what type of rca's are you running?

i am debating between Streetwires ZN6 (about $65-114 for 16 footer)


or Tsunami Audio 10.9 ($40-80 for 17 footer)


or anything else you guys might recommend?

 

Although overpriced IMO, Monster makes very good car audio interconnect.. http://www.monstercable.com/home_av/ it's going to depend on what you have for a HU S/P amps. Using $50-$100 interconnect to get the signal from a $200 HU to a $200 sub amp, IMO, would be pointless, but a must if you have a "top of the line" HU and good quality "high end" S/P and/or amps, would be just as pointless to install a $15 set of RCAs into a "high end" system as it would a $100 set into a "entry level" system, although, if I had to, I would use the $100 set in the "entry level system before I use the $15 set in the "high end" system.

For those that don't believe that RCA quality makes a diff. install a $15 set on one side and a $100 set on the other and then check the SQ on the left and right, that's what I do to show customers the diff., we will just run a $15 set over the seats and things directly to the amp in one of our demo cars, [that all run, good quality interconnect] so they can hear the diff. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Although overpriced IMO, Monster makes very good car audio interconnect.. http://www.monstercable.com/home_av/ it's going to depend on what you have for a HU S/P amps. Using $50-$100 interconnect to get the signal from a $200 HU to a $200 sub amp, IMO, would be pointless, but a must if you have a "top of the line" HU and good quality "high end" S/P and/or amps, would be just as pointless to install a $15 set of RCAs into a "high end" system as it would a $100 set into a "entry level" system, although, if I had to, I would use the $100 set in the "entry level system before I use the $15 set in the "high end" system.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd recommend looking into monster cables business practices before buying any of their products. I know a lot of people who will no longer buy their products becuase of this.

 

are you handy with a soldering iron?do you have any sort of electronics surplus stores around?(or you could order the wire from one of these companies,www.solen.ca or http://www.meniscus.com)you can make your own,what you want to look for is twisted conductors(if you twist it yourself,do no more than one turn per inch,if you do more, you take the chance of creating a capacitor effect(roll off the highs)the conductors should be equal in size and mass,that is one of the reasons twisted cables do so well,you take a cheap 15.00 cable apart and seperate the conductors,typically the center conductor is tiny little few strands wire,while the outer is usally larger and surrounds the center conductor,not good for exposure to auto environment (electrical noise),sorry to ramble on but it helps to explain.if you make your own,use conductors of equal size and mass,what you really want if you can find it is silver plated oxygen free copper,with a teflon dielectric,pvc will work just not the best,(pvc insulation is what youll find on most primary wire),the twisted part of the rca is what helps with noise rejection,and sq,by twisting the cable you create an even magnetic field within the cable,which helps cancel noise and you also have an inductance which helps with sound q,as far as rca ends go,any good solid connection rca will work,although the purer the plating(gold)the better the signal transfer.you can twist the wire with a cordless drill,just try to keep the turns even.i have built these style of cables for many competition and high end customers vehicles,youll save yourself a heap o money,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Although overpriced IMO, Monster makes very good car audio interconnect.. http://www.monstercable.com/home_av/ it's going to depend on what you have for a HU S/P amps. Using $50-$100 interconnect to get the signal from a $200 HU to a $200 sub amp, IMO, would be pointless, but a must if you have a "top of the line" HU and good quality "high end" S/P and/or amps, would be just as pointless to install a $15 set of RCAs into a "high end" system as it would a $100 set into a "entry level" system, although, if I had to, I would use the $100 set in the "entry level system before I use the $15 set in the "high end" system.

For those that don't believe that RCA quality makes a diff. install a $15 set on one side and a $100 set on the other and then check the SQ on the left and right, that's what I do to show customers the diff., we will just run a $15 set over the seats and things directly to the amp in one of our demo cars, [that all run, good quality interconnect] so they can hear the diff. 94 </TD></TR></TABLE>

this is my setup:
Clarion DXZ635MP head unit
Infinity Kappa 60.7cs 6.5" comp
Infinity Kappa 62.7i 6.5 coaxial
Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1 (4 ohm, single voice)
JL Audio 500/5

 

thanks for the info, but i kinda suck at soldering

 

I run Stinger Dream series in my car and love them.

I have an Eclipse 5504
Precision Power EQP
JL Audio 300/4
MB Quart PKC 116 Reference series 6.5" Coax
JL Audio 13" W1 sub

I did the RCA's and the Precision Power EQP at the same time and it made a huge difference.

 

monster, bought it at frys when they were discontinued.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suzawa94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

this is my setup:
Clarion DXZ635MP head unit
Infinity Kappa 60.7cs 6.5" comp
Infinity Kappa 62.7i 6.5 coaxial
Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1 (4 ohm, single voice)
JL Audio 500/5</TD></TR></TABLE> The stuff you posted should do just fine, but do you need 16 -17 footers, If you run the RCAs down the center of car, and you should, I can't see you needing anything longer then 12 ft, unless the amp is mounted a the very back of the car, or are we talking about some american 4 door land yacht here. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The stuff you posted should do just fine, but do you need 16 -17 footers, If you run the RCAs down the center of car, and you should, I can't see you needing anything longer then 12 ft, unless the amp is mounted a the very back of the car, or are we talking about some american 4 door land yacht here. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

it's going in a 96 gsr 2dr. i plan on the amp being in the spare tire well-either the fuel pump side or the taillight side. i'm pretty sure my teg is similar. i had a 94 civic coupe and ran the wires under/through the passenger side. there were some holes/cutouts on the seat mounting brace that i ran wires. i forgot what size rca's i ran in that car

 

I have a 94 LS the batt. is on the pass. side, so you will want to run the power wire on that side, and the drivers side is the "power" side, you don,'t want to run your RCAs with any power wires, you also want to keep all wires and cables as short as possible, not hard to remove the pass. seat so carpet can be folded over so wires can be run down center of car, you need to remove the rear seat and kick panel and sill trim anyway. 94

 

so are the rcas 12 footers?

 

I normaly use 12' in tegs if the amp is mounted behind or on back of rear seat, have even used 10' in some cases, [long pig tails on HU, and inputs on amp facing forward], if your not sure use some string and run it along the route you plan on running the RCAs follow all the bends and curves, make sure there is some slack for service, [so you can pull HU and or move amp a little] you don't want the interconnect to be too tight any more then you want too much excess. 94