I know you're budget is $400, but you can work around that budget and get fairly decent setup. I pieced together the following for around that much: Eclipse CD3000 head unit($150 clearance at work) Eclipse PA5422 amp($100 from a fellow member), Infinity 6012i speakers($30 clearance at work) + Infinity 1042w sub ($30 clearance at work) + $60ish for fiberglass materials, and then my power and RCA cables were given to me. I installed it myself so that put me at about $370+tax. Figure I get discounted quality RCAs and power for about $50+ and I'm still at the price range you're willing to spend. I'm pretty sure you can do it too.

If you check circuitcity's ebay store, they have tons of great deals on customer returns and display models.

FCM, I'm curious to the reasoning behind "it is a better spot then the trunk/hatch for a few reasons." Not that I'm questioning you, it's because I did the opposite because the del sol seats in my hatch sit lower than stock so no more amp space.

 

94<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nineohtoo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FCM, I'm curious to the reasoning behind "it is a better spot then the trunk/hatch for a few reasons." Not that I'm questioning you, it's because I did the opposite because the del sol seats in my hatch sit lower than stock so no more amp space.</TD></TR></TABLE> The main reason is length, length of power lead, length of RCAs and length of ground path, another good reason is heat dissipation, it is more secure under seat, [can't just be grabbed and ripped out].

I will use spacers on pass seat if I need a little more room for an amp, how convenient it is to place the amp under the seat will depend on the seats, [your case] and thickness of amp.

 

I'll agree with the short wire runs being good, but heat dissipation can be tricky. You have to be really careful that there is enough room above the amp, especially considering the bottom of the seat comes down with someone sitting in it. I've seen installs where the person was basically "sitting" on the amp.....not good. Even worse when they try to move the seat, can scratch the hell outta the amp. You need at least an inch of space above the amp... with a person in the seat....for proper air flow, of course the more the better. If ya wanna get crazy you can build a shroud like those on the old RF "Power" amps....the really old ones....

 

well i ran into another problem.....after putting in my new head unit...which was a bitch to do by the way....i put a CD into it....and it was a "burnt" cd..and i put it in and it read "error"...soo i ejected it and it came out and i put it right back in...this time i played just fine....well yesterday i went to take the cd out and it made a weird noise now the cd wont eject at all.....any ideas??

Make: Dual

Model: Illumini-Night

 

It's because the HU is cheap. Look into replacing it with either a Alpine or Pioneer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tegraracer90 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i ran into another problem.....after putting in my new head unit...which was a bitch to do by the way....i put a CD into it....and it was a "burnt" cd..and i put it in and it read "error"...soo i ejected it and it came out and i put it right back in...this time i played just fine....well yesterday i went to take the cd out and it made a weird noise now the cd wont eject at all.....any ideas??

Make: Dual

Model: Illumini-Night

</TD></TR></TABLE> Try a reboot, disconnect power, [batt. neg.(-) works] wait a min. then reconnect, if the HU does not "initialize", [put CD transport into ejected mode, or ready for disk mode] then the unit has gone west, time for a new HU.
Maybe a better one this time. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by camusmuse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll agree with the short wire runs being good, but heat dissipation can be tricky. You have to be really careful that there is enough room above the amp, especially considering the bottom of the seat comes down with someone sitting in it. I've seen installs where the person was basically "sitting" on the amp.....not good. Even worse when they try to move the seat, can scratch the hell outta the amp. You need at least an inch of space above the amp... with a person in the seat....for proper air flow, of course the more the better. </TD></TR></TABLE>

First, your right, obviously you would not mount an amp that does not "fit" under the seat, or you would make modifications, [raise the seat] so the amp fits.

I have installed more then a few amps under seats, they all get proper air flow, not one of them will get scratched because of seat movement, no matter how big he/she is.

Second, what Honda/Acura seat, "the bottom of the seat comes down with someone sitting in it" would that be?
I suggested mounting the amp under the seat, not up into it. 94

 

Are there any benefits of using a mono amp over a 2 channel and bridging it? Thanks FCM for all the knowledge on here, I am learning as I go along

 

ok well i got a bit of an update and a couple questions...i finally got the hole drilled in the firewall today and got the power line run...then i rememberd "i didnt pick up any 4 gauge ends or more 4 gauge wire for the ground.....****!" soo snooping around the garage i went...found some 5 gauge wire "that will work"...but still no connector ends...soo that put that project on hold till a trip to advance auto comes tomarrow....having the battery disconnected gave the HU time to reset...but that piece of **** still dont eject my cd....well there is my update of todays fiasco....working under the dash sucks ***

QUESTION:

1. if i replace the Headunit will the plug in the back be differant on the new one?...or are they all universal (cause if the plus is differant.. i am buying the same exact one again cause i aint cutting them wires again)

 

i just read a review about my HU and almost all them say its a POS....looks like i am getting a new one after all

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Halo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are there any benefits of using a mono amp over a 2 channel and bridging it? Thanks FCM for all the knowledge on here, I am learning as I go along </TD></TR></TABLE> I think tread jacking is ed upon. 94

 

No the plug will not be the same, and why would you buy the same POS that just went west on you?

Why did you cut the wires in the first place?

Would have been a lot easier with an adapter harness... http://www.scosche.com/scosche...HA02B
but maybe you didn't know.

