question about a WALL
with a wall of say, 4 15s facing forward, is it ridiculously loud even facing in open air? like if i took out the back seats and faced them forward, would the added subs make it sound better than a single or double sub that would sound craoppy in the same set up
i saw some 15 inch punch old school XLCS for cheap
thinking of a wall i'd take out when ready, run all 4 at 1ohm on my 1100D
does it have to be ported? id prefer sealed, do the subs have to be spaced? is the vibration less in the vehicle? because of the forward facing? can the wall be succesfully faced backwards?
thanks
i saw some 15 inch punch old school XLCS for cheap
thinking of a wall i'd take out when ready, run all 4 at 1ohm on my 1100D
does it have to be ported? id prefer sealed, do the subs have to be spaced? is the vibration less in the vehicle? because of the forward facing? can the wall be succesfully faced backwards?
thanks
To answer your questions in order...
Yes it is rediculously loud if done properly...
No, it doesn't have to be ported but it needs to be to get it to sound right...
spaced? As in what kind of spacing???
Vibration is the same or often greater, just less noise because of the lack of "trunk funk"...
No, you cannot face a wall backward, there's nothing to fire into if it's faced backward...unless you are talking about a half-wall, which is completely different...
You need to know a lot about tuning frequencies/resonant frequencies to get a wall to sound truly great, or at least have someone willing to crunch the #'s for you...unless you just want a wall to be able to say you have a wall.
What vehicle will this be going in? I know a thing or two about walls so if you're serious I might be able to help ya. Walls are the way to go if you want killer bass as long as you don't mind sacrificing drivability/space. I did 8 12's ported in my TransAm, tuned down to 28 Hz, and it just plain rips, it'll about make you sick at full tilt. License plate is "I SHAKER" for a reason.
Yes it is rediculously loud if done properly...
No, it doesn't have to be ported but it needs to be to get it to sound right...
spaced? As in what kind of spacing???
Vibration is the same or often greater, just less noise because of the lack of "trunk funk"...
No, you cannot face a wall backward, there's nothing to fire into if it's faced backward...unless you are talking about a half-wall, which is completely different...
You need to know a lot about tuning frequencies/resonant frequencies to get a wall to sound truly great, or at least have someone willing to crunch the #'s for you...unless you just want a wall to be able to say you have a wall.
What vehicle will this be going in? I know a thing or two about walls so if you're serious I might be able to help ya. Walls are the way to go if you want killer bass as long as you don't mind sacrificing drivability/space. I did 8 12's ported in my TransAm, tuned down to 28 Hz, and it just plain rips, it'll about make you sick at full tilt. License plate is "I SHAKER" for a reason.
wow
what i meant about spacing is the distance between all the subs, if they could be close to one another
its a suzuki vitara but i wouldnt want to takle out the back seat, so the wall would have to be 12 inches wide, but id try and make up for that with the height and width
i was hoping i could still see through the glass but if it was that small the subs would be in small enclosures, thats why id want it sealed, why does it have to be ported to sound good?
and could i do a 'mini' wall that doesnt stick up over the seats? then id have to use 10s or 12s i guess, id stuff 4 of them in there, but id need some subs that can sound good in small enclosures, id try 4 comp vrs maybe, i just want everything facing forward
what i meant about spacing is the distance between all the subs, if they could be close to one another
its a suzuki vitara but i wouldnt want to takle out the back seat, so the wall would have to be 12 inches wide, but id try and make up for that with the height and width
i was hoping i could still see through the glass but if it was that small the subs would be in small enclosures, thats why id want it sealed, why does it have to be ported to sound good?
and could i do a 'mini' wall that doesnt stick up over the seats? then id have to use 10s or 12s i guess, id stuff 4 of them in there, but id need some subs that can sound good in small enclosures, id try 4 comp vrs maybe, i just want everything facing forward
Okay, distance between the subs doesn't matter for the most part, distance between a sub and a port does matter however, as if you get the sub too close to the port you will develop "port noise", where the sub's movement interferes with the operation of the port.
And while you can and often do end up with good sound out of a sealed wall, it is nothing compared to a ported wall. Whereas there is only minor differences between sealed/ported in a trunk, the differences are massive when in a wall.
