Ok so I am in the process of re-wiring my car. Battery is in the trunk... How does the 80AMP fuse work? Is that on the alternator circuit (which makes sense to me because the stock alternator I believe is rated at 80AMPS max) or does the starter power or all power go through that fuse as well? Are both those wires on the same plate or is the left or right side fused?

I figured the starter is a direct feed from the battery with no fuse whatsoever in the circuit. Then the 80AMP is on the alternator line to protect the battery from over charging and blowing up or something? Lol

After that is clarified, my question is: Does the "underhood fusebox" need either of the wires pictures on the left going into it for power? Or can those be directly fed or ran with an inline fuse instead?

 

Batt. power to starter is direct from the batt. to the starter and there is no fuse.
With your relocated batt. you will have to install a fuse, [as close to batt. as possible and use an ANL fuse and post type fuse holder, run the batt. cable to the engine bay and connect it directly to the starter motor, [just like it was when batt was in the engine bay] run a lead from the starter motor to the fuse box, right hand terminal. 94

 

If the battery is in the trunk, their MUST be a fuse?

We relocated the battery in my brothers '91 Dx and we didnt use a fuse. If this is dangerous and can start a fire ill let the new owner know.

 

What size fuse near the battery then since a fuse on the main line would mean the starter wire is getting a fuse. If my battery puts out 650CCA, how many amps is a B series starter and are either of those relevant to fuse size?

 

150A if using 4ga and 225A if using 2ga.

If batt. cable is going to be longer then 8', use 2ga, you can get very good quality cable from a welding supply shop, [arc welding cable] way better and cheaper then any "pimp my audio system" cable from a car audio shop.

Also do not use "pimp my audio system" gold ring terminals, cheap junk.

Get proper, [gauge and stud size] Pico "brazed seam" ring terminals...



Solder them to the cable. 94

 

Yeah I've searched around with amp wiring kits and battery relocation kits... most of it is actually CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum) which takes a serious amount more of wire to achieve the same flow as copper. Also a lot advertise a gauge size but don't list it as AWG (American Wire Gauge).

Fearing some garbage I decided to purchase 2 gauge AWG copper battery cable from NAPA and with my military discount it comes out to around $3/FT. I purchased my ANL fuse holders and several fuses as back ups or things to try if one is too small.

Now the only thing left to buy is one of those battery terminals with multiple ports. I want one for the 2 gauge running forward and I have 15FT of extra 4 gauge wire that I was going to use to provide a power and ground for my amplifier. All engine bay grounds are already 4 gauge.