sub help
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me n my friends got a good deal on some JL in a group buy...now i just gotta install it...
the thing is i'm a noonb coming to audio..its a JLw3 i think 10 inch. what kind of amp am i looking for? wattage, and whatever rating? channels? i'm not looking into making a killer system, something that just kicks good enough...i want to search the classifieds but i'm not sure what i'm looking for...
the thing is i'm a noonb coming to audio..its a JLw3 i think 10 inch. what kind of amp am i looking for? wattage, and whatever rating? channels? i'm not looking into making a killer system, something that just kicks good enough...i want to search the classifieds but i'm not sure what i'm looking for...
Need the model number of the sub, the 10W3v2-D2, D4 and D6, [DVC] are all 300W continuous, [RMS]... http://mobile.jlaudio.com/prod...id=11
the new 10W3v3-D2, D4 and D8, [SVC] are also 300W continuous, [RMS] so an amp, [mono block sub amp] that makes at least 300W RMS into, [what ever model sub you have] is what you should be looking for.
Use recommended volume sealed sub box, [also need model number for box recommendations].
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the new 10W3v3-D2, D4 and D8, [SVC] are also 300W continuous, [RMS] so an amp, [mono block sub amp] that makes at least 300W RMS into, [what ever model sub you have] is what you should be looking for.
Use recommended volume sealed sub box, [also need model number for box recommendations].
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There are 16 JL 500/1 amps at eBay... http://search.ebay.com/search/...gory0= a used one with a bid of $76.01 at this point, and a brand new one for $255 and it includes a new 12W7 and an 8ga amp wiring kit, although that bid will deff. go up, it is also not the amp I would use on a 12W7, [a 750W sub] I would also be looking at 4ga power wire.
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o i have a crx and currently i'm running a 03 model alpine deck. i think it has built in amp for speakers or something correct...? so would i need more channels for speakers for front and rear?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by supracrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i have the
10 inch w3 v2 d2....so which amp would u guys run?</TD></TR></TABLE> You have the DVC 2 ohm sub, the VCs can be wired in parallel for a 1 ohm load or in series for a 4 ohm load, [I recommend a 4 ohm load (VCs wired in series)] so you will need an amp that makes at least 300W RMS into 4 ohms, you can also use an amp the makes at least 300W into a 1 ohm load, [VCs wired in parallel] either way the amp should be a mono block sub amp, [1ch. amp] again I recommend a 4 ohm load.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by supracrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">o i have a crx and currently i'm running a 03 model alpine deck. i think it has built in amp for speakers or something correct...? so would i need more channels for speakers for front and rear?</TD></TR></TABLE> Yes the Alpine will have a built in 4ch. amp, [give me a model number and I can get you specs for it]
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10 inch w3 v2 d2....so which amp would u guys run?</TD></TR></TABLE> You have the DVC 2 ohm sub, the VCs can be wired in parallel for a 1 ohm load or in series for a 4 ohm load, [I recommend a 4 ohm load (VCs wired in series)] so you will need an amp that makes at least 300W RMS into 4 ohms, you can also use an amp the makes at least 300W into a 1 ohm load, [VCs wired in parallel] either way the amp should be a mono block sub amp, [1ch. amp] again I recommend a 4 ohm load.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by supracrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">o i have a crx and currently i'm running a 03 model alpine deck. i think it has built in amp for speakers or something correct...? so would i need more channels for speakers for front and rear?</TD></TR></TABLE> Yes the Alpine will have a built in 4ch. amp, [give me a model number and I can get you specs for it]
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hey thanks..i was looking into what amp i will need...i was thinking of just selling the JL so i won't have to deal with wiring the amp and stuff
just get a basslink since its compact and stuff
just get a basslink since its compact and stuff
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ok i got an amp from a friend..so yea
now i just need a sub enclosure...there are recommended specs for the enclousre by JL but if i buy an enclosure that is premade.....does it have to be the exact dimensions of the ones recommended by JL? if the dimensions are a bit smaller would it effect anything?
now i just need a sub enclosure...there are recommended specs for the enclousre by JL but if i buy an enclosure that is premade.....does it have to be the exact dimensions of the ones recommended by JL? if the dimensions are a bit smaller would it effect anything?
The dimensions of the box really make no difference at all, [except you do not want a box that is a cube, EG: 12"x12"x12"] what is important is the internal volume of the box, as long as the boxes internal volume is within 10% of what JLs recommended volume is you will not be able to tell the diff., according to the measurements you give and assuming both boxes are made with 3/4" MDF the diff. is about 350 cu.in. about 20% bigger then recommended should still be OK, you could use up some of that extra volume and "beef up" the box by adding bracing to the inside of the box.
