Whats the diff. between 2 ohms and 4 ohms?
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Whats the diff. between 2 ohms and 4 ohms?
whats the diff. between 2 ohms and 4 ohms on these two subs?
2 ohm :
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-a...WE352
4 ohm :
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-a...WE354
Which is the better buy?
Thanks in advance guys
2 ohm :
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-a...WE352
4 ohm :
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-a...WE354
Which is the better buy?
Thanks in advance guys
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Re: Whats the diff. between 2 ohms and 4 ohms? (blue2k1civic)
The difference is only the amount of resistance they have. Normally amps want to see 2 ohms from subs. You can use either subs but if you buy the 4 ohm subs you should bridge it. You won't have to bridge the 2 ohm sub, you can just hook it up to one of the channels.
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Re: Whats the diff. between 2 ohms and 4 ohms? (blue2k1civic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC VTEC turbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The difference is only the amount of resistance they have. Normally amps want to see 2 ohms from subs. You can use either subs but if you buy the 4 ohm subs you should bridge it. You won't have to bridge the 2 ohm sub, you can just hook it up to one of the channels.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, I have a 1000 watt amp ( http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...13120 )
Which sub would you recommend with the amp I have? thanks
Well, I have a 1000 watt amp ( http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...13120 )
Which sub would you recommend with the amp I have? thanks
Old Fart
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,173
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From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: Whats the diff. between 2 ohms and 4 ohms? (blue2k1civic)
One is a DVC 2ohm and the other is a DVC 4ohm, ohms is the measurement of resistance of the VCs a 2ohm VC has less resistance then a 4ohm VC, a very simplistic explanation, how it relates to you will depend on how many subs you want to use and the amp you want to use to run them, the 2ohm sub can be wired to 1 or 4ohms the 4ohm sub can be wired to 2 or 8ohms add more subs, you get more options for wiring them.
Although there are amps out there that are stable at 1ohm or less most are stable at 2ohms or higher, mono [amps] most 2ch amps are not stable below 4ohms when bridged into mono.
The lower the impedance, [ohms] the hotter the amp will run and the more current it will need and with most amps when you half the load, [ohms] you double the watts of the amp. eg. a 100watt rms into 4ohms mono amp will make 200watts into a 2ohm load and if stable 400watts into a 1ohm load, although this sounds good, 400watts out of a 100watt amp, there are other things that happen as I have explained above ,you need more current, the amp runs hotter, along with you lose linearity, and dampening and you shorten the life of the amp, and although low imp. loads on an amp look good on paper, anything less the 4ohms is not worth it IMO and in some cases an 8ohm load is best of all.
94
Although there are amps out there that are stable at 1ohm or less most are stable at 2ohms or higher, mono [amps] most 2ch amps are not stable below 4ohms when bridged into mono.
The lower the impedance, [ohms] the hotter the amp will run and the more current it will need and with most amps when you half the load, [ohms] you double the watts of the amp. eg. a 100watt rms into 4ohms mono amp will make 200watts into a 2ohm load and if stable 400watts into a 1ohm load, although this sounds good, 400watts out of a 100watt amp, there are other things that happen as I have explained above ,you need more current, the amp runs hotter, along with you lose linearity, and dampening and you shorten the life of the amp, and although low imp. loads on an amp look good on paper, anything less the 4ohms is not worth it IMO and in some cases an 8ohm load is best of all.
94
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Re: Whats the diff. between 2 ohms and 4 ohms? (fcm)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One is a DVC 2ohm and the other is a DVC 4ohm, ohms is the measurement of resistance of the VCs a 2ohm VC has less resistance then a 4ohm VC, a very simplistic explanation, how it relates to you will depend on how many subs you want to use and the amp you want to use to run them, the 2ohm sub can be wired to 1 or 4ohms the 4ohm sub can be wired to 2 or 8ohms add more subs, you get more options for wiring them.
Although there are amps out there that are stable at 1ohm or less most are stable at 2ohms or higher, mono [amps] most 2ch amps are not stable below 4ohms when bridged into mono.
The lower the impedance, [ohms] the hotter the amp will run and the more current it will need and with most amps when you half the load, [ohms] you double the watts of the amp. eg. a 100watt rms into 4ohms mono amp will make 200watts into a 2ohm load and if stable 400watts into a 1ohm load, although this sounds good, 400watts out of a 100watt amp, there are other things that happen as I have explained above ,you need more current, the amp runs hotter, along with you lose linearity, and dampening and you shorten the life of the amp, and although low imp. loads on an amp look good on paper, anything less the 4ohms is not worth it IMO and in some cases an 8ohm load is best of all. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh i gotcha, Well I have a mono 1000 watt amp ( Hifonics Brutus ) http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...13120 . I had the 2 ohm MB Quart 15" subwoofer and after about a month of owning it the sub blew ( or at least I think it did) I never even turned it up or anything, I was in the process of breaking it in, and it just stopped playing. I checked all of the wiring and everything is perfect, the amp is getting power and everything, but the sub doesn't hit at all. The only thing I can think of is that something inside the amp broke/got lose, or it blew because I never got it tuned.
