tyronne1126

I just bought the Valet 712t from Circuit City for 25bucks since they are going out of business.

Ive done research and tried to figure out what wire goes to what and what the hell im doing. Got it for so cheap I dont feel like paying someone to do it. Lol.

1 quick question before hand : I have an old aftermarket alarm in my car that i unplugged because it was giving me trouble. Will this somehow get in my way of installing this KEYLESS ENTRY (No alarm at all)? Can i just put the main harness off and tape it down? And go about install the keyless entry?

Main question: I understand using relays to some extent but never used one. The Valet has a built in harness for the unlock and lock section. What exactly am I going to do if i want the basic lock and unlock with the remote? (I also dont understand where to place the progressive Second Unlock output wire)

- (-)200mA Second Unlock Output

- Lock #30 Common Output (green/black)
- Lock #87 Normally Closed (white/black)
- Lock #87 Normally Opened Input (violet/black)
- Unlock #30 Common Output (blue/black)
- Unlock #87 Normally Open Input (violet)
- Unlock #87a Normally Closed (brown/black)

. .. i have a 1994 Honda Accord 4DR with OEM factory door locks. I know the control unit for the door locks is in the drivers door panel. Do i need to use that directly? Because its going to be hard to wire the wires to the door.

Thank you for any information.

fcm

Your power door lock interface needs to be type "B", [neg.(-) pulse].
You will not need the - (-)200mA Second Unlock Output, unless you want to rewire the drivers door lock actuator to isolate it so you can have, "priority door unlock".

Lock leads...
#87a, (white/black) not used.
#87, (violet/black) to ground.
#30, (green/black] to cars lock wire.

Unlock leads...
#87a, (brown/black) not used.
#87, (violet) to ground)
#30, (blue/black) to cars unlock wire.

Cars lock lead is black/white
Cars unlock lead is orange, found in gray plug above fuse box wrapped to dash harness with blue tape.

Yes you will need to use the stock power door lock control unit, but you do not need to wire to it. 94

You should be removing the non functional alarm along with all it's wiring.

tyronne1126

i just removed the old alarm and was checking everything carefully to make sure what they did and what not to cut. everything is off. and from it i found the door trigger and dome light and ignition harness.

can i ground it anywhere?
so i only basically need two wires from the locks?

what you mean priority door unlock? so without using that and not rewiring it.. the remote will unlock all doors with one press? .. im just curious. but i dont mind. the easier the better

ill be giving it a try in an hour or so. but does anyone know whats the best way to tap into wires?

is it only to cut it and put them all together and solder and heat shrink it?
there is no sort of "tapping" thing. to not cut the original wire?

tyronne1126

im asking because the previous wires werent really cut.. or soldered.. they were slightly stripped but not cut and the other wire wrapped around it.. (i know super ghetto and mickey mouse)

i want to do something simple but firm.

ive had no bad luck at soldering.. (probably cuz i was much younger and didn't know how at all - i went to youtube now.. haha)
but i guess i can give it a try. i need to buy one tho.


sry forgot.. what do you mean.. my door locks need to be negative B? .. is that covered in your explanation in the wiring?

.. do i need to do something to the keyless entry?

EDIT : the only thing i see is the .. flash jumper or something.. it has a 10A fuse in the + section. the (-) has nothing.

fcm

Well one good thing, shitty install and all, no shitty solder connections to have to undo to get the alarm out.

Yes you can ground to any chassis point, high on "A" pillars are good ground points, any bolt or nut on a stud that holds the dash to the chassis is good and just about any part of the dash sub frame will work although directly to the chassis is best.

Priority Door Unlock = Press the remotes unlock button one time and driver door will unlock, press it again, [time limit] and the rest of the doors unlock.
Pretty sure a 94 Accord did not have that feature, so to get it would require rewiring.

The best way to "tag" into a lead in the car is to do it at a plug, unplug, de-pin metal pin from plug on the wire you need to connect to, then solder the the connecting wire to the shank if the pin you removed from the plug, making sure the wire you are connecting, [or the solder you use to make the connection] to pin does not interfere with being able to re-pin the terminal into the plug and it's or the plugs ability to lock it into place.
While we are on de-pinning, you should do so with any leads on the 712Ts 18 pin harness you are not going to use.


"is it only to cut it and put them all together and solder and heat shrink it?
there is no sort of "tapping" thing. to not cut the original wire?"

Yes there is, it is called a "T" tap, however the shitty strip wrap and tape job that was done on the alarm in your car, as shitty as it was, is a better way to do it, stay far far away from that type of connection.

Soldering is as firm as it gets and not that hard to do, if your unsure about soldering do some practicing on a bench first, with some scrap wiring and terminals, [like the ones you remove from the 712T harness].

Your Accord, [like most Honda/Acura] us a type B door lock control system, the switch on the drivers door for the power door locks supplies a ground to the power door lock control unit when pressed for lock or unlock, the wiring configuration I gave you will do that, [supply a ground pulse to the power door lock control unit when you press lock or unlock on the remote.

