battery- I got the big wire from the batter (threw a box) to the amp just fine. Connected it to the battery connection on the amp.

Ground- I have a 12" or so wire going from the GND connector on the amp to the bottom of my trunk. The rear of my car is gutted so we just lay it threw one of the many holes.

Remote- From the rear of the stereo we split the blue wire and used a basic stereo wire from a speaker to run it back to the amp.

When we start the car no power to the amp. We get a spark from the ground wire. The battery wire is connected to the positive end of the battery. The fuse on the amp and on the car do not look fried.

Any suggestions. If i can't figure anything out, I'll just run it down to circuit city or sound advice. Hoping to figure this one out at home though.

 

this may sound lame but u did TURN on the head unit right? if Head unit is off then the amp will be off too...

other than that.. try a test lamp between your positive and ground... if the bulb lights up then it could be your amp that's the problem... or your ground.... make sure there's no paint between the metal and wires...or wrap it aroudn a bolt/washer somewhere in the trunk...

 

Yeah, the head unit turns on okay and plays music.

I'll have to check the wires with a test lamp, pretty sure we have one laying around the house.

On the ground, we where layaing the ground wire ontop of paint. Would the paint be thick enough to not allow enough current through?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by issues4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Would the paint be thick enough to not allow enough current through?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, the paint will block contact, so either grind the paint off, or find an unpainted area. You will have the best contact if you grind off the area and bolt the ground wire down securely.

 

Alright, I'll have to grind it down then.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by issues4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Remote- From the rear of the stereo we split the blue wire and used a basic stereo wire from a speaker to run it back to the amp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Which blue wire?

 

the one on the back of the stereo. There was no "remote" wire. I believe its teh remote attenna wire or something to that effect.

 

Well sometimes there is a setting on the headunit for whether or not you want to use that "remote" wire. Like, if it is for an antenna, certain cars don't have electric antennas so that option is not always used. So if it is, then there just may not be a signal going through that wire, thus, not turning on your amp. Get a circuit tester. Check all 3 circuits.

First, to make sure you have power, take the power wire you have coming from the battery to the circuit tester, then ground it on your cars body. If it lights up that is okay.

Then do the same for ground. Go from your ground wire to the circuit tester then to the cars body.

If both those work. Take your remote wire to the circuit tester to the cars body. WHile you do that, have a buddy turn on your head unit. If it lights up, then you have a problem with your amp. If not, then it is the remote wire.

Do all that, then come back here.

 

If my suggestions are flawed somewhere, anyone please feel free to correct me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by a98tegLS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Then do the same for ground. Go from your ground wire to the circuit tester then to the cars body.

.</TD></TR></TABLE>
your gonna need to take the ground to a postive source. Such as once you know your power wire is ok, attach your ground wire to the frame of the car, and then make the connection between the positive feed and the negative ground wire using the tester. anyhow, i think its just the ground giving you problems.

 

I'd say your issue is the paint under your ground......

 

strip the paint 1st

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snoochtodanooch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
your gonna need to take the ground to a postive source. Such as once you know your power wire is ok, attach your ground wire to the frame of the car, and then make the connection between the positive feed and the negative ground wire using the tester. anyhow, i think its just the ground giving you problems. </TD></TR></TABLE>

not if you're just testing for continuity.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by a98tegLS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

not if you're just testing for continuity.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ehh i thought we were using a test light here not a multimeter, but either way would work

 

if you dont really have a remote wire.. run a accessory to it it should turn on.. or jump a small wire from the power to the remote and see if it turns on

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snoochtodanooch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ehh i thought we were using a test light here not a multimeter, but either way would work</TD></TR></TABLE>

True, but like you said, either way.

 

stripped the paint, bolted in with a screw. Doesn't work.

I went down to circuit city and they said they wouldn't check it. They only install stuff bought there blah blah...

so maybe i'll try sound advice...or go out and buy a multimeter/test light.

 

You can make your own test light with a little light bulb and some wire. It'll cost you nothing if you have the stuff.

 

Got it all working. The cause was the paint not being scraped away.

We think we're not getting enough power to the amp though. Seems weak. Only reason we say that is, my friend who i got it from, and helping me to install it said it sounded alot better on his civic. Only difference in his set up was he had a 2nd amp for the stereo/speakers. Which i don't think should affect the amp any.

PS. the reason it didn't work the first time i tried...em..was uih...so i didn't recconnect it to the battery when i tried it... dope!

 

run the remote to a switch then to the battery on the pos side.... when the switch is on then the amp will go on even with the head unit off

 

Not exactly following you...why would i do that? the remote doesn't go to the battery, it goes from the head unit to the amp...where you going with this? Why would i want the amp on even when the stereo's of?

 

I'm gonna assume they don't know you fixed the problem.