At this point it makes no diff. anyway, if you want anything better, you will have to cut the wires again, if I was you I would reconnect the stock plug, and get one of the above adapters, or get one of these also... http://www.scosche.com/scosche...A02RB
and connect it to the stock radio harness, and wiring will no longer be a problem. 94

 

yeah i didnt know that I could have bought an adaptor harness..i just saw the new plug in the box with the new HU and assumed that i had to cut wires...soo me (not thinking things through the way i should) cut the wires from the OEM plug and matched them with the wires on the new plug. And i thought i did a good job cause everything worked as it should. But now putting back in the old plug isnt possible cause i only left about 1/2 inch of wire left on the old plug ....i might just have to deal with that one for right now...money isnt comin in like it should...i dont know if i have room to break the bank for a new HU (That sub and amp system really killed me for money)

 

well guys thanks to everyones help i got the sum and amp done tonight....it sounds great..no wires getting hott or nothing burning up soo thats good....and deffinatly rattles some windows...job well done!...thanks to everyone

 

Glad you found your happiness man. Another word of caution though.....

Loud is fun and all, but keep it to a minimum. Your hearing is your best tool, dont fock it up with lotsa db for long periods of time. Trust me on this one......

 

Just a question comment. What does college or highschool have to do with it? I worked as an installer for Best buy, and all I have is a GED, so I guess that my car has a ccrappy install? So I also guess that my full McIntosh system is crappy for SQ? Wow, I would just hate to think this all becasue of my lack of education and having worked for Best Buy....I must say that is quite sad that thinking I left school early made my car audio insignifcant to one who went to school....DAMN MCINTOSH...It would be better if I went to School!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by New2Hondas83 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just a question comment. What does college or highschool have to do with it? I worked as an installer for Best buy, and all I have is a GED, so I guess that my car has a ccrappy install? So I also guess that my full McIntosh system is crappy for SQ? Wow, I would just hate to think this all becasue of my lack of education and having worked for Best Buy....I must say that is quite sad that thinking I left school early made my car audio insignifcant to one who went to school....DAMN MCINTOSH...It would be better if I went to School!!!</TD></TR></TABLE> What the hell are you talking about???

What does the above have to do with the OPs questions?

Why is your reply directed at B18C_EJ8 all I have seen him do is is respond to the OP with proper advice and questions, and stomp on a know it all no0b that was spreading a lot of misinformation and got rude about it when he was called on it.
Maybe your comment was directed at him... but I haven't seen him back here to explain anything he said. 94

 

I was reading through, and decide to give up.
bottom line is just get a hifonics 1000w rms mono amp. I am currently running a hifonics nemesis 750w rms class d mono along with a audiobahn 12" 800wrms sub and it has been the best sounding system I have ever heard from a single sub system. even though my civic is having difficulty handling the system. am satistfied and I did not spend over $1000 on it. $130 for the amp,$115 for the sub, and $40 for the hifonics cap, $80 for the audibahn component speaker system.
if I would have listen to everyone on h-t I would have spent over $2000 on the same quality system.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudebwoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if I would have listen to everyone on h-t I would have spent over $2000 on the same quality system.
</TD></TR></TABLE> Well maybe over $2000 but far from the same quality system, you may be happy/satisfied with what you have, and you may not have heard anything better, [your loss] but don't compare Audiobahn crap to quality brand name equipment, and you do no have to spend $2000 to get a great sounding system. 94

 

I am pretty sure there are a lot of better brands out therem thats better than audiobahn. all I am trying to say is for the people who are looking for a decent priced system that a person who don't make $16 an hour or have a rich parent can afford.audiobahn, and hifonics is a great option. from my research I found 3 speakers that are great : kicker solar barick, cerwin vega strokers, and jl audio w7. but those are pricy, so affordable subs are audiobahn, MA audio. there a lot more but you get my drift. not everyone feels comfortable spending a lot of money for a name brand.

 

you can use entry level name brand items and still have better quality then audiobahn. Ma audio over audiobahn anyday

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti-eater &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can use entry level name brand items and still have better quality then audiobahn. Ma audio over audiobahn anyday </TD></TR></TABLE>Ditto that.
IMO the only thing Audiobahn has that is any good, is it's marketing department.
For the same money or even less you can get a way better sounding system.

rudebwoy Don't get me wrong, I wasn't flaming you because of the equipment you have, if it sounds good to you, then that's all it has to do, and if you have not heard anything better, like I said, "that's your loss".

Saying, " same quality system" is just a little misleading, that's why I "corrected" you. 94

 

My Setup is within your limits

Rockford 4 guage wiring - 30 (ebay)
Alpine swr-1242D - 100 (ikesound)
Alpine MRD-605 amp - 150 (crutchfield closeout)
Alpine 1.5 cubic ft ported box - 100 (forums)
1.5 farad cap - 50 (forums)

So 430 bucks with heart pounding clarity. I could have went with a cheaper box, but this box is 100 times better than anything i could buy at BB or CC. Plus i live in an apartment so i dont have a saw to build one.

I also found 6x8/5x7 alpine type-r coax for 30 shipped on ebay. I now just need to find a cheaper price on some MB Quarts components other than 150 and I will have a killer setup for 600.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by youknowwhoibee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So 430 bucks with heart pounding clarity. j </TD></TR></TABLE>

I wouldnt go that far but it is a nice lil budget setup

 

Its not as horrible as i thought it was going to be. I have this box tuned to this specific sub, and its a very clean and precise bass for a 12 inch sub.