ok since i can't get a hold of a cheap enclosure....i decided to try building my own...i had all the tools and the MDF so i'm gonna try it..if it fails i can always just pay to get one. couple questions what do i use to seal the box really good? i heard silicone, liquid nail, and other stuff but what is good? i'll be attaching the panels by screws but what else can i use? as for the terminals where can i get the terminals for the enclosures?

and suggestions, advice would be great. thanks

 

Use #6 drywall screws. Silicone to seal it from the inside and drill a hole and run the wire in through there then silicone it shut. Just be sure to leave enough wire in the box.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oemjdmdc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use #6 drywall screws. Silicone to seal it from the inside and drill a hole and run the wire in through there then silicone it shut. Just be sure to leave enough wire in the box.</TD></TR></TABLE>

any local audio dealer should sell a separate piece for your terminals for the wires.
it looks shitty when you make a nice box and then have a hole with silicone for the wire for the sub..

i also use window weld to seal the inside of the box, and use #6 drywall screws as stated.. if running a high power subwoofer, make sure the screws that secure the sub to the mdf are large and install carefully.

 

another good thing to seal a box with is the tar caulk. you use it to seal big cracks in the asphalt.

 

I use wood glue when I assemble the box, predrill and countersink the screw holes, I also use a drywall screw, [#8 grabber screw, twice as long as the MDF I am going through, normally 3/4" so 1.5" screws] and I predrill at an angle, [start 3/4" in from the edge and angle out] drilling or screwing straight into the cut end of MDF will only split it, once box is assembled, to make sure the seams are airtight, [and they should be with the glue] I run a bead of silicon along each seam inside the box. and as LSRracing95 mentions your local car audio shop will have them, or an electronics supply store. 94

 

i tried cutting the MDF today and i think some of the edges are not straight so i may have to redo it....but its only by a little

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> as LSRracing95 mentions your local car audio shop will have them, or an electronics supply store. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

make sure u get the ones that screw in and can make a seal, dont get the ones that just fit in a drilled out hole, it doesnt make a good seal at all

also do u know the specified air volume for your particular sub? make it as close to that as possible. when you have it made and sealed, stuff the inside with Poly-fill. then put the sub in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by supracrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i tried cutting the MDF today and i think some of the edges are not straight so i may have to redo it....but its only by a little
</TD></TR></TABLE> Your cuts have to be square. [on both planes] not only for the box to be airtight but for it to be strong and solid.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DireFire234 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure u get the ones that screw in and can make a seal, dont get the ones that just fit in a drilled out hole, it doesnt make a good seal at all</TD></TR></TABLE> Actually, no mater what you install seal it with silicone, push in or screw on once siliconed, they are just as airtight. 94

 

Also make sure u remember ,as fcm said, wood glue.
Not another type such as Gorilla glue or some alt.
Wood glue makes a chemical bond to the wood,not just on the outside of the surface.

 

whats a good tool to cut the sub hole?

jigsaw? i don't have a circular saw or anything of that sort...i gotta see what my friends have that i can borrow..

 

Jig saw will work just fine. Just take your time cutting the hole.

Don't push it, let the blade do the cutting....some jigsaws seem jumpy if you rush it.

 

router is preferable, but a jigsaw will work just fine if you're handy with your wood

 

I bought this Rotary tool and it comes with a circle cutting add on.Makes it so easy to cut out circles.
http://www.homedepot.com/prel8...s=n24

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I predrill at an angle, [start 3/4" in from the edge and angle out] drilling or screwing straight into the cut end of MDF will only split it, once box is assembled, 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

I disagree with pre drilling at an angle, the box builder here is 79 years old and has been building cabinets for over 50 years, he pre drills the holes straight down and spaces them 4-5 inches apart and has no problems with splitting the wood. He also doesnt use caulk, just wood glue and screws. he is very precise and doesnt need to waste the extra money on caulk.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by incubus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I disagree with pre drilling at an angle, the box builder here is 79 years old and has been building cabinets for over 50 years, he pre drills the holes straight down and spaces them 4-5 inches apart and has no problems with splitting the wood. He also doesnt use caulk, just wood glue and screws. he is very precise and doesnt need to waste the extra money on caulk.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know a guy who is this good too and is a cabinet maker.

What he does (and I do now) is he countersinks the hole for the screw on one side of the panel, he then flips the board around and countersinks slightly on that side as well. He also counter sinks the receiving hold a touch - just barely.

Since I have started doing this, I have never split a board.

Another thing to keep in mind, on a properly built box, the screws do little more then holding the box together while the glue is setting...