I'm looking to get either the same sub or something diff. What 15" subs would you guys recommend? I want something that would work with the amp I have, thanks in advance again guys! 
Although there are amps out there that are stable at 1ohm or less most are stable at 2ohms or higher, mono [amps] most 2ch amps are not stable below 4ohms when bridged into mono.
The lower the impedance, [ohms] the hotter the amp will run and the more current it will need and with most amps when you half the load, [ohms] you double the watts of the amp. eg. a 100watt rms into 4ohms mono amp will make 200watts into a 2ohm load and if stable 400watts into a 1ohm load, although this sounds good, 400watts out of a 100watt amp, there are other things that happen as I have explained above ,you need more current, the amp runs hotter, along with you lose linearity, and dampening and you shorten the life of the amp, and although low imp. loads on an amp look good on paper, anything less the 4ohms is not worth it IMO and in some cases an 8ohm load is best of all.
94</TD></TR></TABLE>Oh i gotcha, Well I have a mono 1000 watt amp ( Hifonics Brutus ) http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...13120 . I had the 2 ohm MB Quart 15" subwoofer and after about a month of owning it the sub blew ( or at least I think it did) I never even turned it up or anything, I was in the process of breaking it in, and it just stopped playing. I checked all of the wiring and everything is perfect, the amp is getting power and everything, but the sub doesn't hit at all. The only thing I can think of is that something inside the amp broke/got lose, or it blew because I never got it tuned.
I'm looking to get either the same sub or something diff. What 15" subs would you guys recommend? I want something that would work with the amp I have, thanks in advance again guys!
Old Fart
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,173
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From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: Whats the diff. between 2 ohms and 4 ohms? (SOHC VTEC turbo)
Originally Posted by SOHC VTEC turbo
The difference is only the amount of resistance they have. Normally amps want to see 2 ohms from subs. You can use either subs but if you buy the 4 ohm subs you should bridge it. You won't have to bridge the 2 ohm sub, you can just hook it up to one of the channels.
94
Originally Posted by blue2k1civic
Oh i gotcha, Well I have a mono 1000 watt amp ( Hifonics Brutus ) http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...13120 . I had the 2 ohm MB Quart 15" subwoofer and after about a month of owning it the sub blew ( or at least I think it did) I never even turned it up or anything, I was in the process of breaking it in, and it just stopped playing. I checked all of the wiring and everything is perfect, the amp is getting power and everything, but the sub doesn't hit at all. The only thing I can think of is that something inside the amp broke/got lose, or it blew because I never got it tuned. I'm looking to get either the same sub or something diff. What 15" subs would you guys recommend? I want something that would work with the amp I have, thanks in advance again guys!
If the VCs are wired in series, you would have a 4ohm load and you would have a 250W amp running a 600W sub, and if as you say you have not turned it up I can't see how you could have blown the sub, I would think there is something else wrong.
If you wired the VCs in parallel you would have a 1ohm load and you would have a 1000W amp running a 600W sub, again if as you say you have not turned it up, I would find it hard to believe that the sub is blown.
However there are other things that have to be taken into account, like power, how much power was the amp getting. A 250W amp mounted 8 to 12 ft. from the batt. would need an 8ga power and ground cable and an 8ga ground from batt. neg. to chassis and chassis to motor/alt. to work properly and a stock alt. would be just big enough to supply it with the current it needs.
On the other hand a 1000W amp mounted in the same place would need 4ga power and ground up to 8 ft and 2ga if longer then 8 ft. and the same gauge to beef up the grounds at the batt. to chassis, chassis to motor/alt, you would also need an alt. that puts out 160A or more.
Now some amp manufactures will fudge the numbers, and no matter what the amp specs say, for that amp to make 1000W RMS it would need 160A of current going to it, so it would also need a 160A fuse in it
, now amps are dynamic, or I should say music is dynamic, no amp, no matter what kind is always making its rated RMS output, the output depends on the input, and unless a steady tone is inputted, the output of the amp is constantly changing, even to the point of going over the rated output of the amp "peak power" and that is a whole other story.Let me ask you this, what size is the fuse in your amp, what size is the power and ground cable you are using, have the grounds under the hood been beefed up, and how are the VCs on the sub wired, series or parallel, also, what kind of fuse are you using on the power cable by the batt?