For one, the subs are firing into a much larger quantity of air, this necessitates having more air behind the sub in the enclosure. Ideally there is no one "perfect enclosure" for a sub, as the sub will perform differently in different situations while still in the same box.
For instance, I usually think of sub enclosures in terms of ratios (I know, I know, fractions suck a$$). Now if you take your sealed trunk enclosure and figure out the ratios comparing internal dimensions to environmental dimensions....you will find that as long as you keep the ratios the same, very little will change in the subs performance other than it needing more or less power to get the same output.
However, lets say these ratios are 1:3 for cubic feet in your trunk, 1:2 for internal depth compared to how far the wave travels before deflecting (your trunk lid), and if it were a ported enclosure I would have ratios for port displacement:net enclosure displacement, and port area:port length...but I'm keeping it simple and sealed.
Now, you take that same enclosure and fire it forward in an SUV, the ratios now are more like 1:30 and 1:20. Your sub now reacts very differently, as it has MUCH more pressure build-up and therefore physical resistance behind the enclosure compared to in front of the enclosure. It will tend to have far too much outward excursion compared to its internal excursion. Not only that but the distance before the wave reflects will change the sub's relative resonant frequency. In other words, it won't sound near as good.
If you matched the ratios though, it would sound mostly the same but require less power to have the same output...but too big is bad because it gets too close to free-air and will allow spikes in the signal to fry the sub easily as it will tend to have too much excursion in both directions.
Basically though, ported is a way to custom-tune these large forward-facing enclosures without sacrificing in most regards, and while you give up space you gain much more output and an overall better and lower sound out of the enclosure.
Well, I hope that sounds somewhat coherent, I'm pretty sloshed right now which is why I wrote a lot and rambled on. Hope it helps though!
And while you can and often do end up with good sound out of a sealed wall, it is nothing compared to a ported wall. Whereas there is only minor differences between sealed/ported in a trunk, the differences are massive when in a wall.
For one, the subs are firing into a much larger quantity of air, this necessitates having more air behind the sub in the enclosure. Ideally there is no one "perfect enclosure" for a sub, as the sub will perform differently in different situations while still in the same box.
For instance, I usually think of sub enclosures in terms of ratios (I know, I know, fractions suck a$$). Now if you take your sealed trunk enclosure and figure out the ratios comparing internal dimensions to environmental dimensions....you will find that as long as you keep the ratios the same, very little will change in the subs performance other than it needing more or less power to get the same output.
However, lets say these ratios are 1:3 for cubic feet in your trunk, 1:2 for internal depth compared to how far the wave travels before deflecting (your trunk lid), and if it were a ported enclosure I would have ratios for port displacement:net enclosure displacement, and port area:port length...but I'm keeping it simple and sealed.
Now, you take that same enclosure and fire it forward in an SUV, the ratios now are more like 1:30 and 1:20. Your sub now reacts very differently, as it has MUCH more pressure build-up and therefore physical resistance behind the enclosure compared to in front of the enclosure. It will tend to have far too much outward excursion compared to its internal excursion. Not only that but the distance before the wave reflects will change the sub's relative resonant frequency. In other words, it won't sound near as good.
If you matched the ratios though, it would sound mostly the same but require less power to have the same output...but too big is bad because it gets too close to free-air and will allow spikes in the signal to fry the sub easily as it will tend to have too much excursion in both directions.
Basically though, ported is a way to custom-tune these large forward-facing enclosures without sacrificing in most regards, and while you give up space you gain much more output and an overall better and lower sound out of the enclosure.
Well, I hope that sounds somewhat coherent, I'm pretty sloshed right now which is why I wrote a lot and rambled on. Hope it helps though!
Originally Posted by Phat_Jax
Okay, distance between the subs doesn't matter for the most part, distance between a sub and a port does matter however, as if you get the sub too close to the port you will develop "port noise", where the sub's movement interferes with the operation of the port.
Originally Posted by Phat_Jax
And while you can and often do end up with good sound out of a sealed wall, it is nothing compared to a ported wall. Whereas there is only minor differences between sealed/ported in a trunk, the differences are massive when in a wall.
i don't think id need to go ported becuse the bass would be more than enough!
