Running into low money problems and might be able to squeeze by so Im just wonderring. I have 2 Audiobahns AW1206T subs (2200max/1100rms) and 2 Clarion DPX 1000.2 Amp. I was going to put an amp to each sub @1ohm so they both get 1000 watts pushin em. Im only a sound guy. I just want it to be loud and Im not looking for numbers. Will my system still be loud with just ONE of the Clarion amps pushing both? Its still 500 to each sub, or should I hookup both?

I can sell my amp locally for 400CAD. And that would help pay for some misc stuff.

Also wonderring if I use the second amp will my OEM crx alternator (55-60amp) be able to hold up? I do have a Optima Yellow Top so i think that would help, beause if my oem alt wont hold up then I wont even bother using the second amp.

Thanks,
Kevin

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RiceRacist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im only a sound guy. I just want it to be loud and Im not looking for numbers. Will my system still be loud with just ONE of the Clarion amps pushing both? Its still 500 to each sub, or should I hookup both?

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If you are an sq guy, then 1000 watts for the pair is more than enough. That would satisfy most bassheads also

 

Anyone else agree that one of the subs would be plenty to push the pair and wouldnt be to much of an increase if I used the second. It would really help if I could sell it and make some money but if I am going to see a nice "loudness" increase then i will use it for sure and if I am sure my alt will hold up even with the addition of the yellow top

 

Your "loudness" increase will be 3db using both.

 

your yellow top won't help your alt. one bit! Your alt. supports your system, then it hits your battery.

Keep just the one amp, but check to make sure that the coil config will still be appropriate.

Unless you want to upgrade the alternator and IF those amps actually make rated power, you should go with just one. Plus, port the box and get some free volume!

 

Box is already ported and takes up most of the room in the rear of my gutted crx. So I wouldnt see a huge difference from adding the second amp? I know my oem alt can hold one amp because my friend has the same amp ( i sold him ) on the same alt and its holding up fine. I guess Ill just continue to try and sell my amp on here like I have for a week. Only $225

 

Rcurley brought up a point I forgot about. One 1000 watt amp will suck your electrical system dry. The crx's have 70 amp alternators I believe. Most 1000 watt amps will pull at least 100 amps.

 

I really need some help here then. My oem alt is shot and squeels like mad so I think its done. I was just going to grab from from a junkyard. I dont think a 1000 watt amp would need a 100amp alt. Ive seen a guy with a 99 ex civic run a jl 1200.1 amp pushing 2 w7's and his alt held up fine. I dont think 1 amp would be able to drain my system if I used it for more than 1 hour consecutively.

Can anyone back either of our statements for 1amp?

 

This subject has been discussed many times here already. You will get dimming and other problems. If you don't use the full 1000 watts then it does not matter. For people that push their systems, you will notice the symptoms. Several people on this board, including myself, own 1kw rms amps. Tegs have 90 amp alts, and I still noticed the affects.

PS, your friend must have a jbl 1200.1, jl does not make an amp with that model.

My suggestion is to make a 0 gauge wire run to the amp location. Hook up one amp. If it is not loud enough for you, then try both. If you try both, find a HO alt quickly.

 

How much would I be looking at for a 100+ amp alt. Is there any cars that are a direct replacment because the replacements Ive seen are all 150+ amps and cost about 280 canadian

 

I plan on getting the same sub, and running the Sony amp rated 1600 watts, but since the sub is 4ohm, it will only see 500watts. Think that should sound good? I will also be running a Visonik 500 watt amp on my s2000, will I run into battery problems?
gmoore

 

So how big of an alt would I need to run one dpx 1000.2 amp, flip out tv, xbox and chassis neons?

 

Let's all have a quick discussion about automobile charging systems and how large drains on them work....anyone can correct me, I'm an ME not an EE.

Ok...

Lesson 1: When the car is running, the entire car runs off of the alternator, not the battery. This means that you should be getting approx 14.4V to your accessories (i.e. headunit, a/c, lights, amps, etc). Now your alternator can only provide so much current. Imagine a waterhose - the rate at which water comes out is the current.

Lesson 2: If your alternator can not provide enough current for your accessories, it looks to the battery for juice. This is why when you have large bass hits, your headlights dim. Instead of having 14.xV, now they have around 12v! The same thing will happen to your dash lights, etc.

Lesson 3: Extra or larger batteries will only help you when the car is off - not when the engine is running.

