251T, and one Kenwood KAC-7202 amp, and i have the subs bridged. And the power and ground wire are 4 guage.
Old Fart
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,173
Likes: 18
From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: (91DroppedHatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91DroppedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanx for the help guys, well I have two 12" audiobahn subs,
Audiobahn AW1251T, and one Kenwood KAC-7202 amp, and i have the subs bridged. And the power and ground wire are 4 guage.
</TD></TR></TABLE>The Kenwood KAC-7202 is a 2ch amp that is probably not stable below 4 ohms when bridged, and definitely not below 2 ohms [although the specs say it's 460W x 1 when bridged at 14.4V it does not give at what ohms] and the CEA 2006 standard does not give any bridged output. and if you have the VCs and the subs wired in parallel that would be a 1 ohm load, and that would be your problem.
You could wire the VCs of each sub in series to give you an 8 ohm impedance and then wire the subs in parallel to bring the impedance back to 4 ohms, the amp would see a 4 ohm load, and the overheating problem would be solved, however I don't think the amps output would be much more then around 300W rms, not enough for 2 x 400W rms subs.
The KAC-7202 is really the wrong amp for the subs you have, a better amp would be the KAC-9152D a 900W at 14.4V into a 1 ohm load mono block sub amp. 94
Audiobahn AW1251T, and one Kenwood KAC-7202 amp, and i have the subs bridged. And the power and ground wire are 4 guage.
</TD></TR></TABLE>The Kenwood KAC-7202 is a 2ch amp that is probably not stable below 4 ohms when bridged, and definitely not below 2 ohms [although the specs say it's 460W x 1 when bridged at 14.4V it does not give at what ohms] and the CEA 2006 standard does not give any bridged output. and if you have the VCs and the subs wired in parallel that would be a 1 ohm load, and that would be your problem.
You could wire the VCs of each sub in series to give you an 8 ohm impedance and then wire the subs in parallel to bring the impedance back to 4 ohms, the amp would see a 4 ohm load, and the overheating problem would be solved, however I don't think the amps output would be much more then around 300W rms, not enough for 2 x 400W rms subs.
The KAC-7202 is really the wrong amp for the subs you have, a better amp would be the KAC-9152D a 900W at 14.4V into a 1 ohm load mono block sub amp.
94
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