Hey security gurus. I just got a Python 574 (going into a 98 LS with a B18C1 swap) and I'm going to have a ton of questions about the install, I'm sure. I am planning on doing a FULL stealth install while I am replacing the interior on my LS.

I'll post all my questions here, but before doing that I'll try to answer my questions by searching as well as I can. That said, my first question is this:

On the newer DEI alarms, the valet switch is built into the antenna "control center." I'd like to hide the antenna and relocate the valet switch (since it won't be accessible with the antenna hidden). How do I do this? Should I just splice a switch into the switch wire that goes to the control center? If so, which wire is it?

On a related note, what would be a good wire to tap for a lit-while-armed LED? Would a relay on the H1/6 (orange - ground when armed) wire be best?

Sorry if these are dumb questions. I've been working on Hondas for over a decade but I still find electronics to be mystifying and intimidating. Thanks in advance, everybody, for your patience.

 

Bump.

Anyone know how to relocate the valet switch and/or LED on a DEI 6711T control center? Teh internets says it's possible but I don't know how. There is no 2-pin blue plug on the brain.

 

You can use the orange, [GWA] output to run an LED, however, you will not have "trouble codes", [LED playback].

I would remove the LED in the ant, [Comand Center], extend the leads and mount the LED where you want, you can do the same with the switch, but with the switch I would just parallel a second switch to the one in the CC.

Not sure if you can parallel a second LED, you would first need the same voltage LED, but I am still not sure if the extra load would work, [not damage LED "drive"].

I have also installed ant. with valet switchs on them, under the head liner, [faceing down, glued a rubber, "nub" to the head liner so it lines up with the valet switch/button so all I have to do is press the head liner in that general area to press the valet switch on the ant.

I have a "kill switch" hidden behind triming so I can activate a latching relay by pressing the trim, "stealth kill switch". 94

 

thanks fcm

The headliner idea occurred to me (as did some others I will not mention, lol). OFC it would be nice to have the trouble codes so I should still relocate the LED.

Based on what you say I assume it's safe to take apart the antenna. Does it just snap together? Or are there screws behind the adhesive?

 

Sorry, not sure about those ant., most I have seen either snap together or are glued together, either way not a big deal.

BTW I have a question, or a few questions...

Is that your dog in your avitar?

Is that snow on the ground?

Was the pic taken in the Reno "area"?

If so, where in the Reno "area" do you get snow? 94

 

It was super easy to unsnap. Unfortunately I can't make sense of the circuitboard. Do you have a pinout?

To answer your questions:

- That is my dog. Her name is "Sophie," and she's a great pyrenees / walker hound cross. Her dad was a hunting dog who leaped a fence at a pyrenees kennel and caused some trouble LOL. Rather than putting down the pups the owner did the right thing and reared them before donating them to a Humane Society in ID. They couldn't find anyone to take the litter and were going to kill them. The Missoula Humane Society got wind of it and took the them. That's how we found her. She was 7 months old and a kennel dog her whole life when we brought her home.

- It's snow, on a hike we took in the mountains just east of Missoula, Montana, before we moved to Nevada.

- Reno gets a few snowfalls a year but nothing impressive. And it melts in a few days usually. The Sierras just west of the city get feet of snow (best skiing in the lower 48 -- at Lake Tahoe which is just about 40 minutes from Reno). The desert mountains to the east of town get snow, but even at 8000 feet the inversions that develop over the valleys are strong enough to keep it off for most of the winter.

You thinking of moving to Reno or just curious?

 

Sorry, I do not have a pin out, check with wrx-killer-Sti-eater, he is a DEI dealer.

I thought Reno was in the desert, or is that Las Vagas so that's why the snow question.

I thought it was a Great Pyrenees cross.

I also have two "rescued" dogs, Zack the 110lb Bernese Mountain Dog , I went to the SPCA to get a small short-hair, Zack was unadoptable due to mistreatment and was due to be put down, I would not leave untill I convinced them to let me have him, not exactly the small short-hair I was looking for.
Ginny is a Shetland Sheepdog I got from a Sheltie Rescue Program here in B.C., she was rescued from a puppy mill, also due to be put down as her litters where small.94

 

I tested some of the pins with a multimeter to find the switch, and it looks like the switch affects resistance on two pins. So it seems like it's integrated with the circuitry somehow. It makes me wonder if it's set to affect the LED. Does the LED turn on when the valet switch is pressed?

If so adding a separate switch might not be as straightforward as parallel wiring a new switch.

I'll see if wrx-killer-Sti-eater can help! But I'll give him a few days before I bug him because I'm sure he's a busy guy! Thanks for your help so far fcm -- I'm sure I'll have more questions for you.

I think all my dogs will be rescues. I can't escape the feeling that if I just went out and bought a dog I'd be indirectly killing one at a pound somewhere

 

Been getting my/our dogs from the SPCA, [dog pound in the old days] since 1957 when we moved from Sweden, I miss the old days, you paid for a dog license, [$2 or less] and that was it, now, up here anyway, it's $299 plus a licance, $39. 94

 

OK new question!

I will be able to connect all the extra sensors directly to the 4-pin sockets on the alarm brain.

Does that mean I don't need to diode-isolate the green trunk wire and blue backup battery wires I'm connecting to the H2/19 "Tunk Pin/Instant Trigger Input"?

In MT you could get dogs for free. Which meant some people got them without thinking it through and then abandoned them in the mountains . Forcing people to pay for them might help weed out the very irresponsible owners :/

 

You must still diode isolate the trunk/hatch light from the blue lead of the back up batt.

If the trunk/hatch light is on the ground circuit of the blue lead and the back up batt. is triggered, [main power disconnected] the low current ground output of the back up batt., [blue lead] will ground the trunk/hatch light, turning it on, because the light requires more current, [more ground] then the back up batt. can supply, two things can/will happen, the alarm may not trigger, [not "enough" ground left] and back up batt. trigger circuit may be damaged, [trunk/hatch light is too much of a load for the back up batt. trigger circuit]. 94

 

Well it turns out I am going to be running a sensor to the blue wire after all! I just can't count :/

I also heard back from wrx-killer. The grey wire controls the button and the pink wire controls the LED. So I can just repin them and I can move the LED and valet button anywhere I want, and hide the antenna.

 

94