just finished my own install,
i'm finding that the kill relay i'm using across the starter interrupt wires (hornet 740t) isn't working correctly.

I assumed that the starter kill terminals would have continuity unless the alarm was armed. But checking with my meter i find that the terminals have continuity until the key is in position 2 AND the clutch pedal is depressed. So when i take my foot off the clutch pedal, continuity is restored, and when i push the clutch, the alarm 'sees' the clutch depression and i hear a relay go and i lose continuity between the starter interrupt terminals on the alarm.

Strange right? I don't see how my alarm is 'seeing' the clutch interlock switch, and i don't know why the alarm would engage the starter interrupt with the alarm disarmed in any case.

Looking for a little expert insight, and thanks to those who know a lot on this site that consistently share with those who don't know so much at all.


Modified by jonahd at 8:25 PM 5/4/2008

 

More info...
MM&Y of car please?
What color is the starter lead you cut to install the starter kill?
Are you sure you have H3/1 and H3/2 connected in the "right direction", H3/1 should be on the ign. switch side and H3/2 goes to starter side. 94

 

Here's a little more info. 1994 Honda Accord.

I'm using the starter interrupt feature to run an ignition kill relay. The relay 86 pole is connected to H3/1, and H3/2 is grounded. I was thinking that the relay, with ignition wires across the relay (30 and 87 normally open), could be operated through the starter interrupt harness. Unarmed, therefore not interrupted would give me a ground on 86 and an operating ignition, and armed/interrupted i lose the ground and the relay cuts the ignition wire.

The relay is set up correctly. I ground the relay wire to H3/1 and the car starts, leave it open and it does not.

fcm, why do you say that the H3 harness has a right direction? The manual states that the wires (H3/1 and H3/2) are interchangeable, is the manual wrong?

I don't get how my alarm is aware of me depressing the clutch. I have an interlock switch kill also, but its to ground when armed and shouldn't give an input at all, right?

If i've learned anything from these DIY threads, its that alarm systems are very logical and almost simple in design, once you know how each component works. But this seems like magic. Pure magic.

Thanks for any good ideas on this fellas...

 

H3/1 and H3/2 should be interchangeable and the guide says so but they also show...
H3/1 black starter interrupt input
H3/2 black starter interrupt output

I can't see that it would make a diff. which way you do it.

What is #85 of the ign. kill relay connected to?

Most alarm starter cut relays, [built in or off board] are energized/open only if alarm is armed and ign. is turned on, [triggering alarm] or your cranking to start, about a 50/50 split.

#85 of a starter cut relay is connected to a "ground out when armed" and #86 is connected to either a "true" ign., [hot in run and start] or start, [hot in start only],
the Hornet 740T built in starter cut relays #86 is connected to a "true" ign.
Is the alarms yellow, [H1/9] connected to a "true" ign., [hot in run and start]

By the way, does the alarm trigger when you turn on the ign.?

As for the clutch interlock switch kill, I assume you mean #86, of a relay is connected to the orange "ground out when armed", [H1/1] but what is #85, connected to? 94

 

thanks for the info,
the #85 of the ign. kill relay is connected to H3/1, and H3/2 is grounded. #86 on both relays is looped back onto #30 (power side) (diodes between 85 and 86, current allowed towards 86). I think i connected #85 from the interlock switch kill relay to orange ground-when-armed.

I think you are on to something with the mechanism of the starter interrupt relay. I think its possible that my ignition source (yellow) or more likely my constant 12V (red) is not what i thought it is. As in perhaps i lose power to my constant 12v when the clutch is depressed, that could be possible. I'll check what my ign. feed does also with the clutch depressed.

The alarm doesn't trigger when i turn the ignition (with the alarm disarmed). Although i haven't checked with the alarm armed, and that may be what you are asking.

But why, with the alarm disarmed, would the starter interrupt relay click over even if the #86 isn't connected to a true ign.?

I'm going to recheck the yellow and red tomorrow and then i'll have a little more data, thanks for the help fcm.

good thing i have a winter beater...


Modified by jonahd at 10:25 AM 5/4/2008

 

OK let's start with the clutch interlock kill relay, does the CIS on a 94 Accord not work the same way as other Honda/Acura, supplying a ground to the coil on the starter relay, [when clutch depressed]?

Also, what color is the lead you cut at the CIS to install the kill relay on?

Yes I mean trigger when ign. is turned on with alarm armed.

I am not sure what your asking about the starter interrupt relay, however, any relay that does not have "true" ign. on #86, [or #85] with a ground or ground out when armed on the opposite side of the relays coil, [#85 or #86] will not work as a 2nd ign. is not hot when cranking to start, kind of like your radio, it cuts out when you crank to start.
In your case if your ign. kill relay is installed on the ign. lead, [black/yellow] with #30 in the ign. switch side and #86 is "looped back" to #30 then that relays coil has a "true" ign., #86 will stay hot when cranking and as long as #85 has a ground the relay will energize and open the circuit.

Back to the CIS kill relay, if it is the same as other Honda/Acura and the relay is installed on either the switches input, [black] or it's output, [blue/black] and #86 is "looped back" to #30 the relay can not work as there would be a ground on both #86 and #85, [ground out when armed].

BTW, the diode that is installed across #85 and #86 is only there to prevent arcing of the contact points in the relay, it does not prevent voltage or ground from going through the relays coil, EG; if you connect 12V+ to #86 and nothing to #85 and you meter #85 it will test as 12V+, the reverse is also true, connect a ground to #85 and test #86, [with nothing connected to it, or power is switched off] it will test as a ground, this is important if either, [or both] #86 and #85 is switched as in 12V+ switched ign. on #86 and ground out when armed on #85, when either side is switch off, that side becomes whatever is on the other side of the relays coil. 94

 

you're right you're right you're right,

my cis kill relay is wired incorrectly. It does lead to a continuous ground on both sides of 85 and 86. So after probing everything again, i found that my orange (ground when armed output) shows 12v unless i depress the clutch, and then it shows a ground, which makes sense seeing how i looped 86 back onto 30, which isn't a power source. Also i checked the cis relay (by grounding the orange) and it doesn't energize as it should and the starter engages like it shouldn't. Its all makes so much sense now.

Whats unexpected is that when you ground the orange with the key in and the alarmed disarmed, the starter interrupt relay goes and i lose continuity across h3/1 and h3/2. So i guess that means that not only will the tripped alarmed ground orange, but a grounded orange with the alarmed disarmed will also trip some parts of the alarm.

I'm pretty confident that if i wire my 86 to a true constant 12v that the cis relay will work and the starter interrupt issue won't reoccur. We'll see of course...

thanks fcm.