i just got sonyexplode speakers for the back of my car
i have a 2000 civic si how can i intall them

 

put it in the truck!?
hook up the speaker wire?
amp?

 

The rear dash panel will need to be removed. From there, we need to know what else is involved, such as routing from the amp or head unit? Are you going to replace aftermarket wiring? I assume it's just a drop-in replacement.

 

y did u get sony explode speakers? circuit city and best buy car audio is the devil

 

Yes why oh why do people buy this crap? If you can return them I would take them back and get some better speakers.

 

I agree, take those speakers back while you can. Get online, http://www.onlinecarstereo.com or http://www.sounddomain.com and get some good **** with no sales tax and free shipping. Wider selection, more knowledgable staff, still got ur warranty. If you're in a ballsy mood, get ur subs and amp off eBay, save hundreds, but you better not blow those subs!

 

AHAHHAHA
You guys are messed up.
He's got them already and jsut wants to know how to install them, leave him alone.
But seriously,
you just put them in, it involves these things called tools and there might be some "screwing" involved.

 

to all of those who and "flaming him" for buying rear speakers, give it a rest. he already made the mistake of buying rear speakers, he doesnt need to hear that he bought crappy ones too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EBP_SI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to all of those who and "flaming him" for buying rear speakers, give it a rest. he already made the mistake of buying rear speakers, he doesnt need to hear that he bought crappy ones too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
funny, you're flaming him too.
LOL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spider Man &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
funny, you're flaming him too.
LOL
</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol...yeah but it was a polite flame everyone flamed him, telling him to buy better speakers when putting rears in is just as bad as buying crappy speakers.

 

I'm surprised so many are against rear midrange. I agree that front components are a first, but the rears are nice final touch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Design &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm surprised so many are against rear midrange. I agree that front components are a first, but the rears are nice final touch.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no they're not. get a good set of components in the front and install them properly and rears will only make it sound worse.

 

Perhaps if they're two way+. But a good 6x9 woofer cone fills the 125-350 hz gap perfectly. And they image a little better than just components alone. Just my opinion though.

I guess it would depend on application too, such as DTS decoders and such. And I agree that quality makes a difference. I went with Premier components over 6 1/2 three-ways and they made a huge difference.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Design &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Perhaps if they're two way+. But a good 6x9 woofer cone fills the 125-350 hz gap perfectly. And they image a little better than just components alone. Just my opinion though. </TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry....where does this 125-350hz gap come from??

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I guess it would depend on application too, such as DTS decoders and such. And I agree that quality makes a difference. I went with Premier components over 6 1/2 three-ways and they made a huge difference. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree it depends on application but for normal stereo music 2 speakers is all you need. a good 3way front stage should provide excellent imaging. remember that a perfect stereo would have 2 speakers, 1 left, 1 right that will play the full range of frequencies.

 

Most speakers within the 100.00-200.00 range are designed for limited frequency spectrum. And many 5 1/4s drop off around 350hz. In my case, I had the EQ pushing at opposite ends of the pole between 250hz and 10mhz. Not so great for adjustability. Again, just my experience.

And two speaker nirvana? Yes. In a perfect world where car physics/seating arrangement don't contribute.

I want to emphasize that this discussion is centered on medium quality design and build (about 80% of users). Step up the ladder and these problems fade.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Design &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Most speakers within the 100.00-200.00 range are designed for limited frequency spectrum. And many 5 1/4s drop off around 350hz. In my case, I had the EQ pushing at opposite ends of the pole between 250hz and 10mhz. Not so great for adjustability. Again, just my experience.</TD></TR></TABLE>

can you tell me where you came up with this 350hz rolloff? I've 5 1/4" speakers playing 100hz steadily. cheap speakers arent designed for limited frequency play. they're designed to play the same frequencies but its the response and tonal balance that generally come with a higher price.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And two speaker nirvana? Yes. In a perfect world where car physics/seating arrangement don't contribute. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ok...so you're sitting a little to the left or a little to the right of center. i still dont see how putting speakers behind you is going to help. you should be setting up the system according to the source being played.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I want to emphasize that this discussion is centered on medium quality design and build (about 80% of users). Step up the ladder and these problems fade.</TD></TR></TABLE>

fair enough...but even with a medium quality system, if you followed the same logic as building a high end system, you'd have a much better system. i dont understand how people think that front stage only setups are so high end and they dont need that, they're just going to build a medium quality setup and change out all 4 main speakers and be happy. For the same money, better components and better sound quality could be had.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EBP_SI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

can you tell me where you came up with this 350hz rolloff? I've 5 1/4" speakers playing 100hz steadily. cheap speakers arent designed for limited frequency play. they're designed to play the same frequencies but its the response and tonal balance that generally come with a higher price. </TD></TR></TABLE>

