i have a 2004 honda civic with aftermarket speakers in the rear and fronts. also have two 12 subs in the trunk with alpine mrp-500 amp.Pioneer p3300BT head unit.. my setup was working flawlessly untill i decided to swap my stock rear speakers. Now that the rear speakers are installed and working i noticed my amp didnt have any light to indicate power. This is what i have done to trouble shoot. i jumpered constant power and remote on the amp to test if the amp works and it does - i got light. also the power wire from the battery the remote wire from the head unit both are good no damage. im getting no voltage from the blue remote wire from the head unit. does the remote wire have its own fuse that it connects to in the car? or is it specific to the headunit? i also tried a new headunit, exact model and still no luck. any idea where i go from here?

 

Will the amp not work when playing a CD in the HU or even if radio is playing? 94

 

Nope won't work even with sub selected on in the head unit. I does work when i jumper the power and remote on the amp

 

first off, are you sure that youre using the correct "blue" wire from the HU? There are 2 blue wires from the HU (one i believe if the power antennae and the other, remote wire). (im not questioning your ability to install the deck, just had a lot of people think its either blue wire)

if you're sure you're using the right wire off the HU, use a test light and ground the clip and see if the test light turns on when you probe the end of the the remote wire (obviously when you turn on the HU). if not, it may be the deck or you're using the wrong wire.

good luck

 

yes im using the right blue wire. also it was working before iinstalled my rear speakers. also i tried it on two head units. What would the test light do that a multimeter couldnt? i read that im supposed to get 12v from the remote wire which im not. could i just connect the remote wire to the Headunits 12v power cable?

 

for temporary you could hook the remote wire to the ignition wire on the back of the deck. if it comes on the it is obviously either the wrong wire or a blown remote output. if it doesnt work i would check the remote wire for continuity

 

the wire has continuity. i've also measured from the headunit to find the 12v. does the remote wire signal have a fuse in the car. does that wire run from the harness to the headunit or is it just from the headunit

 

oops, reading > me.

 

Most aftermarket decks have a fuse on the remote wire. If it's not the fuse then you probably fried the little transistor inside the radio that turns that wire "on" is only meant to handle a few hundred milliamp.

If you accidentally hit ground with it then the fuse is blown or you burnt it out.

 

the 10amp fuse is for the head unit right? its right where the harness plugs into the deck

 

The 10A fuse will be the only fuse for the HU other then the stock fuses in the stock fuse boxes, there is no fuse on the blue control lead, if you have no power on the blue lead, damage has been done to it's output.
Connect amps control lead along with HUs red acc. lead to the cars acc. lead.

However if you tried other HUs and they also did not turn on the amp, you have a continuity problem with the amp control lead. 94

 

so how can i wire it without the blue remote wire working? or am i out of luck now

 

Connect it to the red wire, but this will make the amp turn on any time the key is on (regardless if the radio is on or not). Typically not a big deal, but sometimes this can lead to a turn-on "pop"/"thump" or if the radio is off you can hear alternator noise in the subs since there's no input feed

 

so is this safe? i would think so. i think the red wire is 12v and the blue power on wire is supposed to put out 12v

 

well i connect to the red and it blows my radio/accessory fuse

 

If you connect it and it blows a fuse you must have a short somewhere...did you pinch the wire accidentally during installation?
My remote wire was dead as well; I spliced into the power wire from the cigarette lighter socket. And personally, I don't have the thump noise- though my old set up did.
Good luck.

 

ill have to re run the remote wire to make sure the wiring is all good. if you spliced from the cigarette lighter does your amp always stay on?
again i hooked it up to what i beleive is 12v which is the main power for the headunit

 

okay just did a quick wire test and it does seem to be a short in original install. tested with a 12 gauge wire and everythign WORKED!

 

Cool just sucks you blew your remote wire. If your stereo doesn't come with a fuse on the remote I would highly recommend puting a 2 amp fuse on it. wont matter for this stereo but remember it for next time.

I've seen many cases of someone screwing around with there amps and they will accidentally short out the remote.