90sedan

Alright so i ran into a problem installing the viper 5000 in to my 90 civic sedan.


I am currently trying to hook up the wiring for the door triggers. I have the green wire from the alarms harness attached to the green red on both the drivers and passengers side "running boards". The problem is that when i arm the alarm with one of the doors open it will tell me that (via pager). But if i arm the alarm with the doors closed, and then open a door it will not notify me and it will not activate the alarm.

Could this be do to bad grounds?
Should i replace the door switches?
Am i not wiring everything correctly?


I am planning on replacing the door switches as they are old and starting to rust anyways. If that dosent fix the problem, whats the next likely thing?


Also does anybody know which wire i need to tap into to hook up the trunk trigger?


Obviously the sooner i fix this problem the better. This has just been a big pain in the ***. Thanks in advance. I hope that it is just something stupid that i forgot to do.





Modified by 89-civic-DX at 11:56 PM 12/28/2006

audioroach

A multimeter is your friend...remember that

door trigger is green/red trace: since all switches are common you only needed to
tap one for the alarm to function properly. Now the rusted/corroded switches can
effect performance..so change them out.

trunk/hatch trigger: green/black trace-can be found at trunk light wiring.

remember to always test wiring before trusting it.

fcm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by audioroach &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">door trigger is green/red trace: since all switches are common you only needed to tap one for the alarm to function properly. </TD></TR></TABLE> Not exactly correct, the drivers door pin is isolated from the pass. door pin, and rear doors, [4 door, the pass and rears are common] by the ICU, drivers door pin wire goes to the ICU, and the ICU supplies the ground for the dome light, if you connect to the drives door pin lead the alarm will not "see" the pass. door pin.

On the other hand, connecting both the drivers and pass. door pins is not correct either, [unless you isolate with diodes] if not, the key still in ign. and lights still on warning chimes will also be activated by pass. door.

To "catch" both doors connect to the green/red that goes to the dome light, [drivers kick panel] or at the plug in the fuse/relay box that goes to the instrument clusters door open light, [even if your Civic does not have a door ajar warning light, the wire is there]

The trunk/hatch trigger can also be found on the plug going to the instrument cluster, [trunk/hatch ajar warning light] even if you do not have the warning light, the wire is there.

I do agree that a multimeter is something you should have if your going to be doing anything with your cars electrical, $20 will get you one a RadioShack.

I also agree that if you are having any problems with the door pin switches, replace them, kind of pointless to have an alarm if a door can be opened without triggering the alarm, if opening a door does not turn on the dome light properly every time, it can not be depended on to trigger the alarm.

I also agree to test, [with multimeter] the wire before you connect into it, the green/red and green/black wire colors are used for things other then door pins and trunk/hatch switches, EG; there is also a green/black that is the fuel pump relays control lead from the ECM, the parking brake switch and brake fluid level switch leads are also green/red. 94

90sedan

Thanks guys. Those were the kind of repsonses that i was looking for.

I am picking up the door switches tomorrow.


If any other questions arise i'll let you know.

90sedan

Alright so i fixed those problems, both the door and trunk triggers work now.

I'm not sure if the wiring diaram that i was using is completly accurate....

Since im not 100% if it is or not and the next step is to hook up the factory power locks.

- Where would the best location be to connect to these?
- green/white is lock right?
- green/red is unlock?

Figured asking would save me some time under the dash.

Thanks once again.

fcm

That is correct... http://www.directwholesale.net...eID=3 they are a low current ground triggered, [type B].

Your Viper has door lock relays built in, [7 pin H3 door lock harness].
Ground to chassis the violet, violet/black and the black/white, [black/white is for dome light supervision].
You will not need the brown/black and green/black.
The blue/black is your unlock, goes to green/red.
The green/black is your lock, goes to green/white.

Good luck. 94


Modified by fcm at 4:58 PM 12/30/2006

90sedan

So the blue/black is both used to unlock and lock?

fcm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89-civic-DX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So the blue/black is both used to unlock and lock?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dohhh!!! edited, should read The green/black is your lock. 94

90sedan

I've had the hardest time trying to find these wires, even with a multimeter it seems that i have tested every green/white and green/red in the drivers kick panel and behind the fuse box.

so the dei diagram says the wires are green/white (-) type b and green/red (-) type b

To be completely honest i can only tell the difference in color between wires. I don't know how to tell if its type b.


Does anybody know the exact wires to use to connect the alarm to the power locks?

green/white and green/red
- with no stipe?
- with silver stripe?
- with single brown stripe?
- with double brown stripe?