100 hz? On what speakers? I've tested a variety of speakers (both 5 1/4 and 6 1/2) that all had similar limitations. Tested both inside and outside with the same results:

Boston Acoustics Pro 6.5 components
Premier TSC130-R
Alpine SPR-175A
MB Quart DSD 216
Diamond Audio M561
Pioneer TS-A1670R 3way (replaced)

With:
Premier DEHP9200R HU
Alpine CDA9833 HU

And:
Premier PRS-X720 4 Channel
Fosgate Punch 600A 4 Channel

They may play at that level but not without severe tweaking. Enter the TS-D690R two ways. I'm very particular on my music but have budget like everyone else. The right 6x9s do make a difference and are worth the investment.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Design &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

100 hz? On what speakers? I've tested a variety of speakers (both 5 1/4 and 6 1/2) that all had similar limitations. Tested both inside and outside with the same results:</TD></TR></TABLE>

So you're saying that most stock cars can't play 100hz? how exactly are you testing this? are you playing test tones or are you just picking what you think might be around 100hz?

I've got the alpine type x components and while they dont produce any bass they certainly will play 100hz without a problem. My old B&W center channel with 5 1/4 drivers had respectible bass reproduction given the driver size. i have a feeling you think 100hz is a lot lower than it actually is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The right 6x9s do make a difference and are worth the investment </TD></TR></TABLE>

isnt that money better spent on a stronger front stage? why spend $200 on components for the front and $200 for rear coax speakers when you can get a $400 component set for the front that would be a night and day difference. to me it only seems logical.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EBP_SI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

isnt that money better spent on a stronger front stage? why spend $200 on components for the front and $200 for rear coax speakers when you can get a $400 component set for the front that would be a night and day difference. to me it only seems logical.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed. Already went that route. Take a look at the list again.

And where did you get 400.00 from?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EBP_SI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So you're saying that most stock cars can't play 100hz? how exactly are you testing this? are you playing test tones or are you just picking what you think might be around 100hz?

I've got the alpine type x components and while they dont produce any bass they certainly will play 100hz without a problem. My old B&W center channel with 5 1/4 drivers had respectible bass reproduction given the driver size. i have a feeling you think 100hz is a lot lower than it actually is. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Inability to play 100hz? Read the post again. Just because you're satisfied with the output doesn't mean it's satisfactory for everyone else.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Design &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Agreed. Already went that route. Take a look at the list again.

And where did you get 400.00 from?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

well you said most speakers in the $100-$200 range so i assumed that if you're spending $200 on rear speakers, you would be spending $200 on the front speakers. $200 X 2 = $400

that also goes back to the statement you made previously about how adding 3ways will help the imaging which in fact they will not. they will do the opposite.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Inability to play 100hz? Read the post again. Just because you're satisfied with the output doesn't mean it's satisfactory for everyone else.</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol...and jsut how loud do you want to play those frequencies. if i can turn it up and hear it ouside the car its more than satifactory for me.

btw....you still didnt answer the question about determining how its 100hz.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EBP_SI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

well you said most speakers in the $100-$200 range so i assumed that if you're spending $200 on rear speakers, you would be spending $200 on the front speakers. $200 X 2 = $400

that also goes back to the statement you made previously about how adding 3ways will help the imaging which in fact they will not. they will do the opposite.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Really? Are you referring to this post?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Design &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I went with Premier components over 6 1/2 three-ways and they made a huge difference. </TD></TR></TABLE>

And doesn't "components" suggest that more of the "right" speakers in strategic locations do make a difference?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EBP_SI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
lol...and jsut how loud do you want to play those frequencies. if i can turn it up and hear it ouside the car its more than satifactory for me.

btw....you still didnt answer the question about determining how its 100hz.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And that would be the difference. I'm not conerned about blind judgement (I can hear it outside my car), rather quality and accuracy inside my car within the constraints of a budget. Why do think I listen to so many different types and matchups?

Second question was already covered with the P9200R with 13 band internal eq. Here's the post:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Design &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In my case, I had the EQ pushing at opposite ends of the pole between 250hz and 10mhz. Not so great for adjustability. Again, just my experience.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

At this point we're just going in circles. You can theorize all you want about what supposed to sound good and what doesn't. What's important is that what sounds "right" remains subjective. I just think people are too quick to assume that there is only one right way to build a system (e.g. rear speakers will only make it sound worse). I for one remain in disagreement.