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sorry for the questions FCM but thanks for all the help one last one....
would this amp be ok and would it provide good sound or should i go for something else...it says 175 at 4 ohms but since my sub is 300 should i be looking for something that is more?
http://www.shopping.com/xPF-Kicker_DX350
would this amp be ok and would it provide good sound or should i go for something else...it says 175 at 4 ohms but since my sub is 300 should i be looking for something that is more?
http://www.shopping.com/xPF-Kicker_DX350
Because of the sub you have it can only be wired to 1 or 4 ohms, so you really need an amp the makes 300W RMS into 1 or 4 ohms, the amp you link, as you say is only 175W into 4 ohms and is not stable below 2 ohms, although you could run the sub at 175W RMS all day long and not hurt anything, you will not use the full potential of the sub you have and are more then likely to drive the amp into clipping and that can destroy the sub.
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FCM - yourre the best thats for anwering my questions...
ok the above amp i would have got from my friend for free thats why i was thinking of picking i tup...i have another one but i pretty sure it won't do the job as well...its a crossfire CFA404..from what i know its 4 channel x 100 watts...if i bridge it would be 200 watts...but i'm pretty sure its not a good idea to do it that way...like i said the two amps i said is free thats why i'm asking...thanks for the help...
would something like this be even better?
http://cgi.ebay.com/BAZOOKA-EL...wItem
ok the above amp i would have got from my friend for free thats why i was thinking of picking i tup...i have another one but i pretty sure it won't do the job as well...its a crossfire CFA404..from what i know its 4 channel x 100 watts...if i bridge it would be 200 watts...but i'm pretty sure its not a good idea to do it that way...like i said the two amps i said is free thats why i'm asking...thanks for the help...
would something like this be even better?
http://cgi.ebay.com/BAZOOKA-EL...wItem
Just like the first amp you could get the 4ch. to work you could only really use 2 of the 4 channels and the wattage is low, you will not get the full potential of the sub, you should get an amp that will make 1x300W RMS into a 4 ohm load, or even up to 1x400W.
Out of the 2 amps I would use the first one, just take it easy until you can get a good 300W mono block sub amp.
Yes the Bazooka amp would be better.
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Out of the 2 amps I would use the first one, just take it easy until you can get a good 300W mono block sub amp.
Yes the Bazooka amp would be better.
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FCM- i need your help ...THANKS
i got the bazooka amp that i listed above..
the bazooka ELA300.1- its rated at 4 ohms at 300 watts...so i would defintely run the sub at 4 ohms with the VC in series? also would there be other settings that i should worry about when i wire it in? i should be gettin the amo this weekend and hopefully with my enclosure, amo coming i will install it so i can get some beat in my car...THANKS
i got the bazooka amp that i listed above..
the bazooka ELA300.1- its rated at 4 ohms at 300 watts...so i would defintely run the sub at 4 ohms with the VC in series? also would there be other settings that i should worry about when i wire it in? i should be gettin the amo this weekend and hopefully with my enclosure, amo coming i will install it so i can get some beat in my car...THANKS
Dude, that Kicker amp would do fine bro, in fack it will push the hell out of 2 10's. Kicker, Rockford, Phoenix Gold, JL Audio are all way underated. If it says 175 watts its probably more like 250 and I do believe your subs are listed as 300 watts max, the Kicker amp is pushing 175 rms and more like 250 to 300 peak power. Dude, just cause the subs say 300 watts dosent mean you have to put 300 watts to em. The new SoloBarics are like 2500watt subs but not too many people can afford to put 5000 watts in there ride to push too of em. I have pushed solobarics with 200watts and it tear the car apart. It really dosent have **** to do with wattage, its the amps that count. If you have a 1000watt amp but it has a 20amp fuse in it it aint worth ****. Work with what you got bro. And BTW, that kicker amp should be stable into 1ohm. Its not a cheap amp! In fact its a really good amp but if you want to go bigger check out ebay. I just picked up a Phoenix Gold ZX 600ti brand new for less than $200 shipped. I guess somebody bought it a few yers ago and just never used it. Most amps made today dont even compair to the zx600. Its one bad *** amp!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GElite »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dude, that Kicker amp would do fine bro, in fack it will push the hell out of 2 10's. Kicker, Rockford, Phoenix Gold, JL Audio are all way underated. If it says 175 watts its probably more like 250 and I do believe your subs are listed as 300 watts max, the Kicker amp is pushing 175 rms and more like 250 to 300 peak power. Dude, just cause the subs say 300 watts dosent mean you have to put 300 watts to em. The new SoloBarics are like 2500watt subs but not too many people can afford to put 5000 watts in there ride to push too of em. I have pushed solobarics with 200watts and it tear the car apart. It really dosent have **** to do with wattage, its the amps that count. If you have a 1000watt amp but it has a 20amp fuse in it it aint worth ****. Work with what you got bro. And BTW, that kicker amp should be stable into 1ohm. Its not a cheap amp! In fact its a really good amp but if you want to go bigger check out ebay. I just picked up a Phoenix Gold ZX 600ti brand new for less than $200 shipped. I guess somebody bought it a few yers ago and just never used it. Most amps made today dont even compair to the zx600. Its one bad *** amp!</TD></TR></TABLE>
if there is one thing you SHOULDNT do.. its listen to this clown.
