This thread is very similar to another active one right now but I may be able to give some more details.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1590168 (other thread)

I just installed a new JBL amp to power my 6x9's and i'm running my subwoofer off of the auxillary output from the JBL. I have a Pioneer head unit and am using the front and rear preouts.
The problem is my fuel pump and other electronics are causing a terrible amount of buzz with the RCA cables not even hooked up to the head unit. I just stopped by Extreme Audio (my local dealer) and he told me I need to get a Jensen noise filter. He also suggested I could use several layers of dynamat and that may help the problem. Has anybody heard of this? He said it worked awesome in his 98 Accord.
If you have had the problem what did you do to fix it?

Thanks in advance.

 

Noise in a system is most commonly caused by poor grounding, 'induced" noise is common if the RCA leads are run along with power wires, [any power wires]

Have you tried unplugging the RCAs at the amp?

I am a little confused, you say you are using the front and rear pre-outs off the Pioneer HU but you mention that you are running 6x9s off the JBL amp, is that one or 2 sets of 6x9s, or it it just a 2ch. JBL amp?

What is the model of the Pioneer HU?
What is the model of the JBL amp?
What is the make and model of the sub amp
Is there another amp running the front speakers, [if the JBL is not a 4ch amp]?
What gauge of power and grounds are you using for the amps?
Where ate the amps grounded?
How and where are the RCAs run?
How and where in the power run

Is the noise an all speakers, front, rears and/or sub (s)?
Is the noise present if motor is not running?

Can you change the pitch or volume of the noise, changing engine RPM or by loading up the alt., [turning things on, lights, blower motor, rear window defog or any other power]?

Last but not least, Dynamat will not get rid of "system" noise, [no matter how many layers you put down] it will do a lot of other things, [all good] but it will not get rid of the noise you are hearing. 94

 

I know my ground is good. That was the issue with my original amp. My ground cable is about 4 feet of 8ga going straight to a cleaned frame bolt in the rear of the car.
The (self powered) subwoofer is a JBL BassPro, The new one is a JBL CS series 4 channel (current model) the Headunit is a high end pioneer with 2 preout sets. (I don't know the exact models #'s of any of them.)
All of my wires are Stinger, my RCA's are on the drivers side and the power is on the passengers side.
The noise is a high pitch whine now. I brought it down a lot from the deafening buzz I was getting. With the key just in on I get a fuzzy sound (like an open microphone on a PA system). When I turn up the volume it is covered up. But as soon as I turn the key on the fuel pump drives it crazy. If I start it I get the same pitch of noise but it varies with RPM's (I have stock ignition components and this was not an issue with my first amp)
The JBL amp is pushing the 6X9's in the rear shelf and the headunit is pushing the door speakers with inline bass blockers.
I seem to have done a great job of making the connections complicated but as soon as I get rid of the noise it should be great.
I built an enclosure for the Basspro and mounted the Amp on the rear face of it.
But either way i'm dropping it off at Extreme Audio tomorrow and they are gonna fix it up for me.

 

Some amp kits come with a long black wire so that you can connect your radio and amp grounds to reduce noise.

You should route your RCA and REM wires not only away from your amp power wire, but away from high current wires/devices in the car ie your fuel pump and it's wiring. You should isolate them with split loom and zip tie them in place.

 

Connecting the grounds together is a good idea. I had never thought of it. The fuel pump isn't really high current. And either way that harness goes down the middle of the car. All of the wires are zip tied and clipped to a seperate point on the body away from the main harnesses anyway. The power cable i have zip tied and in wire loom the whole way back, I even have the fuse holder bolted to the firewall.
But next I already know I need to run a 6ga wire to the back and use a power block. Because right now the amps are wired in a series/ paralel circuit. So when it gets to high power i'm going to end up with high resistance. Another 100 watts or so and a second battery is going to find it's way in the trunk too.