Honestly i am at the point where i don't even feel like hooking them up since i've spent so much time already on them with no avail... bleh

fcm

They are type B, that is what Honda/Acura use, a low current ground, look for the harness that comes from the drives door, the green/white and green/red are in that harness, they are the leads coming from the pass door switch they will test as a weak 12V+ and test as ground when locking or unlocking, all the power door lock switch is doing is supplying a ground to the door lock relays.
The door lock module is located in the drivers door. 94

PS.. the wires are green, one with a white tracer, [stripe] and the other with a red tracer, the tracers run the full length of the wire, there may also be some silver or brown dots along the wire, but not nececeraly.

Also do not confuse the green/white lock wire with the green/white door trigger wire, also found in the drivers kick panel, it will also test as 12V+ if door is closed and dome light switched to door setting.

H22TC

for the door lock harness black/white for the domelight supervision wire you dont have to wire it right....

suspendedHatch

You ground it. But if you're extremely lazy, then no, you don't HAVE to.

H22TC

i thought so... thanks..

JasonGhostz

1999 Civic 2DR EX 5spd

Lojak (unknown model with built-in backup battery)
Viper 5000
DEI 506T (Glass Sensor)
DEI 507M (Tilt Sensor)
DEI 520T (Backup Battery Unit)
Bulldog T-Harness (HON-1)
2 Mini Piezo Sirens (eBay)

Sensors:
I currently have a KARR alarm with the 506T, 507M, and 520T all diode connected to the instant trigger wire. I'd like to use the 2 extra sensor ports on the 5000, but there are some little things I need to figure out. I salvaged two 4 pin harnesses, and the diagram for the 506T shows how to connect it to the V5000's brain...

Per the instructions in the thread linked below, I'll make the following connections:
507M: connect the red wires together, the orange wire to the harness' black wire, and the blue wire to the harness' green wire (opposite end of the harness from the red wire). De-pin the harness' blue wire (between the black and green wires).
506T: connect the red wires together, the black wires together, and the blue wire to the harness' green wire (opposite end of the harness from the red wire). De-pin the harness' blue wire (between the black and green wires).

http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/6438/si851330e2.jpg
https://honda-tech.com/forums/audio-security-video-27/dei-507m-tilt-viper-1002-wiring-2904801/

A - Is it correct that the harness' green wire for Sensor Port 2 will report as Zone 4, and the same harness wire for Sensor Port 3 will report as Zone 7?
B - How do I program the V5000 brain to know which type of sensor is plugged into which port? Do I need a Bitwriter?
C - Is it OK to use a coupler to extend the reach of the 506T's microphone wire? I don't want to weaken any signal sent from it to the unit, but I'd like to keep the alarm brains/units in the same general area, as opposed to extending the wires from the brain to the sensor.


Constant Power, Fuses, Sirens:
I have two lines of constant 12V going to the following destinations:
1: Lojak brain; 520T (--> KARR brain)
2: 506T; 507M; Siren Relay #30*; Aux Power (for other relays)
* - I have a relay with the following terminal connections:
30: 12V Constant
87: Piezo Siren Power Lead
85: KARR's Light Flash Output (+), conn'd to vehicles Parking Light circuit
86: KARR's GWA
(turning on the parking lights while my alarm is armed will cause the piezos to sound)
D - Any suggested changes on how I distribute power? Do the Lojak and 520T units absolutely need their own, separate power feeds, or am I ok here?
E - I've read on the CauseForAlarm instructions that I can send fused power to each of the sirens I have. Is there any advantage to maintaining my use of a Siren Relay for the mini Piezos instead?


Thanks in advance for the help. Many more questions to come...

JasonGhostz

JasonGhostz

I think there's a wire missing (White/Black)... so, just to clarify for my 99 Civic 2Dr EX (w/keyless):
H3/A: Black/White - ground to chassis
H3/B: White/Black - unused
H3/C: Green/Black - Green/White from Keyless
H3/D: Violet/Black - ground to chassis
H3/E: Brown/Black - unused
H3/F: Blue/Black - Green/Red from Keyless
H3/G: Violet - ground to chassis

F - The H3/B and H3/E should simply be unused and NOT grounded to chassis, correct? Any other corrections necessary to the above?

Starter, Ignition, Immobilizer, T-Harness:
I plan on interrupting either the Starter or Ignition wire and connecting it to the green immobilizer wires on the V5000 brain.
G - Will I need to use fuses if I go with either of these?
H - Are there any concerns with the difference in wire thickness (between the V5000's green wires and the 10ga starter/ignition wires) or how long I run them? The wires on the brain are much thinner than the wires I plan on cutting.

Optional Outputs (Channels 2-6, Retained Accessory):
I - Can I use these to provide ground to relays that will switch power to the power window and/or moonroof motors?
J - What other applications do people commonly use for these?
K - What is the "Retained Accessory Output (-)" commonly used for? Stereos and stuff? Since this is a negative output, should I connect this to a relay at 86, with 12v const at 30 and 85, and the load at 87?

