need help on installing capacitor
hi, just bought a capacitor, dunno how to install it, instructions are soo complicated, and what is a resistor? need some step by step before i screw up my car or shock myself (based on what my friend told me about getting shocked or something)
all you need to do is run power from the battery to the cap and from the cap to power on the amp same with the ground..chasis ground to the cap and from the cap to the amp
the resistor is to discharge the cap when ever you remove it
the resistor is to discharge the cap when ever you remove it
The resistor is to charge the cap.
Mount cap as close to amp as possible, daisy chain the power, and ground the cap at the same ground point as the amp is grounded at, once installed, place resistor in fuse power lead holder, wait 5min. then remove resistor and install fuse. 94
A cap can help on any system, but when current draw exceeds supply a cap can help a lot and take the load off the alt.
Example, if you have a 1x500W RMS sub amp, it takes about 75A of current to make that 500W, so if you have a 60A alt. you are overloading it, even with a 90A alt. it only leaves 15A for the rest of the electrical load in the car.
This is very hard on the alt. and it will eventually burn out, this is where the cap comes in, a cap is kind of like a batt. [it stores "power"] but unlike a batt. it will release that "power" very fast, almost instantly compared to a batt., it also recharges much faster then a batt., again almost instantly compared to a batt.
This is the best part, because music is dynamic, your 500W sub amp is not drawing 75A all the time, only when the amp is making 500W will it draw 75A, when you have it cranked and the bass hits hard, the rest of the time the draw is much less, [average draw is probably less then 50%, [25A-35A], this is where a cap can help, the cap will supply the current the amp needs when the bass hits hard.
Keep in mind, a cap used this way is a band-aid, and a good one, however, only upgrading the alt. will increase current, [amps].
So to answer your question "How do you know when you need to add a cap" add up your total RMS wattage, if current draw for that exceeds your alt. ability to supply it, a cap will help, another way is if you have dimming lights to the beat of the music, a cap will help, although dimming lights can also be caused by amp wiring issues.
So what is your total RMS wattage? 94
Example, if you have a 1x500W RMS sub amp, it takes about 75A of current to make that 500W, so if you have a 60A alt. you are overloading it, even with a 90A alt. it only leaves 15A for the rest of the electrical load in the car.
This is very hard on the alt. and it will eventually burn out, this is where the cap comes in, a cap is kind of like a batt. [it stores "power"] but unlike a batt. it will release that "power" very fast, almost instantly compared to a batt., it also recharges much faster then a batt., again almost instantly compared to a batt.
This is the best part, because music is dynamic, your 500W sub amp is not drawing 75A all the time, only when the amp is making 500W will it draw 75A, when you have it cranked and the bass hits hard, the rest of the time the draw is much less, [average draw is probably less then 50%, [25A-35A], this is where a cap can help, the cap will supply the current the amp needs when the bass hits hard.
Keep in mind, a cap used this way is a band-aid, and a good one, however, only upgrading the alt. will increase current, [amps].
So to answer your question "How do you know when you need to add a cap" add up your total RMS wattage, if current draw for that exceeds your alt. ability to supply it, a cap will help, another way is if you have dimming lights to the beat of the music, a cap will help, although dimming lights can also be caused by amp wiring issues.
So what is your total RMS wattage? 94
I have CDT CL-61a's. I looked online and it says 90RMSx2 and I'm using a JL 300/4 bridged to power them. My rear speakers are just hooked up to the head unit and I have a JL 500/1 powering a 8w7, which some site says is 500RMS? All of this in a 98 integra...
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Improper wire gauge for power and ground, [too small] poor connections, long ground cable, poor grounding point.
Any one of the above, or combination of any of the above can cause problems, making watts is all about getting the proper current to the amp, the amp will try and draw the required current even if there is a wiring issue, this will normally result in "hot spots", [at poor connections points] poor SQ and dimming lights. 94
Any one of the above, or combination of any of the above can cause problems, making watts is all about getting the proper current to the amp, the amp will try and draw the required current even if there is a wiring issue, this will normally result in "hot spots", [at poor connections points] poor SQ and dimming lights. 94
is the first picture i uploaded the "charging resistor?" because thats the only thing i got in the box and the instructions said they supplied me with one. also, where am i suppose to put that thing?
Last edited by redlinexd; Jan 23, 2009 at 02:55 PM.
also i took this piece off someone's comment
Best way to quickly charge the cap is by using a 12v bulb. Connect the pos to pos on the cap, one end of the light bulb on the cap's neg and the other end to the ground on the car. You will see the light bulb turn on and then few seconds later turn off. That will idicate a fully charged cap. Now you can connect it directly without any sparks flying
is that statement true?
Best way to quickly charge the cap is by using a 12v bulb. Connect the pos to pos on the cap, one end of the light bulb on the cap's neg and the other end to the ground on the car. You will see the light bulb turn on and then few seconds later turn off. That will idicate a fully charged cap. Now you can connect it directly without any sparks flying
is that statement true?
Yes that is the "charging resistor" and yes you can use a light bulb, it is what I use, it is just another form of resistor.
Connect everything up without installing the fuse in the amps power cable, [by the batt.], to charge the cap install the bulb is series, [pos.(+) of bulb to batt. side of fuse holder and neg.(-) of bulb to amp side of fuse holder] when the connection is made the bulb will light up brightly, [careful it can get hot] as the cap charges the bulb will get dimmer, when bulb is out, cap is charged, remove bulb and install fuse, your done. 94
Connect everything up without installing the fuse in the amps power cable, [by the batt.], to charge the cap install the bulb is series, [pos.(+) of bulb to batt. side of fuse holder and neg.(-) of bulb to amp side of fuse holder] when the connection is made the bulb will light up brightly, [careful it can get hot] as the cap charges the bulb will get dimmer, when bulb is out, cap is charged, remove bulb and install fuse, your done. 94
sorry for being too confused, its just a big thing if i do one wrong move, i shove the light bulb on the fuse holder? TT (im kinda scared, friends of mine didnt wanna install theirs because they scared too.) lol
Yes, install the bulb, in series, on the power cable, easiest to do at the fuse holder.
This is what I use... http://cgi.ebay.ca/Datsun-240z-280z-...ayphotohosting. 94
This is what I use... http://cgi.ebay.ca/Datsun-240z-280z-...ayphotohosting. 94
That is correct, in this case both ends will be pos.(+) as you will not be grounding the bulb, the uncharged cap will act as a "ground", that's why the bulb will light up brightly, as the cap charges there is less and less "ground" and the bulb will dim till it finally goes out, or almost out, you may still see a slight "glow" on the bulb filament, cap is charged. 94
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Aug 11, 2002 07:43 PM
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