Modified by Design at 7:19 AM 10/14/2004


Modified by Design at 7:24 AM 10/14/2004

 

Just to clear a few things up in this thread, for anyone who might be taking everything in and not sure which way to go.

Any driver thats 4" or bigger with at least 2-3Liter (small) of air volume behind it will play down to 100-150Hz. 2"-3" drivers will only be able to go down to 150Hz-200Hz comfortably before excursion becomes the limiting factor.

Even most cheap 5.25" drivers will have a Fs (Free air resonant frequency) of at least 100Hz, so it will be able to extend down to the 150Hz range quit easily.

However one thing that can mess with this area, is things like the shape and size of plane (baffle) thats its mounted on. Something with irregular shapes, protrusions, or textures (door panels), or just small baffles (such as 6x9 enclosures) can introduce random peaks and valleys into the response in the midrange to mid bass area (200-500Hz). This sometimes referred to as Baffle Step, or Edge Diffraction

Another thing to remember is that usually drivers in cars are listened to at severe off axis angles. A speaker in a door panel can easily be at a 45*-60* angle from the listeners ears. Which can have more of an effect than you may think.

Here are some graphs of typical responses. Both are in free air, meaning they have no enclosure, so the bass rolls off at about 200Hz. This is typical to just about any speaker that doens't controll the back air from meeting the front air somehow. This is often referred to a Free Air, Open Baffle, and Dipole

The first is a 4" driver. Descent quality. Note that the 200-1K area is pretty smooth, indicating that in an enclosure of even a couple liters this driver could easly extend to 100Hz. However notice that towards the end there are two graphs. One indicates directly on axis, and the other would be moving your ear 30* off axis of the driver. This particular driver besides having some nasty breakup near the top has a considerable off-axis response difference. So you can see how a cars enviornment could heavily affect this.




Here is a descent budget 5.25" driver. Again notice that the 200-1K area is pretty smooth, with some breakup up top, but also notice that the off-axis tracks the on-axis much better in this driver. So although this driver would definently need a tweeter, listening with your head in the floorboard and listening while driving may actually provide a similar experience.




Most car manufacturers unfortionanlty do not provide the necassary parameters to use a driver to its full capabilties. Often they only provide a "generic" box design, or only include response graphs indicating padded on-axis response to make the product look really good, however due to the quality of the product, what you hear may be a totally different thing.


As for my stance...if rears are there, so be it. I could really care less about trying to perfect the audio response inside the equivalency of a large metal speaker box (home is different IMHO). So the extra ambience is fine to me, just let it be ambience, and not overpowering. Plus the extra surface area of the &lt;normally&gt; larger drivers in the back help fill in the sound. Also one good thing about a speaker at each corner, is that you can balance from left to right, to make the image in the center of the car, then fade it back a little if needed to make it centered to your listening position....just something to use if needed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Design &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Really? Are you referring to this post?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

nope...i'm refering to this post

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Design &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Perhaps if they're two way+. But a good 6x9 woofer cone fills the 125-350 hz gap perfectly. And they image a little better than just components alone. Just my opinion though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Design &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and doesn't "components" suggest that more of the "right" speakers in strategic locations do make a difference?</TD></TR></TABLE>

what exactly do you mean by this?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Design &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And that would be the difference. I'm not conerned about blind judgement (I can hear it outside my car), rather quality and accuracy inside my car within the constraints of a budget. Why do think I listen to so many different types and matchups?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

You still dont get what i'm saying do you. you say all this nonsense about quality and accuracy while on a budget but you're totally ignoring the fact that i'm saying to take a minimalist approach and forget about buying rear speakers. let me as you a question....when you go shopping for clothes are you going to buy 2 POS shirts or would you buy 1 nice one for the same price as the 2 POS shirts? 1 set of good speakers for the front of the car is better than 2 sets of crap for the front and back. ever heard the saying 2 wrongs dont make a right?? 2 shitty speakers wont give you the same response as 1 good one.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Design &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Second question was already covered with the P9200R with 13 band internal eq. Here's the post:</TD></TR></TABLE>

no...that says you're using an EQ....an equalizer does not actually measure anything. whether or not i'm making a blind statement or not by saying i can hear it outside my car or not doenst matter because you were saying that 6 1/2" and 5 1/4" speakers can not produce below 350hz which is total bs. whether or not you like to boost that specific range on your EQ because it sounds better to you doenst mean that the speakers can not produce that range....it just means you have a warped sense of what sounds good. have you ever listen to a reference level system?