subs? in car or trunk?
Hey ive got 2 10's and there nice, but i have so much freakin vibration of the back deck, and ive tried everything. So i was wondering if anyone had ever put their subs inside the cabin part of their car. (civic ex coupe) so if anyone has done this, how do you guys like how it soudns, or do you have any pointers?
Dont put them in ur back seat, just keep them in your trunk, fold dwn the seats, face them towards the cabin so the air can go through the cabin rather than vibrating ur trunk.
Yeah, probably the best idea. Anyone ever taken our their 6x9's and used them as a bass port? aslo if ya did this where did you install new speakers?
Ya i wouldent put them back there eighter, it would overtake your highs and mids. I have the same problem with my integra and i just put down my back seats and the vibration goes away. If you are seriouse about stopping the vibration whith out loweriing your seats down all the time look into dinomatting your back deck. Its just the cardboard thats vibrating. You can pick the dinomatt up at best buy or your local car sterio shop.
there are 6x9 subwoofers actually, and yes, search teh port thing, it works, ...
However... Dynamat/fatmat/etc will cure the rear pannel rattling... and pointing them out the back of the car will give it the most punch in our civics, even if the seats were folded.. just putting it right towards the open seats shouldnt end the rattle... the box is also part of the speaker. and hence it will rattle still probably...
However... Dynamat/fatmat/etc will cure the rear pannel rattling... and pointing them out the back of the car will give it the most punch in our civics, even if the seats were folded.. just putting it right towards the open seats shouldnt end the rattle... the box is also part of the speaker. and hence it will rattle still probably...
If you're good with tools and want a project, make a bandpass box. You might be able to find plans for the speakers you have. A bandpass box should lower the rattling. It kind of depends on what kind of music you listen too though. Here's my experience:
Sealed: Best sound quality, more rattling, good for all music types, including (bass) guitar.
Bandpass: compromise between sound quality and low end thump, a little loose for rock
Ported: Lowest sound quality, most low end thump, mainly for rap
The sealed boxes are technically the loudest but they are loud at higher frequencies than the other two.
Sealed: Best sound quality, more rattling, good for all music types, including (bass) guitar.
Bandpass: compromise between sound quality and low end thump, a little loose for rock
Ported: Lowest sound quality, most low end thump, mainly for rap
The sealed boxes are technically the loudest but they are loud at higher frequencies than the other two.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by userdead626 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey ive got 2 10's and there nice, but i have so much freakin vibration of the back deck, and ive tried everything. So i was wondering if anyone had ever put their subs inside the cabin part of their car. (civic ex coupe) so if anyone has done this, how do you guys like how it soudns, or do you have any pointers?</TD></TR></TABLE>LMAO..... that is quite the list of, how to get rid of rattles from bass. although some of the advice is right, most of it is wrong.
Bass "rattles" things two ways, air pressure and resonance.
If the air in the trunk, that is compressed by the cones moveing ,[makeing bass] is "trapped" in the trunk, it will get out any way it can, and as trunks are not airtight it gets out where it can, rattling metal and plastic on its way, I have seen rear speakers, [that weren't isolated] with there cones damaged or VCs popped right out of the VC gaps, and most of us have heard the bass fart, air escaping past the trunk gasget.
No matter where you put the subs, bass will resonate, [vibrate] anything and everything.
To solve the air pressure thing is easy, let the air out, flip the seats down, vent the rear deck, [ remove the rear speakers, if not isolate the backs of the speakers].
Rattle control can be a pain, a combonation Dynamat, [or the like] weather stripping, expanding foam, [be carfull how you use it, it can bend metal] and time is the only way to get rid of it, [ for awhile, it will come back and others will show time].
As for best bass, that is in the ear of the beholder, but there are common things that apply, first is a proper box, well constucted, proper air volume, proper port/ports, [if used] , and last , but very important for good sub bass bolt the box down. There are other things that make for good bass, type of speaker and amp, how much power, [watts] x-over points and so on.
94
Bass "rattles" things two ways, air pressure and resonance.
If the air in the trunk, that is compressed by the cones moveing ,[makeing bass] is "trapped" in the trunk, it will get out any way it can, and as trunks are not airtight it gets out where it can, rattling metal and plastic on its way, I have seen rear speakers, [that weren't isolated] with there cones damaged or VCs popped right out of the VC gaps, and most of us have heard the bass fart, air escaping past the trunk gasget.