 

thanks guys for the help...as this is my first attempt to make a box i know it might fail or it might work out...not sure until the finish product comes out...

i didn't have the right tools to cut so it makes things harder...rite now i cut all the pieces that i needed already. no matter what i don't have a bench saw...so it still not as straight as it can be...but i tried sanding it down to make it as straight as possible. and it seems to be doing its job. i used wood glue along with about 4 screws on each side and use some caulk to seal it...seems to be doing its job. i blew some compressed air and doesn't seem to be leaking so who knows....

all i have left is cutting the damn circle for the sub....having a hard time because i can't get a hold of a jigsaw..unless i buy one..only thing ihave is a dremel with the cutting tool which i don't wanna use.

i know some of u might yell or flame me for making enclosure incorrectly but like i said if it doesn't work out..i'm gonna retry it again sinc ei have a big piece of unused MDF...heheeh

 

one way to get beter keep trying it :D

and if your joints arent PERFECT like mine HARDLY ARE.LOL
cut some 90degree square pieces and line the corners with it also predrilling and screwing also wood glue to it.
ive never had a precise cut in my life.LMFAO but if its to bad these square woo pieces fix that easily! and carpet covers the outside
or wood filler if you wish.....
but i always use liquid nail and get a piece of plastic, 3fingers and smooth it down in the corners smooths and presses it into cracks.
ive been building my own boxes for about 10years now.... trust me ya dont wanna see the ones when i started building.LMFAO

tho most important thing i have learned.... is cut a piece, test fit, cut another piece, test fit, then screw them together and then yep you guessed it test fit it again! measure one piece at a time and build it one side at a time
ive ruined so many boxes by screwen up and cutting alll the wood at one time and forgeting to compensate for overlaping wood and made the boxes to big and they wouldnt fit
NOTHING WORSE than THINKING your done with the box and trying to fit it in the car and finding out IT DOESNT FIT then you gotta chop your box down and retry a side or two depending how bad it is.LMFAO

 

yeap keep trying...i think the caulk for the wood i bought will seal it up pretty good actually
but we'll see thanks

 

yes it works just fine.
i just like to use liquid nail cause it hardens and isnt able to flex.

just be sure to smooth it down with your fingers, tho wear gloves or just tear off some pieces of plastic to cover your fingers
one thing thats also saved me alot of time is a belt sander! you can build the box just alittle small and simply sand off some overlaped MDF.
i always do with every box ive made! smooths the endges and joints and after carpeted no one will ever know if you made a small mistake!

i hope i can get some decent bass in a civic when i get one!
im looking localy right now for one! was gona fix my 84crx BUT its to badly rusted... plus id like to have a few more modern options you know AC, power locks, windows, CC
just have to find one localy that is in good shape

 

hahha yea i actually used liguid nail on the surfaces that i nailed together....and then the caulk to seal the edges from the inside..to double it to make sure hahaha

i def need more bass in the crx...i hate the no bass ****

 

i love bass as you can see from my name
that will be the FIRST thing i put in it!LOL
thats always been the first thing ive added. when i got my truck the day after i got it i had bass in it

 

Sound is def. one of the first upgrades to my cars.

Also...addiction2bass from Termpro.com?
Glad to have another RE head in here.

 

well not much RE for to long... not after thier freaken price JUMPS!!!!!! if i buy anything else its gonna be DD most likely! a freaken XXX is not worth the 800bucks to me! when it used to cost like about 300bucks at least the old model.

maybe used stuff. but not new from RE!

tho i do have my 99civic EX now
just bought a few toys for it and a amplifier instal kit.... so i can throw my 2 10inch RE REs in thier

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by addiction2bass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well not much RE for to long... not after thier freaken price JUMPS!!!!!! if i buy anything else its gonna be DD most likely! a freaken XXX is not worth the 800bucks to me! when it used to cost like about 300bucks at least the old model.

maybe used stuff. but not new from RE!

tho i do have my 99civic EX now
just bought a few toys for it and a amplifier instal kit.... so i can throw my 2 10inch RE REs in thier </TD></TR></TABLE>
Haha,,yeh whats up with that.I seen in a few other forums buy from them direct and its 1600.Gonna scare off the reason people loved them.A cheaper sub that could out perform a w7.
Yeh im never sellin my 15 XXX,but ive been lookin at SoundSplinter subs.Look awesome and pretty reasonable in price.
Good Luck with that install,i got a 95 Civic 4dr and they can get decently loud for trunk cars.

 

ya one thing i want to do is put some aero ports in my back deck... that will be my first hack for sure.LMFAO

id like to put the 12inch SX and RE35.1 in thier BUT im glassing a box for my truck which has cost to much money already just to scrap!