The light flash jumper is to change the output of the parking light flash wire, [H1/10 white] from pos.(+) to neg.(-), leave it as a pos.(+). 94

tyronne1126

thanks for all the help. stuff caught up with me today. ill be doing the install tomorrow. i believe all i need to find now is the horn and the parking lights.. and to make sure the lock and unlock are the ones i saw earlier.. and to also make sure the dome light is right. .. but everything should be fine.. ill let you know

fcm

There is a parking light free pin on the under dash fuse box.
for dome light ground the input side and connect the output to the black/white lead in gray plug to the right of steering wheel, [alarms door trigger should have been connected there]. 94

tyronne1126

Where exactly is the parking light pin?
Also I noticed that there are three wires hooked up to that grey plug you are talking about but I thought it was the ignition harness but it's not right? (I know where to get the ignition wires)
- I have two wires coming all the way up the left side. Near the pillar. One is orange and silver and the other one is black and white if I remember right.
- I have two more wires coming from slightly left above the fuse box (haven't tried to see what color they are)
- and I got those 3 I mentioned above. That's all that's left from the previous install.
I noticed that the dome light doesn't work anymore for the door trigger but works fine in the on position. Doesn't work for any door.

tyronne1126

Just to let you know. Those two wires coming from the pillar seem to have just been cut out and not tapped into. The cars locks all work right now. The cars dash knows what doors are open and which aren't.

fcm

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-95...Q5fAccessories scroll down to pix of front of box, notice the four terminals just to the left of the fuses, they are the free pins, you will find a park light free pin, a 12V+ constant, [hot at all times] free pin a 2nd ign., [hot in run] free pin and possibly an acc., [hot in on and run] free pin.

Keep in mind there are more then one location to make connections from alarms/key-less entry systems in your car, how/where the last alarms wiring was connected to the cars wiring may or may not be the way/place I would do it. 94

tyronne1126

okay. i installed everything according to where it was suppose to be and its not working. nothing happens. i dont know what i did wrong. i know the ignition and constand 12 are right.. the parking lights are right.. the lock and unlock are according to your advice and the domelight too (it works now) .. i hooked up the horn wire to the old siren (so not sure but it shouldn't matter)... what do i need to do or check?

tyronne1126

Btw I put the old led in place of the new one cuz it looks better. I had to cut it in place tho. Shouldn't matter tho right? The led hasn't gone on at all with the new one. Should I put the new one back on?

fcm

The LEDs may not be the same voltage, so use the one that comes with the 712T.
Try reprogramming the remotes... http://www.directeddealers.com/manua...712T_01-05.pdf page 12. 94

tyronne1126

Hey I tried it and it didn't work.
I see what you are talking about with the extra sockets. How dono get the plugs tho? Are they going to be fused under the hood?
The keyless seems to just be dead.
I got it wires to the ignition harness under the steering wheel. The white constant and the yellow/black.
What do I do?
I checked the fuses.
Where should I ground it? Maybe my spot is bad.

fcm

It is very important that the system has a good ground, ground to an existing dash harness ground point, there should be at least one on the lower "A" piller, behind kick panel trim, or you can make your own ground point on the "A" piller.

Once you know you have a good ground, unplug the 712T brain, [main harness] and test the leads to make sure the harness is connected properly...
Red - 12V+ constant, [hot at all times].
Yellow - 12V+ switched, [hot in run and start].
Black - ground.

Violet - ground.
Violet/black - ground.

Green/black - touch it to ground and doors should lock.
Blue/black - touch it to ground and doors should unlock.

White - should be 12V+ when park/head lights are on.

Black/white 1 and black/white 2 - touch them together and dome light should come on.

Brown - touch it to ground and horn should honk.

If the above test/work as indicated system should work.

Plug brain back in and try it, if it does not work try reprogramming remotes again.

tyronne1126

how do i test if its a good ground or how do i test it at all?

tyronne1126

Hey everything works. Thanks for the help. Well one thing is missing. The horn doesn't work. Remember I hooked up the old siren. Where is the horn from the car? But yeah. I learned my lesson about grounds. It was a bad ground. Thanks!

fcm

The horn lead is in the steering wheel harness and it is either a blue/red or a green/blue lead, [depends on where car was built].94

tyronne1126

i found this in the car repair manual

.. should i just test the wires in my car while honking the horn to get 12v right?
.. nothing right there should make anyhting with the air bags go off right? haha
i dont want those going off !
just looking for conformation haha.. i dont have time to do it today anyway..

thanks

fcm

The horn button does not supply 12V+, it supplies a low current ground to the relays coil and the relay supplies either a high current ground or 12V+ to the horn.

What you need is the low current ground going into the relays coil, test the red/blue at the relay, it should test as 12V+ until you press the horn button when it will test as a ground, if you are using a test light it will light up and then go out when you press the horn, to confirm you have the correct lead use a jumper lead with one end connected to ground and separate out one strand of the wire at the other end and touch that one strand to the blue/red lead, if the horn honks you have the correct lead so connect the 712T horn lead to it, if you have the wrong lead either nothing will happen or the one strand of wire will blow like a fuse, [touching it to 12V+]

No you can not deploy air bag.94