No matter where you put the subs, bass will resonate, [vibrate] anything and everything.
To solve the air pressure thing is easy, let the air out, flip the seats down, vent the rear deck, [ remove the rear speakers, if not isolate the backs of the speakers].
Rattle control can be a pain, a combonation Dynamat, [or the like] weather stripping, expanding foam, [be carfull how you use it, it can bend metal] and time is the only way to get rid of it, [ for awhile, it will come back and others will show time].
As for best bass, that is in the ear of the beholder, but there are common things that apply, first is a proper box, well constucted, proper air volume, proper port/ports, [if used] , and last , but very important for good sub bass bolt the box down. There are other things that make for good bass, type of speaker and amp, how much power, [watts] x-over points and so on.
94
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yeah i did the whole expanding foam deal, and it did a lot, but time passes by and i get ansy again, haha so im lookin for a final solution. i was looking into fiberglass but ive herd the sound is killed with fiberglass?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by userdead626 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah i did the whole expanding foam deal, and it did a lot, but time passes by and i get ansy again, haha so im lookin for a final solution. i was looking into fiberglass but ive herd the sound is killed with fiberglass?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I really doubt your box is rattling so, I don't know why you think a different box material will solve your problem. It's most likely the panels in your trunk that are rattling and that is because your current setup plays the resonant frequencies of your trunk at high levels. If you switch to a box designed to emphasize lower frequencies(bandpass, ported, or just bigger sealed), you will not have as much rattling(or at least it won't be the same things rattling).
Fiberglass is not bad but it can flex if you don't have internal braces. Flexing lowers the sound pressure level and that means lower volume. Rigidity is your friend when it comes to speaker boxes.
A larger sealed box will give you deeper(although less accurate) bass and probably won't rattle as much.
I really doubt your box is rattling so, I don't know why you think a different box material will solve your problem. It's most likely the panels in your trunk that are rattling and that is because your current setup plays the resonant frequencies of your trunk at high levels. If you switch to a box designed to emphasize lower frequencies(bandpass, ported, or just bigger sealed), you will not have as much rattling(or at least it won't be the same things rattling).
Fiberglass is not bad but it can flex if you don't have internal braces. Flexing lowers the sound pressure level and that means lower volume. Rigidity is your friend when it comes to speaker boxes.
A larger sealed box will give you deeper(although less accurate) bass and probably won't rattle as much.
well, i listen to a lot of rock, and by that i mean alot of music except rap, haha so what would give me the clearest, not necissarly the loudest sound?
You'll get the clearest bass form a sealed box.
In fact, there's one more design, which produces even clearer bass. This design is almost never used in the US but is very popular in Europe (I'm from there, and I've been taking part in many SQ championships, even won a couple of tropheys), and thats an Open Air aka Infinite Buffle design. That's when a sub speaker is mounted directly onto a baffle that separates a cabin from the trunk. Can be a rear shelf or an opening behind the arm rest in rear seats.
Anyway, back to the rattling problem. What I would recommend is to burn a CD with a lo freq signal (a 30-100Hz sweep sine should do the trick) , put it in the player, go to the back seat and listen to what's rattling. Should be really easy to spot. And then- ***mat and foamrubber are your best friends
Let me know if you need an audio signal, I'll make one for you. I can also calculate a box of any type for you if you need, but I would really recommend going for a sealed enclosure since all the others require very careful and time consuming tuning to sound good.
In fact, there's one more design, which produces even clearer bass. This design is almost never used in the US but is very popular in Europe (I'm from there, and I've been taking part in many SQ championships, even won a couple of tropheys), and thats an Open Air aka Infinite Buffle design. That's when a sub speaker is mounted directly onto a baffle that separates a cabin from the trunk. Can be a rear shelf or an opening behind the arm rest in rear seats.
Anyway, back to the rattling problem. What I would recommend is to burn a CD with a lo freq signal (a 30-100Hz sweep sine should do the trick) , put it in the player, go to the back seat and listen to what's rattling. Should be really easy to spot. And then- ***mat and foamrubber are your best friends
Let me know if you need an audio signal, I'll make one for you. I can also calculate a box of any type for you if you need, but I would really recommend going for a sealed enclosure since all the others require very careful and time consuming tuning to sound good.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Olegus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You'll get the clearest bass form a sealed box.