Lesson 4: While a HO alternator looks like a good solution, it isn't necessarily the answer. HO alternators typically do not do well at idle and make maximum current at around 2k rpm, so when you are sitting at idle, there is no improvement in your charging situation. Remember, the only way to rewind an alternator with a case as small as a Honda's is to add more windings, this means thinner wire....So sometimes at idle a stock alternator can perform better then an aftermarket one. What you really should do is look into fitting a GM small case alternator in there. But beware, you need to make sure that the alternator can withstand the high RPM duty that some of our cars need.

Lesson 5: Remember the ground is just as important as the power side! Some of your dimming issues (if you have them) can be remedied by replacing the "Magic 3." 1. Battery to chassis ground 2. Engine to chassis ground and 3. Alternator to Battery positive run. If your car is old (CRX) take a look at those cables, they are probably in need of some TLC. This can help to aleviate any problems.

If an Integra does have a 90A (not saying it doesn't, but I know a Civic Si doesn't and I'd be stoked to find out if it's plug and play ), you should look at maybe getting one of those from a junk yard. But again, remember the pully situation!

I hope that helps a bit. Look at the maximum current draw of your amplifier. Typically a 1kW amp (regardless of topology) will take about 100-120A of current at full bore. Thankfully, rarely does anyone really see that kind of power at sustained intervals, so plan on being able to supply about half that. But also keep in mind that your car's charging system was not designed for additional loads! (damn the audi and vw people and their 120A alternators from the factory).

So, can you run a 1kW amp from a factory alternator, yes you can. But make sure you have enough cable there. At minimum, a 4 ga run for just the 1kW amp, if you have more, a second 4 ga run or 0/1 is required. Anything smaller could be a fire hazard and you are looking at over 0.5V of voltage drop between the battery.

Sorry for the disjointed post...I'm busy installing horns...again!

 

Wow that really helped me understand **** but I still dont know if my oem alt will hold up. et me name things I will be occasionally using (not all at once)

1. 1kw amp
2. Audiobahn aw1206t subs
3. indash flip out tv and xbox
4. underbody neons

Now the part I really get is the dimming part. I can see my headunit dim with just the 6.5's I have. I am thinking of selling one of my clarion dpx 1000.2 amps just to buy a 150amp+ alt. Does anyone think I am going to far? Or doing the right thing? I am only 17 so its not like I have a lot of money, I barely have any, but may be able to afford this if I only sell my spare amp

 

Bump because this is important and Im selling my tv because of it. Im going to be getting a 150+ amp alt for around 300 canadian. I dont know if that is a good or bad deal but its on ebay and its the only one i can find. Is there a site that sells them for cheap?

 

What about a cap? Wouldn't using a 1 farad capacitor inline between the battery and the amp help with dimming issues?

Matt

 

Im honestly must be the newst guy to car audio stuff. Would I be able to buy a cap and just use that instead of upgrading my alternator? I could get an oem alternator for 20 bucks at a yard if I take the time to get it off. Will a cap allow me to use my oem alternator. Im selling my second amp so it will only need to run 1 1kw amp and the system will never bee played for more than 30min consecutively.
Becuase caps are faily cheap as well

 

start to think about your total investment. Now if you re-read my post above, you will see that there are some difficulties with HO alternators. Try to find an alternator for a teg or some other honda engine that may bolt up and provide an OEM-like performance for you.

If you have a shitty alternator now, get a working one for 20 and start there. While you are there, upgrade the underhood wiring. If you wiring is ****, then of course you will get dimming!! Replace it all with 4 ga.

You will probably find that a cap will not solve your issue. Get a healthy charging system first, then worry about add-ons.

And a capacitor can "work" with any system you want.

 

I did put on all new ground wires. I really dont know how to solve this problem. Right now I dont have an alt so Im up for anything.
What I want to do is buy a cap and a used oem alt becuase I just sold my tv and am going to sell my Clarion dpx 1000.2 amp, so Ill only have one amp running off of the alt and Im pretty sure my stock alt can handle one amp. I dont think any other oem honda would bolt right it.

Hopefully I can get a quick auction before an ebay auction ends. Will my oem be able to hold this one amp im throwing at it? WIll a cap help the oem alt last longer Thats all I need to know to solve my problem

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RiceRacist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Will my oem be able to hold this one amp im throwing at it? WIll a cap help the oem alt last longer Thats all I need to know to solve my problem</TD></TR></TABLE>

The alternator will not die instantly, if that is what you are asking.

The cap is just an additional drain on your system if you don't have enough amperage. I personally would spend the 100 bucks elsewhere, like grounding, better speakers, or beer