Ok I just installed my 2 12" subs and when listening to at normal volumes they are fine when you turn them up fairly loud they are fine when you turn them up to where they are really loud and will hurt your ears the cd player starts skipping although it doesn't look like it vibrates that much. Any ideas how to fix this. I don't know whats up with it as when giong on ruff roads its better than my Alpine in my truck when it comes to which one skips less and you can hit the console and make it shake and it is fine yet the bass makes it start skipping and it doesn't vibrate that much. I don't have it braced in the back though which I'm thinking could be it but I just dont get it. It is a JVC Aresonal HU about 2 years old well almost 2 years old. Any ideas whats wrong and how to fix it? It just bothers me knowing it will skip.


Modified by hometheaterman at 1:28 PM 5/23/2005

 

id brace it. it sounds like your problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by youraquickone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">id brace it. it sounds like your problem.</TD></TR></TABLE> Ditto that the HU should be braced anyway, [good and solid] 94

 

How do you brace it? I mean what do I brace it too?

 

Ok nevermind it is braced into the kit and everthing. I took it out again as I wanted to install a switch to turn the amp off when listening to to am radio so it wouldn't hum and I just taped into the remote turn on wire. While I had it out I hooked it up and set it on the seat which is soft well It still did the skipping when turned up loud yet it wasn't really vibrating if it was it was very little I mean seriously it would vibrate a lot more just going down the road which it does fine. What I'm thinking it is now which I thought it might be before but was hoping it wasn't is that it is getting power surges making it skip as when turned up really loud like that you can notice the lights dim slightly not much but slightly. I'm thinking when it does this it just pauses for a second while it looses some power and appears to be skipping. To take car of this would I just add a cap or would I need to add a second batter or differnt alternator? I don't turn it up that loud often but do everyonce and a while just when showing it to people. My amp is 500 watts rms and 1000 peak I didn't think I Would need to change electrical stuff but I guess I do.

 

Would this be what I need? http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Q...3#Tab
Or should I go with something like this?
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Q...LS103

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hometheaterman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would this be what I need? http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Q...3#Tab
Or should I go with something like this?
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Q...LS103</TD></TR></TABLE> The general rule is 1 farad for every 500watts, so I would use #2

Upgrading the alt. and batt. can't hurt, the alt. is the only thing that is going to give you any more power though, and is the single best thing you can do when drawing more power. The stock alt. is only about 10% bigger then it needs to be, if the car draws 65A, [everything on, full] an 80A alt. is ok, but then you add another 30A-40A draw, you can see how that would be a problem, it's hard on the batt. it's hard on the alt. it's also hard on the amp and speakers, and it has it's effect on SQ.

You may just be right about power on the HU, but a drob in power, rather then a surge, but sub bass "vibrates" things differantly then bumps in the road.

The back of the HU should be braced the same way that the OEM HU was, to the dash subframe, it should be solid enough so the back of the HU can't move any more then the front does, [not at all] 94

 

I'm pretty sure it isn't vibration although it could possibly be I guess but I'm pretty sure it isn't. Well my grandfather came over who is an electrical engineer to help me look at it we started testing it with a meter to see if it went way down when the bass hit. Well it started working fine while he was here and seemed to so far after he left. It did take a big dive 2 or 3 amps when the bass hit though testing it at the hu testing it at the battery it barely moved though. He told me it was hard to tell what was causing skipping without it doing it but that maybe try running the HU ground to the battery directly and see if it fixes it as he thought somehow the grounds may be connected and it drawing a lot more currenty at the amp and messing with the HU's power. I ran a wire from the battery ground to the HU ground and the humming on the AM stations seems to have stopped now and I didn't hear it skip any but I haven't really had time to mess with it much so it may still do it although it didn't skip when he was here with the like they were before. The lights still dim a little when it hits though if I have it turned up although I will rarely turn it up that high. I don't know whats causing it but I really think it may be electrical. I mean I can hit the center console and have the radio shaking and it not skip same with flying up dirt roads and stuff although with the bass you can't see it move and it skips and I tried it with the HU out in the seat making sure it didn't really move and still did it. I Really just think it is wiring but I could be wrong. Would the cap fix the problems I'm having or should I get a differnt alternator instead? I would like to only get the cap as it is cheap but don't know if I should.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hometheaterman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm pretty sure it isn't vibration although it could possibly be I guess but I'm pretty sure it isn't. Well my grandfather came over who is an electrical engineer to help me look at it we started testing it with a meter to see if it went way down when the bass hit. Well it started working fine while he was here and seemed to so far after he left. It did take a big dive 2 or 3 amps when the bass hit though testing it at the hu testing it at the battery it barely moved though. He told me it was hard to tell what was causing skipping without it doing it but that maybe try running the HU ground to the battery directly and see if it fixes it as he thought somehow the grounds may be connected and it drawing a lot more currenty at the amp and messing with the HU's power. I ran a wire from the battery ground to the HU ground and the humming on the AM stations seems to have stopped now and I didn't hear it skip any but I haven't really had time to mess with it much so it may still do it although it didn't skip when he was here with the like they were before. The lights still dim a little when it hits though if I have it turned up although I will rarely turn it up that high. I don't know whats causing it but I really think it may be electrical. I mean I can hit the center console and have the radio shaking and it not skip same with flying up dirt roads and stuff although with the bass you can't see it move and it skips and I tried it with the HU out in the seat making sure it didn't really move and still did it. I Really just think it is wiring but I could be wrong. Would the cap fix the problems I'm having or should I get a differnt alternator instead? I would like to only get the cap as it is cheap but don't know if I should. </TD></TR></TABLE>If you are using the oem ground and the ant. is plugged in and you backbrace the HU to a ground, [dash sub frame] then you should have a good enough groung for the HU, but running a power wire, [10ga or 12ga] from the batt. to behind the HU and hooking the HUs yellow wire to it will help get power to the HU, and yes a cap will help 94