Thanks again in advance for the replies.
JasonGhostz

JasonGhostz

If my Domelight (Ceiling Light) is set to "OFF", should I be receiving a Bypass Notification chirp upon arming for that zone (3)?

1999 Civic EX 2Dr W/Keyless...

(EDITED)
Bypass Notification was for my Glass Sensor (Zone 4)... I have things figured out now...

'


Instead of connecting the 520T with diodes to my trunk wire (H1/7 Blue), is it OK for me to have connected it to my Hood Pin wire instead (H2/2 Gray)?

Also, the Blue/Black wire at the green security plug is an appropriate wire to connect to the H1/7 Blue wire, correct?

Thanks again for the help.

Here are some notes to my previous questions that I have figured out for myself, for those who may need help...

A - The Green wire for Sensor Ports 2 and 3 (rightmost pin, when looking at the brain) will report as Zone 4 and 7 respectively.
B - I still don't know how to tell my remote / brain that Zone 4 is glass, and Zone 7 is tilt, and I can't find it in the manual or installtion guide... any help?
C - No coupler was used.

D - I gave the 520T and my Lojak beacon separate dedicated power leads.
E - The V5000's Siren Output wire is adequate to power the 514N and 2 mini piezos. No additional relay was used.

F - I connected the wires as stated and left the H3/B and H3/E wires unused. Things work fine.

G - No fuses were used. Whether or not they're needed...?
H - I kept the wires 10ga up to the point where I connected it to the V5000's immobilizer wires. Things seem to be fine... for now.

I - I decided against using any window roll-up features, as it'd mean I'd have to get into my door panel and send wires through the green Molex plug... no thanks. I did, however, leave a plug for all 8 optional features (Ch 2-6, Factory Disarm, 2nd Unlock, Ret. Acc).
J - no need for a response.
K - no need for a response.


I spent a week at my mom's taking care of this (also detailed most of my interior ), saved a lot of money and finally installed the V5000 I had sitting for more than 4 years. I learned a lot while doing so, and most of all I'm satisfied with the install... Something I would NEVER have been able to say if anyone else did it.

Big thanks to the helpful members in this forum, especially Suspended, FCM, WRX/STI, NSX. I would not have done this without your help.

JG

JasonGhostz

Unfortunatlely, I'm still getting Bypass Notification for Zone 4 (506T Glass Sensor), even though it's an active sensor (it triggers the alarm when I rap the keys against the glass).

Is there a way to clear this from the brain's system? I the NPC hasn't kicked in, as the 5-chirp notification doesn't happen...
I have already waited one hour, and also turned the ignition on (even drove it around).

JG

rjr162

It will clear if you hooked the ignition input to the alarm up. Once the ignition is powered, and the brain see it's been powered, the NPC will reset.

JasonGhostz

I connected the H1/4 Yellow wire to the Black/Yellow 18ga wire from my Keyless unit. The Helm Manual shows that this is connected to IG1, and the wire behaves appropriately during the different Ignition Key Cylinder states (run, start).

I am going to disonncect my battery for a while and see if that helps. I may need to see WRX/STI in person to see if he can help figure things out... it may be down to a bad 506T, but the fact that it triggers the alarm when tapping the glass hard makes me think otherwise...

Thanks again for the help.
JG

JasonGhostz

Update/Summary:
I'm trying to get rid of the Zone 4 bypass notification chirp when arming, especially since the sensor still works, without turning bypass notification off.

1999 Civic EX 2DR Non-ABS
Viper 5000
DEI 506T

My 506T was previously connected to my KARR 2020 alarm's instant trigger wire via diode. I kept the original 3 and 4 wire harness plugs and made the following connections to the V5000:
- Red wire from 506T is connected to the red wire of the V5000's Sensor Port 2.
- Black wire from 506T is connected to the black wire of the V5000's Sensor Port 2.
- Blue wire from 506T is connected to the outside blue wire (Zone 4) of the V5000's Sensor Port 2.
- V5000 Sensor Port 2 middle blue wire (Zone 2 wire; for multiplexing) is not connected to anything.

When arming, I typically get a 2nd bypass notification chirp. The LED will indicate that Zone 4 is being bypassed. If I immediately disarm it after this, then immediately arm it again, it does not give me the notification chirp.
When armed, and after receiving the bypass notification chirp, tapping the keys on the window will trigger the alarm and report the appropriate sensor.
After plugging in the 506T into Sensor Port 3, I get the same behavior, except for Zone 7.
The V5000 H1/4 Yellow wire (Ignition) is connected to the Black/Yellow wire from the OEM Keyless Unit. I have also disconnected the battery. This, and the fact that I don't receive any NPC chirps when arming, suggests to me that the NPC is not getting in the way.

Any ideas as to how I can fix this?

Thanks in advance,
JG