Im looking to redo the audio in my vx EG,

currenty i have a acura deck with some pheonic gold components (stock side) in the front doors, and no rear speakers.

Basically what im looking for is a audio setup where I can get decent bass out of the door speakers, a stockish looking deck, and no sub (dont want the extra weight)

I know I most likly wont get the greatest bass out of a set of components, but right now I get nothing at all.

Atleast somthing where I can hear the lows would be decent.

Anyone who can help me out with some components/deck/amp to choose would be great!


Modified by goldegg at 2:51 PM 12/25/2006


Modified by goldegg at 2:51 PM 12/25/2006

 

I don't think you're not going to get any real satisfactory answers without a small sub. I have a nice set of Boston Accoustic separates in my 92 Si and while they do OK... there is no comparison to what it sounds like with my sub hooked up. You can do what I did for a sub. I use a small powered subwoofer so I can easily remove it for track days. Pull three plugs and undo a strap and it's out takes 10 seconds. The amp is in the sub so you don't even have the weight of the amp remaining in your car.

 

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I don't think you're not going to get any real satisfactory answers without a small sub. </TD></TR></TABLE>

*waits for FCM to explain his system*

 

well, im not looking for like door shaking deep pumping bass, for example.

we have a mazda 3 and i think it has 6.5" door speakers or somthing, and you can definatly hear the lows.

I mean it wont thump, but atleast you get somthing.

and im sure in the aftermarket someone makes a component that will provide some bass?

thanks for the help so far

 

It's me..
I also do not run, [or want to] run amps and subs. I run an Alpine HU, [CDA-7893] and 4 Eclipse 6.5" 2ways, and they produce enough bass for people to accuse me of having hidden amps and subs, [used as demo car to show customers what can be done without subs and amps]

To start with you need a "high power" HU, it takes power to make bass, and the stock Acura HU does not have much, [although it is probably an Alpine also]

The Alpine CDA-9893 is a 4x 27W RMS, [4x60W] and has other features that make it a very good HU for non amped systems, [off board amps]

There are a few speaker brands that will get you pretty good bass, [if they get some power behind them, Eclipse is one of them, however component speakers, [like the Phoenix Gold] generally require more power to drive properly as compared to their coax counterpart.

But the most important factor for good bass and SQ in general, is speaker installation, it is critical for bass response.

My HU is a standard install with Metra kit and harness adapter, using all the stock wiring except the 12V constant, I have run a a fused lead from the batt. directly to the constant power input for the HU, as the stock lead can not supply the current needed for the "high power" internal amp.

The front speakers are installed in the stock locations behind stock grills on custom MDF speaker housings, [replacing the stock plastic housings] and extensive Dynamating was also done.
The rear speakers are installed at the stock locations behind stock grills, in custom MDF and fiberglass cabinets, Dynamating was also done in the rear, although not as extensively as the doors, the tweeters in the rear have been disabled.

I will also add, the system is about 8-9 years old, [speakers] HU is about 5 years old and still going strong although it is time to replace the speakers as they are plain wearing out.
I will try a set of Eclipse 6.5" point source, as they will fit the custom housings, at least 2 of the 4 2ways are still working good enough to use in the rear as rear fill.

Anyway, yes you can get a good sounding system with decent bass response and good SQ with just a HU and 4 speakers, keeping in mind the rear speakers should be mid-range/mid-bass drivers. 94

 

sound deadening your car to perfection will make ANY speaker in your car sound multiple times better than having your speaker(s) in a tinny door.

MDF rings are one of the best mounting fixtures for your speakers.

if you are looking for only front speakers, while your cars stereo will/should sound good as far as sq.. if you are soully looking for a bump up in bass.. i would add a sub.

not because you HAVE to, but because it is simply the easiest way IMO to "boost" your bass output, persay

 

custom fit some 6x9's in the rear deck.. install the 6inch mid bass at your oem mounting location in the door... and install your tweet's on the a-pillar's. u could even remove the spare tire and build a small fiberglass enclosure that you wouldn't have to remove for a sub. and if u wanted to remove it..... it would be easy. remember to use quality wire and a decent powered Hu if you're not amplifing the interior speakers.

 

Thanks alot for the help so far,

so basically what im understanding is I need a higher power HU if i decide to go ampless.

I have nothing against amps, aslong as I can mount them under the front seat and out of the way im fine with it (not too much weight).

As far as 2 vs 4 speaker setup, ide like to try and keep it the front two speakers only since I dont have rear speakers in the vx.

And as far as speaker size in a stock EG door goes without alot of customization (all I have is a dremil) im assuming I can fit a 6.5" or a 6x9 behind the grill?

Im assuming a mdf ring I can pickup at an audio shop, and does anyone have any 2 channel amp suggestions for the components?

and the last question,

tweeters, are they worthwhile, and should i invest in a set and mount them in the door pannel?

 

Well if you have no problems with a small 2ch amp, and you want an easy install, [speakers] I would suggest the Eclipse SP6500... http://www.eclipse-web.com/point/sp6500.html the speaker will fit the stock housing with just a little mod, [cut a hole in the back of the stock plastic speaker housing just big enough for the speakers magnet to fit through, and maybe a little "dremeling" for x-over components] even the speaker mounting screw holes of the Eclipse speaker will line up with the stock ones.

Pick up a 2x75W RMS into 4 ohms amp, a good quality one that has a low profile so you can install it under the pass. seat.

Run only front speakers, if you don't like how it sounds, [imaging], the tweeters can be remotely mounted, [tweeter mounting kits included], but I would try them "point source" mounted first, you can always cut holes in your door panels later and move the tweeters.

A Dynamat, [or the like] "speaker kit" would be a big help and improve SQ a lot, and it would be inexpensive and easy to install. 94

 

Amps don't add a significant amount of weight to affect performance or mileage. The subs themselves are what add the weight, and can vary quite a bit depending on your setup. Because I am in a similar situation with a dual purpose vehicle, primarily daily driven but also competition, I elected for a sub setup that could be easily removed. Previously I had no trunk cover in the rear hatch. I made a lightweight cover out of wood and put some bracing underneath it to support it. Then I installed a Infinity combo amp/sub package (basslink II). Since the battery is already in the trunk, it didn't take a lot of power wire. To remove it, I just disconnect the wires and pull the whole rear trunk cover out sub and all.

You could permanently mount your amp under a front seat or on the back of the back seat. Then set up the sub to be easily removed simply by disconnecting the wires. Or you could get a amp/sub combo.

 

you can also mount an amp in the rear sidepanels where the oem speakers go. if mounted properly you can remove the speaker covers and have access to the adjustments. also you could find a set of 6.5 woofers and build small enclosures where the reaer speakers go. then they will be hidden behind panels like normal but you will have added bass. other then that, what fcm said.