In fact, there's one more design, which produces even clearer bass. This design is almost never used in the US but is very popular in Europe (I'm from there, and I've been taking part in many SQ championships, even won a couple of tropheys), and thats an Open Air aka Infinite Buffle design. That's when a sub speaker is mounted directly onto a baffle that separates a cabin from the trunk. Can be a rear shelf or an opening behind the arm rest in rear seats.
Anyway, back to the rattling problem. What I would recommend is to burn a CD with a lo freq signal (a 30-100Hz sweep sine should do the trick) , put it in the player, go to the back seat and listen to what's rattling. Should be really easy to spot. And then- ***mat and foamrubber are your best friends
Let me know if you need an audio signal, I'll make one for you. I can also calculate a box of any type for you if you need, but I would really recommend going for a sealed enclosure since all the others require very careful and time consuming tuning to sound good. </TD></TR></TABLE>
infinite baffle only works if you have a sub designed for that.
In fact, there's one more design, which produces even clearer bass. This design is almost never used in the US but is very popular in Europe (I'm from there, and I've been taking part in many SQ championships, even won a couple of tropheys), and thats an Open Air aka Infinite Buffle design. That's when a sub speaker is mounted directly onto a baffle that separates a cabin from the trunk. Can be a rear shelf or an opening behind the arm rest in rear seats.
Anyway, back to the rattling problem. What I would recommend is to burn a CD with a lo freq signal (a 30-100Hz sweep sine should do the trick) , put it in the player, go to the back seat and listen to what's rattling. Should be really easy to spot. And then- ***mat and foamrubber are your best friends
Let me know if you need an audio signal, I'll make one for you. I can also calculate a box of any type for you if you need, but I would really recommend going for a sealed enclosure since all the others require very careful and time consuming tuning to sound good. </TD></TR></TABLE>
infinite baffle only works if you have a sub designed for that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CooBlueDAB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
infinite baffle only works if you have a sub designed for that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Absolutely correct. And they sound really good. Especially after you've covered a whole car with 3 layers of whatevermats
its a 98, the major rattles, are from the back deck, and i have done everything to it foam dynomatt, everythign and it helped a lot, but still theres horrible noises commin from it, and im trying to find a nice solution without having to have my seats down, or without taking the back deck off
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jasonw »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're good with tools and want a project, make a bandpass box. You might be able to find plans for the speakers you have. A bandpass box should lower the rattling. It kind of depends on what kind of music you listen too though. Here's my experience:
Sealed: Best sound quality, more rattling, good for all music types, including (bass) guitar.
Bandpass: compromise between sound quality and low end thump, a little loose for rock
Ported: Lowest sound quality, most low end thump, mainly for rap
The sealed boxes are technically the loudest but they are loud at higher frequencies than the other two.</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow bad info...
bandpass boxes are the worst sound quality, they are only good at producing a a relatively small frequency, but they are extremely loud and effecient...
sealed boxes offer possibly the best sound quality for most applications, but are not as effecient as ported or bandpass and typically require a little more power....no biggie. They give you a real tight bass.
ported boxes if designed properly will be the best, but 99 percent of them aren't, you'd need an enclosure specifically designed by that company in a lab for that peticular sub.
if you mainly listen to rap and you just want your car to "bump" as loud as possible, bandpass definatly
if your listen to everything, get a sealed box, they are much smaller and lighter then bandpass also.
to fix rattling...and if your serious about your sound, i recommend dynomating your entire car, it will ad about 40lbs, and your car will be as quiet as a lexus.
Sealed: Best sound quality, more rattling, good for all music types, including (bass) guitar.