Give me the info above and I will be able to help you better, you will have to remove the sub from it's box to test it properly, also what size is the box, [how many cu. ft.] the MB 15" needs to be in a relatively small box.
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Re: Whats the diff. between 2 ohms and 4 ohms? (fcm)
Originally Posted by fcm
What? 94
Well before you go and plug any new sub into that amp, you need to find out what went wrong, I assume it was the Discus DWF-354 15" DVC 2ohm 600W sub, and your amp is 250W rms into 4ohms.
If the VCs are wired in series, you would have a 4ohm load and you would have a 250W amp running a 600W sub, and if as you say you have not turned it up I can't see how you could have blown the sub, I would think there is something else wrong.
If you wired the VCs in parallel you would have a 1ohm load and you would have a 1000W amp running a 600W sub, again if as you say you have not turned it up, I would find it hard to believe that the sub is blown.
However there are other things that have to be taken into account, like power, how much power was the amp getting. A 250W amp mounted 8 to 12 ft. from the batt. would need an 8ga power and ground cable and an 8ga ground from batt. neg. to chassis and chassis to motor/alt. to work properly and a stock alt. would be just big enough to supply it with the current it needs.
On the other hand a 1000W amp mounted in the same place would need 4ga power and ground up to 8 ft and 2ga if longer then 8 ft. and the same gauge to beef up the grounds at the batt. to chassis, chassis to motor/alt, you would also need an alt. that puts out 160A or more.
Now some amp manufactures will fudge the numbers, and no matter what the amp specs say, for that amp to make 1000W RMS it would need 160A of current going to it, so it would also need a 160A fuse in it , now amps are dynamic, or I should say music is dynamic, no amp, no matter what kind is always making its rated RMS output, the output depends on the input, and unless a steady tone is inputted, the output of the amp is constantly changing, even to the point of going over the rated output of the amp "peak power" and that is a whole other story.
Let me ask you this, what size is the fuse in your amp, what size is the power and ground cable you are using, have the grounds under the hood been beefed up, and how are the VCs on the sub wired, series or parallel, also, what kind of fuse are you using on the power cable by the batt?
Give me the info above and I will be able to help you better, you will have to remove the sub from it's box to test it properly, also what size is the box, [how many cu. ft.] the MB 15" needs to be in a relatively small box. 94
94Well before you go and plug any new sub into that amp, you need to find out what went wrong, I assume it was the Discus DWF-354 15" DVC 2ohm 600W sub, and your amp is 250W rms into 4ohms.
If the VCs are wired in series, you would have a 4ohm load and you would have a 250W amp running a 600W sub, and if as you say you have not turned it up I can't see how you could have blown the sub, I would think there is something else wrong.
If you wired the VCs in parallel you would have a 1ohm load and you would have a 1000W amp running a 600W sub, again if as you say you have not turned it up, I would find it hard to believe that the sub is blown.
However there are other things that have to be taken into account, like power, how much power was the amp getting. A 250W amp mounted 8 to 12 ft. from the batt. would need an 8ga power and ground cable and an 8ga ground from batt. neg. to chassis and chassis to motor/alt. to work properly and a stock alt. would be just big enough to supply it with the current it needs.
On the other hand a 1000W amp mounted in the same place would need 4ga power and ground up to 8 ft and 2ga if longer then 8 ft. and the same gauge to beef up the grounds at the batt. to chassis, chassis to motor/alt, you would also need an alt. that puts out 160A or more.
Now some amp manufactures will fudge the numbers, and no matter what the amp specs say, for that amp to make 1000W RMS it would need 160A of current going to it, so it would also need a 160A fuse in it
, now amps are dynamic, or I should say music is dynamic, no amp, no matter what kind is always making its rated RMS output, the output depends on the input, and unless a steady tone is inputted, the output of the amp is constantly changing, even to the point of going over the rated output of the amp "peak power" and that is a whole other story.Let me ask you this, what size is the fuse in your amp, what size is the power and ground cable you are using, have the grounds under the hood been beefed up, and how are the VCs on the sub wired, series or parallel, also, what kind of fuse are you using on the power cable by the batt?
Give me the info above and I will be able to help you better, you will have to remove the sub from it's box to test it properly, also what size is the box, [how many cu. ft.] the MB 15" needs to be in a relatively small box.
94. I'm not sure why it stopped, but I got rid of the sub so I can't test it out, I ran the amp on my buddies system and it worked, so it wasn't that. I noticed you have been in this game for 30 years, and you know your **** very well Do you know any sites/stores I could sell my box and amp to, just curious if theres anyone that buys that kind of stuff, but anyway, I was looking to get 2 12's next, what amp, box (vented? or not?) and subs would you recommend? I want something that hits but won't burn a huge hole in my wallet. thanks for everything btw, you've been a huge help
Old Fart
Joined: May 2004
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From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: Whats the diff. between 2 ohms and 4 ohms? (blue2k1civic)
As I am in Canada, I can't help you much other then to say you will get more for your stuff if you sell it yourself.