go with fcm's advice, its far more superior.. well actually its the best advice you could really get. the 10w2d2 is rated at 300 watts of "thermal power handling" aka RMS watts or continuous power handling.
as mentioned before, with a DVC sub.. you can wire the voice coils either parallel or in series. the best way would be to wire the voice coils in series for a 4 ohm load and find a monoblock class d subwoofer amp that makes 300-400 watts RMSx1 so you have some lee-way for adjusting your gains and you shouldnt have to worry about clipping the amplifier.. which will be the first thing to destroy that sub.
if there is one thing you SHOULDNT do.. its listen to this clown.
go with fcm's advice, its far more superior.. well actually its the best advice you could really get. the 10w2d2 is rated at 300 watts of "thermal power handling" aka RMS watts or continuous power handling.
as mentioned before, with a DVC sub.. you can wire the voice coils either parallel or in series. the best way would be to wire the voice coils in series for a 4 ohm load and find a monoblock class d subwoofer amp that makes 300-400 watts RMSx1 so you have some lee-way for adjusting your gains and you shouldnt have to worry about clipping the amplifier.. which will be the first thing to destroy that sub.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by supracrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FCM- i need your help ...THANKS
i got the bazooka amp that i listed above..
the bazooka ELA300.1- its rated at 4 ohms at 300 watts...so i would defintely run the sub at 4 ohms with the VC in series? also would there be other settings that i should worry about when i wire it in? i should be gettin the amo this weekend and hopefully with my enclosure, amo coming i will install it so i can get some beat in my car...THANKS</TD></TR></TABLE> The Bazooka amp is the best of the lot, however it is only 200W RMS into 4 ohms/300W RMS into 2 ohms, [if your talking about the ELA300.1] Ithe EL1500 would have been better, but it is still better then what you could get for free.
I am not sure what controls the Bazooka amp has on it, but for sure it will have a gain control, [do not turn up past 90%] a filter switch, [set to lowpass, LOW or(L/P)] there will also be a x-over control with a continuous adjustment between 60Hz and 400Hz, [ start it at 100Hz and try it higher or lower] to what ever sounds best, it may also have a "boost" control, [be careful how high you turn it up].
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i got the bazooka amp that i listed above..
the bazooka ELA300.1- its rated at 4 ohms at 300 watts...so i would defintely run the sub at 4 ohms with the VC in series? also would there be other settings that i should worry about when i wire it in? i should be gettin the amo this weekend and hopefully with my enclosure, amo coming i will install it so i can get some beat in my car...THANKS</TD></TR></TABLE> The Bazooka amp is the best of the lot, however it is only 200W RMS into 4 ohms/300W RMS into 2 ohms, [if your talking about the ELA300.1] Ithe EL1500 would have been better, but it is still better then what you could get for free.
I am not sure what controls the Bazooka amp has on it, but for sure it will have a gain control, [do not turn up past 90%] a filter switch, [set to lowpass, LOW or(L/P)] there will also be a x-over control with a continuous adjustment between 60Hz and 400Hz, [ start it at 100Hz and try it higher or lower] to what ever sounds best, it may also have a "boost" control, [be careful how high you turn it up].
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OK Dude, Whatever you say. How old are you dude? I have have probably built more systems over the past 15 years than you have even seen! Forget it man, I aint even gonna go there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GElite »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK Dude, Whatever you say. How old are you dude? I have have probably built more systems over the past 15 years than you have even seen! Forget it man, I aint even gonna go there.</TD></TR></TABLE>ROFL Well I have been doing car audio for almost 35 years, [do you even know what an 8 track is] and I agree with LSRracing95 and not because he agrees with me, but because he is right and you are wrong, if you have been building systems for 15 years, don't quit your day job, and if installing car audio is your day job, then you should quit before you hurt yourself, the only thing in your post that is correct is when you said the P/G ZX600ti was a good amp, and no the Kicker amp is not stable to 1 ohm.
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LMMFAO YDA, You guys are a ******* joke! Do I know what an 8 track is, Why is that what rockin in you ride? I bet it sounds great, my granddad could hook you up with some old Hank Williams Sr 8 tracks. 35 years huh, I guess that makes you about 55. What is a senor citzen doing hanging out at a tuner site, looking for little boys huh! Thats sick man. You need to get some help. And BTW anybody that says you have to put a 300 watt amp on subs that are rated at 300 watts is a dumb *** that dosent know car audio and please give one example of a 1000 watt amp that draws less than 25 amps thats worth a expletive. There aint one, any decient 1000 watt amp is gonna pull anywhere from 80 to 100 amps peak. Anybody rockin Bazooka **** definatly dosent know whats up. I guess you would probaby recommend a Jenson or a Kracko head unit too huh.


