running 3 single is better then running one cap? you mean running 3 1 farad caps opposed to running 1 3 farad cap?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oilguzzler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">running 3 single is better then running one cap? you mean running 3 1 farad caps opposed to running 1 3 farad cap?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, unless the 3 Farad cap has an ESR that is lower than the 3 1 Farad caps in parallel then usually the combined ESR will be less with the 3 caps in parallel.

 

From just what I've read from most of the comments made, all of the (replies) have been very insightful, but I would simply start with the basics on any electrical audio problem.

How do you have the subs wired together in the box? In series or parallel? Also you've mentioned that those are D.V.C's, correct? Even if the amp will maintain a constant .5 ohm level in mono, you may possibly have it wired to a .25 load that the amp. is reading internally, and when the amp. hits certain voltage levels it goes into protection. Also the air space for the size of subs seem to be a little extreme, and again causing the amp to go into protection from exerting all of the air in the enclosure that it has to push making the power increase. How are your wiring connections? Are they correct and clean....On the subs, enclosure, etc.?

Example for the ohm load: (2)-4 ohm subs, from one + to another +, and from one - to the other - equals (2) ohms, When taking that same + in parallel and the - also in parallel going into a mono state (on side - the other +) the amp is also again dropping the impedance to (1) ohm.
If they are D.V.C's split the impedance in half....That's what the amp. is reading.

I'm not at all trying to test anyones intellect....I'm just trying to help.
I have approx. 8 years in audio installations, and I've seen something as simple as one strand of wire canceling out a signal and throwing the amp. into protection to a loose fuse holder that's saved these guys lots of money........Start with the easiest and work your way up.
H.T.H
-Shadow-

 

it sounds like to me when you have the volume crankin...the amp is sucking so much juice from your electrical system that the overall voltage in the vehicle is dropping close to or below the average 12 volts. just about any aftermarket stereo equipment has a minimum voltage to even turn on (@12V+). it could also be a few other things as others have stated...sub wiring, amp wiring, etc. take a meter and measure your battery's voltage as you crank up the volume to see what you are achieving as far as voltage when it starts to cut out. if the voltage is ok (above 12V+) then begin to check the other things.

i've seen issues with those glass tube fuses upon a heavy current draw begin to get so hot as they basically de-solder themselves within the tube and cool off again re-creating the necessary power connection. try looking into an ANL fuseholder instead of the glass tube style. they might cost a little bit more but at least you can tell by looking at them if it's a busted fuse or not. a lot of times i've found that the tube style separates inside the fuse itself and it looks fine but it's actually busted on one end instead of in the middle.

adding a cap might help a little bit but i've pretty much always found when you have a problem like you are... you are simply putting a band-aid on a bulletwound! forget the cap for now and see where you are at before you drop coin on something that's possibly unnecessary.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shadow29485 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> From just what I've read from most of the comments made, all of the (replies) have been very insightful, but I would simply start with the basics on any electrical audio problem. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think we have all covered that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think your problem is you have your speakers wired wrong. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds as though you have the speakers wired into a load that is to low for that amplifier. Try putting the speakers in series. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not worried about what is shutting his amp off. That alternator has no where near the power capacity to consistantly run a 2000w system once he does get his wiring figured out.

But what do I know i am a car audio newb.

 

thanks for all the awesome help guys, i just rebuilt my altenator so its gonna be pushing about 160-165 amps now. im picking up a new battery next week, hopefully a yellow top, and getting a new fuse holder this weekend. im going to check all the wiring and how the impedance is on the subs.
PS is the d2000/1 enough to power these subs properly? if so at what ohm.impedance