 

OK two things suspendedHatch is correct your RCAs should not be run with any power wires, and you have them run on the drivers side, [power side of car, all power for rear of car runs down drivers side] I would move them to the center of car, [away from any power].
I also see that you are running 2 sets of RCAs, [front and rear] to a 4ch. amp that you are using to power one set of speakers, [I assume you have it bridged into 2ch. mode] So I would have a very close look at how the RCAs should be connected to the amp when it is bridged into 2ch. mode, it should not need 2 sets of RCAs, I would use the rear set for the 4ch. amp and the front set for the sub, [if your HU does not have a sub out]

JBL shows one CS 4ch. amp, [CS60.4] but owners manual does not show any RCA connections or even a diagram of input side of amp, [unlike the GTi series amps] so I can't find any info on the input, however on most 4ch. amps when bridged only the left front and left rear inputs are used, plugging anything into the right front and rear inputs shorts out the input stage of the amp, or at the very least mixes the left and right signals for a mono output. 94

 

He ended up working out much more of the noise. My ground is only about a foot long now even though I don't like how he drilled my floorpan and ran 3 machine screws in there.
He put Y adapters at my hu and the new amp, so I can have my hu control the sub again.
I still have the noise but I'm going to try out what a few of my friends said worked for them. Connect a wire to a frame bolt and run a metal stake into the dirt, connect the wire and let it sit overnight. It sounds crazy but it makes sense because I had a slight whine when I put the BassPro in by itself and within a month I realised the noise was gone. So the theory is supported but I guess i'll see if it really works or not.
But I tuned it some and it really sounds better than I expected. I still need to fine tune it but it's off to a good start. I'll post pics when I get the chance.

 

First, BRahahahahahah, "drive stake in dirt" thats not one I have heard in over 30 years in the biz.

Answer me this, is the 4ch. amp bridged into a 2ch and only running the rear speakers, and if so how many sets of RCAs are plugged into it? 94

 

That whining noise is cased by a ground loop. Has nothing to do with "induced noise".

When you have two grounds that are at a different potential, Current will flow from the highest potential to the lowest. THIS is what causes the whining noise. Noise filters only mask the problem they do not get rid of it. You installer that suggested dynamat should have his head examined.

Your deck and amp is at two different ground potentials. Connecting the two ground together does help. Th real problem though is a poor ground. Make sure the deck has a good ground, make sure the amp has a good ground, make sure the connection from the battery to the frame is good, and last which most people miss make sure the connection from the engine to frame is good. Cars have rubber engine mounts they dont pass current well. Current always begins and ends in the same place it must make a loop. If any of those grounds are bad you will have a ground loop.

 

I beg to differ. My grounds are perfect. They were in the 1st place but the cable was too long. When I did my engine swap I made sure all of the grounds were clean and connected. The HU is grounded to the stock ground and to the dash chassis and the filter has it's own ground, each amp now has two grounds to the frame.
I know what a ground loop is and this isn't one. How do you explain me just turning the key on and hearing my fuel pump over my rear speakers and not the front? If your still going to suggest a poor ground I even cleaned up the fuel pump ground.
I know your used to noobs but this isn't my first install either
And the guy that needs to have his head examined works for the guys that have that lime green Astro that that destroys all at DB Drag every time.( http://www.jbl.com/car/feature...n=USA ) So I give him credit for his suggestion even if it seems far fetched.
I have one RCA cable coming off of the head unit going to the amp and is split to two before the amp. The other cable is feeding the subwoofer. And I realise how crazy the ground thing sounds but if it works i'll be sure to give you a good laugh back .

 

Dynamat will reduce outside noise it will not reduce noise you put into the system thats just plain dumb.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MooGoCow3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know what a ground loop is and this isn't one. How do you explain me just turning the key on and hearing my fuel pump over my rear speakers and not the front? </TD></TR></TABLE>
This is a ground loop. Anytime you hear whining noise that increases with RPM you have a ground loop. Those noise filters you buy attempt to float the ground. Which doesn't fix the problem. One thing I have seen is some 4 channel amps have a main RCA input and the "other" RCA input. What this means is it pulls its ground from the main, so if you dont have it connected the "other" RCA does not have a ground. Which creates a ground loop.

Simple test take the rca's from the amp causeing the noise and plug it in the other amp. No noise then the amp is the source of the problem.

