Ok, so i have a 12 inch sub in my car and have this problem that started recently. The sub all of a suddun just stops working. I checked the fuses, the connections, grounded good, it just seems to lose power. Then all of a sudden it turns back on, then later stops. It seems to have a power problem, what should i try next?

 

As a speaker, [sub] has no "power" it can't lose it, and it has no fuses or ground, but the amp does, so the question is, is it the sub that is cutting out, or is it the amp that is cutting out, [because it is loosing power] or maybe there is nothing wrong with either the sub or the amp and it is the audio signal to the amp that is cutting out.

First thing I would do is see if the amps "ON" indicator light is on or off when the bass cuts out, or if the amp has a "protection" warning light, is it on?

You said you checked the fuses, what fuses and how did you check them?

Next, if you are using an AGU glass type fuse... http://www.scosche.com/product...D/824 with this kind of in-line fuse holder... http://www.scosche.com/product...D/839 on the amps power lead, replace the fuse even if it looks good, in fact even if it tests good with a meter, better yet, replace it with an ANL fuse and holder.

Speakers, [including subs] generally work properly or not, [there is an exception] most , by a lot, "my sub is cutting out" turn out not to be a speaker problem, but something else, wiring being at the top of the list fallowed by wiring problems with the amp.
The speaker exception, two of them actually, a speaker can develop a "dead" spot on the VC at the point where cone is at rest, and under the right circumstances cut out, ["lose power"] and just as randomly cut back in.
The test for that is to move the speaker cone by hand, [push in a little] the next time it cuts out, if it cuts back in again you may have found the problem.
The second thing that can happen is a connection problem with the speakers tinsel leads, the test is the same, move the speaker by hand, unlike a dead spot on the VC, [not repairable without re-conning] a connection problem with the tinsel leads at the speaker terminal is repairable, [nothing more then re-soldering] even a connection problem with the tinsels at the VC can be repaired, [very delicate involved repair].

You said you checked the connections, did you remove the sub(s) and check all the connections inside the sub box, on the speakers? 94

 

I checked the light on the amp when this happens and the light turns from green to nothing. I ahve a 150a fuse under my hood from my battery and one on the amp, There not melted and are good.

 

Still nothing dang, the light on the amp just goes out what could cause that anything sub related? I will today replace the fuses. If that doesnt work i dunno.

 

remote ?

 

Hmmmm i will try that next

 

Nope, tryed that, all connections snug. New fuses. Could my amp be overheating? This is the first summer i owned this amp. Im clueless know. I looked over all that i could think of? All this started to happen when it got warm out too. I touch the amp and it is warm not hot though. Any more ideas?

 

Well thats the ground that circuit city put in does it look like thats the problem?

 

Using an anodized screw into an anodized speed clip, [tinneman clip] is not my idea of a good ground.
It is also not into the floor pan of the car.
Your best ground is one that allows contact of the ring terminal to the bare, [no paint] metal of the cars floor pan, seat and seat belt bolts/studs work well or any bolt or stud that goes into the floor pan will work, it is not necessary to drill a hole in the floor pan, there are more then enough bolts and studs that can be used, ring terminal may need to be changed.

Do you have or can you borrow a multimeter, you need to confirm that you have 12V+ constant and 12V+ trigger and a good ground at the amp, it is obvious that the problem is the amp turning off, now you just need to know why.

What is the make and model of the amp?

PS, next time it cuts out, disconnect the sub at the amp, if the amp comes back on you may have a short in the sub or the speaker leads running to it.

 

Back, and still not working. I dunno what is going on now. I replaced the fuse, also i disconnected all the wires and reconnected them to make sure that they were all connected to the right spots and are in good contact. Checked the ground it is good also. No lights on the amp is turning on now at all. Is there a way to check if i have power running through the 12v cable? Maybe there is something wrong with the wiring i cant see? Voltmeter ? I dunno.

 

ELA150.1
EL Series Mono 150 watt amplifier that is what my amp is the brand is bazooka.

 

Is it overheating?Sometimes amps cut off when they overheat.Or maybe you can take the service panel off the amp and look around for burn marks to see if maybe something burned out.Also you should try using another RCA cable(if thats what your using)because if your current RCA cable is messed up it could mean its not getting a good signal and could cut off every now and then....then again that wouldn't explain why you loose power and the light goes off.Well if worse comes to worse you can get it diagnosed pretty cheap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fryman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well if worse comes to worse you can get it diagnosed pretty cheap.</TD></TR></TABLE> That would cost at the very least $20, [just to tell him how much it will cost to fix] money is better spent getting the tool to do it himself.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deerman2701 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe there is something wrong with the wiring i cant see? Voltmeter ? I dunno.</TD></TR></TABLE> Now there's a though, take the $20, it would cost to have someone tell you how much it will cost to fix it, to Radio Shack and buy yourself a digital multimeter.
If you want to troubleshoot electrical problems in your car yourself, you will need a multimeter, it will pay for itself in no time it has 101 uses in a cars electrical troubleshooting.
So, "Voltmeter ? I dunno yes, get one and confirm that you have 12V+ at the amp and the amp has a good ground, you can also check if the speaker leads running to the sub are shorting out, or that your RCAs are good and so on.

If the amps indicator light is not on then either there is a problem with power or ground, or there is a problem with the amp.

OK, you have a Bazooka ELA150.1, a 1x100W RMS into 4 ohms and 1x150W into 2 ohms.
What is the make and model of the sub(s) it is driving? 94

 

yea but $20 isn't that bad if you can get someone to tell you the component thats bad.It's cheaper to find out yourself but it can be a pain.

 

Ok i will do that tomorrow and the sub fcm is http://www.pioneerelectronics....W300R I was driving it about 10 minutes ago around 11:30 pm here while it was cooler out and the sub worked so i dunno haha.

 

Although the amp is a little under-powered for the sub, [100W amp/150W sub] it should drive it pretty good.
Unless there is a problem with the subs impedance, [4 ohms] the amp should not be overheating because of a low load, it is stable down to 2 ohms and you have a 4 ohm speaker.
One of the first things I would check is the impedance, [ohms] at the speaker leads on the amp, [disconnect the leads from the amp and meter them. 94