Bandpass: compromise between sound quality and low end thump, a little loose for rock
Ported: Lowest sound quality, most low end thump, mainly for rap
The sealed boxes are technically the loudest but they are loud at higher frequencies than the other two.</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow bad info...
bandpass boxes are the worst sound quality, they are only good at producing a a relatively small frequency, but they are extremely loud and effecient...
sealed boxes offer possibly the best sound quality for most applications, but are not as effecient as ported or bandpass and typically require a little more power....no biggie. They give you a real tight bass.
ported boxes if designed properly will be the best, but 99 percent of them aren't, you'd need an enclosure specifically designed by that company in a lab for that peticular sub.
if you mainly listen to rap and you just want your car to "bump" as loud as possible, bandpass definatly
if your listen to everything, get a sealed box, they are much smaller and lighter then bandpass also.
to fix rattling...and if your serious about your sound, i recommend dynomating your entire car, it will ad about 40lbs, and your car will be as quiet as a lexus.
http://www.turbod16.com/album_...847bb
thats how mine are mounted, i have just my trunk dynamated currently, sounds awesome, my ports are where the trunk hinges are
thats how mine are mounted, i have just my trunk dynamated currently, sounds awesome, my ports are where the trunk hinges are
me
, the subs sound real nice too with that setup...they resonate in the trunk and sound great in the cabin...if you open the trunk and listen they sound like ****, which is how it should be.
to get rid of the rattles, first dynamat, then just place your system really loud, and then put pressure on all the points that u think are rattling, takes a few hours to figure them all out but its worth it
, the subs sound real nice too with that setup...they resonate in the trunk and sound great in the cabin...if you open the trunk and listen they sound like ****, which is how it should be. to get rid of the rattles, first dynamat, then just place your system really loud, and then put pressure on all the points that u think are rattling, takes a few hours to figure them all out but its worth it
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaZman69 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow bad info...
bandpass boxes are the worst sound quality, they are only good at producing a a relatively small frequency, but they are extremely loud and effecient...
sealed boxes offer possibly the best sound quality for most applications, but are not as effecient as ported or bandpass and typically require a little more power....no biggie. They give you a real tight bass.</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow bad info!
You can tune a bandpass box for your speakers and taste and get much tigher bass than ported. Ported just lets you emphasize the lower frequencies the most. This is why it's important to research the type/length/number of ports you wish to use in a bandpass/ported box. Also, I'm assuming everyone reading this is familiar with frequency response curves. If not, read up on that and how they are effected by the box size/type.
Sealed boxes give the most accurate bass and are in fact the loudest. They just tend to be tuned to higher frequencies which rattle the car more. Try going to a dB drag event and see what kind of boxes the winners use(I still have my trophy...). They use small, sealed enclosures. It's not that sealed boxes take more power, it's that they allow the speaker to handle more!
bandpass boxes are the worst sound quality, they are only good at producing a a relatively small frequency, but they are extremely loud and effecient...
sealed boxes offer possibly the best sound quality for most applications, but are not as effecient as ported or bandpass and typically require a little more power....no biggie. They give you a real tight bass.</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow bad info!
You can tune a bandpass box for your speakers and taste and get much tigher bass than ported. Ported just lets you emphasize the lower frequencies the most. This is why it's important to research the type/length/number of ports you wish to use in a bandpass/ported box. Also, I'm assuming everyone reading this is familiar with frequency response curves. If not, read up on that and how they are effected by the box size/type.
Sealed boxes give the most accurate bass and are in fact the loudest. They just tend to be tuned to higher frequencies which rattle the car more. Try going to a dB drag event and see what kind of boxes the winners use(I still have my trophy...). They use small, sealed enclosures. It's not that sealed boxes take more power, it's that they allow the speaker to handle more!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaZman69 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">me
, the subs sound real nice too with that setup...they resonate in the trunk and sound great in the cabin...if you open the trunk and listen they sound like ****, which is how it should be.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would kill more mine to look like that, you got any pointers? what material did you use?
, the subs sound real nice too with that setup...they resonate in the trunk and sound great in the cabin...if you open the trunk and listen they sound like ****, which is how it should be. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I would kill more mine to look like that, you got any pointers? what material did you use?
i was the announcer at db drags at circuit city dusche, and an installer, i know exactly what they do, this is a passenger vehicle, not an spl contest.... A bandpass enclosure is going to sound the loudest to the human ear inside your car. They sound like ****, i've never heard one that sounds good....a ported enclosure is where port tuning is really important. A sealed is the loudest, but a bandpass is going to be louder with X wattage, because they are more effecient.