Either it has a faulty ground or the ground internal to the amplifiers RCA's is bad

 

It doesn't increase with RPM anymore...
It ONLY happens when I turn the key on and the fuel pump runs. The noise does not change with RPM.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Answer me this, is the 4ch. amp bridged into a 2ch and only running the rear speakers, and if so how many sets of RCAs are plugged into it? 94</TD></TR></TABLE>
How about the answer to this question?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MooGoCow3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have one RCA cable coming off of the head unit going to the amp and is split to two before the amp. The other cable is feeding the subwoofer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

What I don't understand is why is there more then 2 RCAs. [one left ch. and one right ch.] plugged into a 4ch amp that has been bridged into a 2ch. amp? 94

 

Front channel is bridged(now left) and rear chanel is bridged (now right). therefore two inputs are needed.

 

Yes 2 inputs left and right, by the sounds of it......
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MooGoCow3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have one RCA cable coming off of the head unit going to the amp and is split to two before the amp.</TD></TR></TABLE> what do you mean one RCA cable off the HU but split into two before the amp? One set of RCAs with a "Y" adapter on the left and one on the right and all 4 plugged into the amp? 94

 

how would you propose I do it then? I only have two preouts on my HU and both of them are occupied, and the amp can only be bridged like it is. (according to the instrustions) I'll go pull the model numbers so you can realise what i'm doing.

 

As I said I could not find any info on the input for that amp, but with most 4ch. amps when you bridge the amp into into a 2ch. only the left inputs are used, HUs left output goes to amps front left input ans HUs right output goes to amps rear left input, however this may not be the case for the amp you have, the amp you have may need both the left and right inputs for the amp to function properly, in which case using the "Y" adapters would be the only way to do it, HUs left output slit into two and plugged into the left and right front inputs of amp and the HUs right output split into the amps rear left and right input.

If the amp does not have an input selector switch, [normally marked ST, L+R or L+R MIX, MONO or L MONO] or if it is not an automatic input mix when bridged, [the output is always mixed when bridged, then both inputs for the front and rear would have to be used.

So the question is, does the amp have an input selector switch? As I said I could not find info on the input, not even a diagram of the input end plate.

Here is what I could find... http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/...5.pdf 94

 

Yep you found the right Amp and no there is no switch, only crossover, gain, and freq. Switches are freq range. No input or output choices to be made. Trust me there is no other way to go.
It's a good thing I have a one year speaker warranty because I already fried the right side speaker. I'm trying to upload the pictures I took but my computer is determined to thwart me.
Thanks for the advice so far by the way even though it has been a bit frustrating at times.
I'm usually the one giving the help so it's a bit strange being on the receiving end for once.

 

Finally I got the pics in!
Here is the amp.

The amp is mounted on my home made box and it's the first thing you see when you open the tailgate or the cover.

Sorry for the poor quality, taking pictures in the dark is tough. But it's a DEH-P6600. I have pictures of my BassPro and the 6x9's but my computer refuses to upload them from my camera. Mabye tomorrow i'll take better ones in daylight and you can see them better...

 

Well here's a news flash for you, the Pioneer DEH-P6600 does have a sub output, [non fading output] the RCA "pigtail", [short lead W/ RCA ends] is the rear output, the "panel mount" RCAs are the front and sub/non fading RCA outputs].

Here is the install manual for the DEH-P6600... http://www.pioneerelectronics....0.pdf 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and the filter has it's own ground</TD></TR></TABLE> What filter? passive? active? I hope this isn't a passive filter. Because the amps - speaker terminal is not ground.

*edit*
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MooGoCow3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I beg to differ. My grounds are perfect. They were in the 1st place but the cable was too long. When I did my engine swap I made sure all of the grounds were clean and connected. The HU is grounded to the stock ground and to the dash chassis and the filter has it's own ground, each amp now has two grounds to the frame. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Modified by nsxxtreme at 10:03 AM 4/17/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> What filter? passive? active? I hope this isn't a passive filter. Because the amps - speaker terminal is not ground.</TD></TR></TABLE> Are you quoting me? 93

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well here's a news flash for you, the Pioneer DEH-P6600 does have a sub output, [non fading output] the RCA "pigtail", [short lead W/ RCA ends] is the rear output, the "panel mount" RCAs are the front and sub/non fading RCA outputs].

Here is the install manual for the DEH-P6600... http://www.pioneerelectronics....0.pdf 94</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep I have the sub set to sub and nonfade on. The rear outputs are set to full range. It seems like you canceled your news flash half way though it...