Originally Posted by Phat_Jax
For one, the subs are firing into a much larger quantity of air, this necessitates having more air behind the sub in the enclosure. Ideally there is no one "perfect enclosure" for a sub, as the sub will perform differently in different situations while still in the same box.
For instance, I usually think of sub enclosures in terms of ratios (I know, I know, fractions suck a$$). Now if you take your sealed trunk enclosure and figure out the ratios comparing internal dimensions to environmental dimensions....you will find that as long as you keep the ratios the same, very little will change in the subs performance other than it needing more or less power to get the same output.
However, lets say these ratios are 1:3 for cubic feet in your trunk, 1:2 for internal depth compared to how far the wave travels before deflecting (your trunk lid), and if it were a ported enclosure I would have ratios for port displacement:net enclosure displacement, and port area:port length...but I'm keeping it simple and sealed.
Now, you take that same enclosure and fire it forward in an SUV, the ratios now are more like 1:30 and 1:20. Your sub now reacts very differently, as it has MUCH more pressure build-up and therefore physical resistance behind the enclosure compared to in front of the enclosure. It will tend to have far too much outward excursion compared to its internal excursion. Not only that but the distance before the wave reflects will change the sub's relative resonant frequency. In other words, it won't sound near as good.
If you matched the ratios though, it would sound mostly the same but require less power to have the same output...but too big is bad because it gets too close to free-air and will allow spikes in the signal to fry the sub easily as it will tend to have too much excursion in both directions.
Basically though, ported is a way to custom-tune these large forward-facing enclosures without sacrificing in most regards, and while you give up space you gain much more output and an overall better and lower sound out of the enclosure.
Well, I hope that sounds somewhat coherent, I'm pretty sloshed right now which is why I wrote a lot and rambled on. Hope it helps though!
For instance, I usually think of sub enclosures in terms of ratios (I know, I know, fractions suck a$$). Now if you take your sealed trunk enclosure and figure out the ratios comparing internal dimensions to environmental dimensions....you will find that as long as you keep the ratios the same, very little will change in the subs performance other than it needing more or less power to get the same output.
However, lets say these ratios are 1:3 for cubic feet in your trunk, 1:2 for internal depth compared to how far the wave travels before deflecting (your trunk lid), and if it were a ported enclosure I would have ratios for port displacement:net enclosure displacement, and port area:port length...but I'm keeping it simple and sealed.
Now, you take that same enclosure and fire it forward in an SUV, the ratios now are more like 1:30 and 1:20. Your sub now reacts very differently, as it has MUCH more pressure build-up and therefore physical resistance behind the enclosure compared to in front of the enclosure. It will tend to have far too much outward excursion compared to its internal excursion. Not only that but the distance before the wave reflects will change the sub's relative resonant frequency. In other words, it won't sound near as good.
If you matched the ratios though, it would sound mostly the same but require less power to have the same output...but too big is bad because it gets too close to free-air and will allow spikes in the signal to fry the sub easily as it will tend to have too much excursion in both directions.
Basically though, ported is a way to custom-tune these large forward-facing enclosures without sacrificing in most regards, and while you give up space you gain much more output and an overall better and lower sound out of the enclosure.
Well, I hope that sounds somewhat coherent, I'm pretty sloshed right now which is why I wrote a lot and rambled on. Hope it helps though!

ahh lovely
fractions rock dudeok my vitara is actually very small. and with the wall behind the back seats it will react more like a hatch, the ports would be dirrectly blowing into the back of the seats as well, thats no good either
im pretty sloshed too, but not from drink
so ill just rant like you did
ive been loking at the space and realised its kind of small, so i might build adpaters for the back seats to be moved forward flush with the front ones, no one sits in the back anyway, this would give me much more room to play with, and i think i can fit four sort of on top of each other in a zig zag way 0o0o you know, to make them fit
then i would seal the **** out of them
ive faced single subs forward in my jeep already, and they sounded good, the l5 especially and the 15 cvr, i loooove the way the seat flexex when the bass comes through
as i said the subs are old punch xlcs and i had 2 of them as my FIRST real bass in my LIFE!
i loved them and im sure the 15s would sound good in the right set up
they are on sale for like 60 bucks i guess, could get them for less if i buy all at once, but i wanted to try one first, just to make sure
i hope in the manual the smallest sealed size is one cubic foot, lol
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