As for what to buy for subs and an amp, there is such a wide range of pricing for amps and subs, and it would depend on what you mean by "to big a hole" what I can say is you really can't go wrong with JL Audio subs and amps, http://www.jlaudio.com but you should go to your local car audio shops and check out their demo boards, have a listen and see what you like.
As for box's, that will depend on the subs you buy. 94
As for what to buy for subs and an amp, there is such a wide range of pricing for amps and subs, and it would depend on what you mean by "to big a hole" what I can say is you really can't go wrong with JL Audio subs and amps, http://www.jlaudio.com but you should go to your local car audio shops and check out their demo boards, have a listen and see what you like.
As for box's, that will depend on the subs you buy.
94
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From: Beavertown, OR
Re: Whats the diff. between 2 ohms and 4 ohms? (fcm)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The lower the impedance, [ohms] the hotter the amp will run and the more current it will need and with most amps when you half the load, [ohms] you double the watts of the amp. eg. a 100watt rms into 4ohms mono amp will make 200watts into a 2ohm load and if stable 400watts into a 1ohm load, although this sounds good, 400watts out of a 100watt amp, there are other things that happen as I have explained above ,you need more current, the amp runs hotter, along with you lose linearity, and dampening and you shorten the life of the amp, and although low imp. loads on an amp look good on paper, anything less the 4ohms is not worth it IMO and in some cases an 8ohm load is best of all. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>If an amp is designed to run a 4ohm load then this holds true. Most amplifiers have to be designed to run a wide range of loads so there are trade offs. If an amplifier is designed to run low impedences this doesn't hold true, well kinda. To complicated to explain..............buy an amp that is intended to run the impedence you want to run.
No one asked what kind of box he is running. this will effect the power handling of the sub. And if the volume wasn't turned up, i would suspect the box.
94</TD></TR></TABLE>If an amp is designed to run a 4ohm load then this holds true. Most amplifiers have to be designed to run a wide range of loads so there are trade offs. If an amplifier is designed to run low impedences this doesn't hold true, well kinda. To complicated to explain..............buy an amp that is intended to run the impedence you want to run.No one asked what kind of box he is running. this will effect the power handling of the sub. And if the volume wasn't turned up, i would suspect the box.
Old Fart
Joined: May 2004
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From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: Whats the diff. between 2 ohms and 4 ohms? (nsxxtreme)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If an amp is designed to run a 4ohm load then this holds true. Most amplifiers have to be designed to run a wide range of loads so there are trade offs. If an amplifier is designed to run low impedences this doesn't hold true, well kinda. To complicated to explain..............buy an amp that is intended to run the impedence you want to run.
No one asked what kind of box he is running. this will effect the power handling of the sub. And if the volume wasn't turned up, i would suspect the box.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> also what size is the box, [how many cu. ft.] the MB 15" needs to be in a relatively small box. 94 </TD></TR></TABLE> Oh yes I did. 94
No one asked what kind of box he is running. this will effect the power handling of the sub. And if the volume wasn't turned up, i would suspect the box.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> also what size is the box, [how many cu. ft.] the MB 15" needs to be in a relatively small box. 94 </TD></TR></TABLE> Oh yes I did.
94
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From: Beavertown, OR
Re: Whats the diff. between 2 ohms and 4 ohms? (fcm)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Oh yes I did. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>
Didn't see that, but was more referring to being ported or not ported. Seeing how today people just buy speakers and stuff them in premade boxes. Ported enclosure suffer the worst if not done correctly but sealed are also affected.
Oh yes I did.
94</TD></TR></TABLE>Didn't see that,
but was more referring to being ported or not ported. Seeing how today people just buy speakers and stuff them in premade boxes. Ported enclosure suffer the worst if not done correctly but sealed are also affected.
Old Fart
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From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: Whats the diff. between 2 ohms and 4 ohms? (nsxxtreme)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Didn't see that, but was more referring to being ported or not ported. Seeing how today people just buy speakers and stuff them in premade boxes. Ported enclosure suffer the worst if not done correctly but sealed are also affected.</TD></TR></TABLE>IC, MB Quart recommends a 1.5 cuft sealed box for this sub, no other type of box is recommended, although another type may work.
Didn't see that,
but was more referring to being ported or not ported. Seeing how today people just buy speakers and stuff them in premade boxes. Ported enclosure suffer the worst if not done correctly but sealed are also affected.</TD></TR></TABLE>IC, MB Quart recommends a 1.5 cuft sealed box for this sub, no other type of box is recommended, although another type may work.
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