putin Sub amps on a toggle switch??
I am running a Multi Amp sytem with Subs and Highs and mids... Is there a way where I Put a toggle switch to my dash and control the amps for my subs... I am a man of Different music. Tecno and Rap... The tecno I use no bass, But Rap on the other hand I quake the chit out of it.... How would the wiring go, I wanna put 2 amps, my 2 bass amps on a toogle switch either on the dash or in the trunk, I have 6 Sony mobile Es 6.5s 4 Rockford Fosgate 4" 4 2" tweets
You'd prob want the toggle switch to be connected in line with the remote wire for the sub amps. This way, when you hit the toggle, no remote signal (+12v) will goto the sub amps, and when it's down it'll let the remote (+12v) pass.
In case you need clarification, the remote wire is the really thin one, and it goes from your deck to the subs. You may have to run a second remote wire if you have an amp for your mids and highs.
Hope this helps!
In case you need clarification, the remote wire is the really thin one, and it goes from your deck to the subs. You may have to run a second remote wire if you have an amp for your mids and highs.
Hope this helps!
ok. Your remote wire (the blue one)...if theres power in it, it basically turns on whatever amp is connected to it.
The blue wire is coming from your head unit. I don't know about your setup..but you either have one, and then it's split to all the amps, or you have five (most likely one!)
what you need to do is splice the blue wire BEFORE the planned splice for the switch, and run that new wire to your internal speaker amps Only!.
By that time, you'll have your old blue wire connecting only to your sub amp's remote inputs, and another new wire you just ran to your in-car speaker amps.
Now what you do, is cut the original blue wire AFTER the splice you made for the in-car speaker remote wire.
Hook up a switch to the original blue wire at the cut you just made. And boom, your done!
To summarize:
You now have two runs of remote wire.
- one going to sub amps
- one going to speaker amps
You also have a switch connected to the wire that's going to your sub amps.
When you flip the switch, power will go through the wire and turn on your sub amps
When you turn off the switch, power will not go to the sub amps, and turn the sub amps off.
During all this time, your speaker amps will stay on. Regardless of the sub amp switch setting.
Hope I've elaborated enough to help you out, if not, ask me something specific!
-Rage
The blue wire is coming from your head unit. I don't know about your setup..but you either have one, and then it's split to all the amps, or you have five (most likely one!)
what you need to do is splice the blue wire BEFORE the planned splice for the switch, and run that new wire to your internal speaker amps Only!.
By that time, you'll have your old blue wire connecting only to your sub amp's remote inputs, and another new wire you just ran to your in-car speaker amps.
Now what you do, is cut the original blue wire AFTER the splice you made for the in-car speaker remote wire.
Hook up a switch to the original blue wire at the cut you just made. And boom, your done!
To summarize:
You now have two runs of remote wire.
- one going to sub amps
- one going to speaker amps
You also have a switch connected to the wire that's going to your sub amps.
When you flip the switch, power will go through the wire and turn on your sub amps
When you turn off the switch, power will not go to the sub amps, and turn the sub amps off.
During all this time, your speaker amps will stay on. Regardless of the sub amp switch setting.
Hope I've elaborated enough to help you out, if not, ask me something specific!
-Rage
I think rage summorized it pretty well. My only worry is what is the current draw from the five amps on the remote wire. Usaully the remote wires can only handle a small current draw. What I do is if I am running more than three things off the remote, I use a relay this way I have no chance of blowing my remote. You may be fine just depends on what amount of current the amps need to turn on.
How many amps and subs are you running that you need to turn them on and off? Four? 99.9% of the time the subwoofer level can be controlled by the nonfading subwoofer output on the deck. If you don't have a nonfading sub output, you can use a variable pot, like a PAC LC-1 in line with the RCAs, or a remote gain **** if the amp has it. The other 0.01% is for SPL freaks or people who do IASCA.
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The problem with adjusting your gain like that is that the gain is not a volume ****. So many people mistake it for this. The original purpose of the gain was so you could match signal levels of the decks output to an amps input. Because there is no standard on deck output, they made the amps adjustable so you could use a particular amp with any stereo. The risk you take by adjusting an amp this way is you could cause the amp to clip. This is bad for your speakers and causes the amp to heat up faster. Just my .02
W'ere talking about a remote gain module, like PPI's Q-bass, Xtant's RGM1, JL's RBC1 and Phoenix Gold's LPL. It doesn't affect the input sensitivity but regulates the amount of voltage coming OUT of the amplification stage. It plugs into the side of the amp, usually a subwoofer amp via a RJ-45 (?) coupler like a telephone jack with a pot on the end. They're so much easier to control the level of the bass depending on the music along since some headunits make you go through a huge cycle of menus before you can turn the bass up. But yeah, I get customers who leave with their system properly tuned and end up they end up maxing out the gain and blowing the speaker.
same problem with my customers and I always tell them gains are not volume controlls. I set the gain on every amp I install and at least 50 percent of the people have changed them.
nsxxtreme - thanks for the comment, but I was referring to something totally different
nsxxtreme - thanks for the comment, but I was referring to something totally different
Are you sure you guys are not talking about remote bass? Similar to Fosgate's remote punch?
Regardless....both ideas work...where you have your gain **** (of whichever kind) IF your amp supports it, and just turn it down then back up.
The best way if you just want, ON, then OFF..is to follow my instructions above for the switch, and combine them with good ol' NSX-Extremes thinking and make sure you try and put a relay on it. If you do not know how to do this, post on this board after you have my half of the instructions complete and everyone on the board should help you after that (so as not to confuse the issue now)
Oh yea, and clipping your amp by setting the gains too high by a mistake on the **** does'nt only cause the amp to heat up faster, but destroys your speakers...so it's not advisable to play with gain, or gain *****...bass boost is ok.
-Rage
Regardless....both ideas work...where you have your gain **** (of whichever kind) IF your amp supports it, and just turn it down then back up.
The best way if you just want, ON, then OFF..is to follow my instructions above for the switch, and combine them with good ol' NSX-Extremes thinking and make sure you try and put a relay on it. If you do not know how to do this, post on this board after you have my half of the instructions complete and everyone on the board should help you after that (so as not to confuse the issue now)
Oh yea, and clipping your amp by setting the gains too high by a mistake on the **** does'nt only cause the amp to heat up faster, but destroys your speakers...so it's not advisable to play with gain, or gain *****...bass boost is ok.
-Rage
Just get a subwoofer EQ. I have one and it has all the adjustments right on the unit. Its half a din size so you can mount it in your center console or glove box... Works great!!!

[Modified by JohnnyM, 4:51 PM 2/18/2002]

[Modified by JohnnyM, 4:51 PM 2/18/2002]
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