Main relay kill switch
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From: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
When I do my installs, I remove the unit from the stock location and locate it to the top of the dash and use a relay to kill it with the alarm. This way a theif can not tamper with it. Or for someone with out a alarm i kill the ground to it with a 1 amp switch. Some main relays have one or two ground wirees to it. You have to kill the one or the two wires with the switch or relay. Most cars that are obd11 have to ground wires to the main relays.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by batallic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can i use a 3 amp switch</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes you can, but a 1amp will due just fine. The 3amp is just larger
Yes you can, but a 1amp will due just fine. The 3amp is just larger
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Two things, soldering is better, size of switch will depend on if there is two black leads or one black lead and/or how you wire it if there is two black leads.
The PGM-FI Main Relay, [coil on injector relay] needs only a low current ground, [under 250mA] so if there is only one black lead the switch needs to be no bigger then 1A, [a 3A will not hurt, although it is bigger so harder to hide] if there are two leads one is the ground, [from chassis] the other is a ground for something else, [daisy chained] I have never tried to figure out what it is a ground for so I do not know if it is low current or high current, if it is grounding a 5A load then even your 3A switch is not big enough.
The simple fix is to disconnect both the blacks, [not just the ground input] and connect them both to one side of the switch, [daisy chained load is not interrupted if switch is off] and connect either one, [or both] of the other ends, going to PGM-FI Main Relay] to the other terminal of the switch.
94
The PGM-FI Main Relay, [coil on injector relay] needs only a low current ground, [under 250mA] so if there is only one black lead the switch needs to be no bigger then 1A, [a 3A will not hurt, although it is bigger so harder to hide] if there are two leads one is the ground, [from chassis] the other is a ground for something else, [daisy chained] I have never tried to figure out what it is a ground for so I do not know if it is low current or high current, if it is grounding a 5A load then even your 3A switch is not big enough.
The simple fix is to disconnect both the blacks, [not just the ground input] and connect them both to one side of the switch, [daisy chained load is not interrupted if switch is off] and connect either one, [or both] of the other ends, going to PGM-FI Main Relay] to the other terminal of the switch.
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when moving the main relay, do the wires need to be extended or do I just need to unwrap the loom?
I am just wondering roughly how long this will take so I can do it after work or save it for the weekend.
I am just wondering roughly how long this will take so I can do it after work or save it for the weekend.
fcm and the others here have now convinced me that a main relay kill switch is better than my fuel pump kill switch that I had planned to install.
I have a 94 Accord. Is there any instructions anywhere that shows what I would need to do to relocated the main relay? I would like to wire this up to one of my stock switches. I was thinking of getting a sunroof switch and connecting it to that, but I am not sure how that would work since this is a one touch contact switch. Maybe I could wire it to my cruise control switch instead. Could I wire it too my stock cruise control switch and just run a straight ground wire from the switch (assuming that the output is ground) to my Main relay keeping it as a two-in-one switch?
What do you think? I think the cruise control switch is the same size as my sunroof switch, so I could just get two cruise control switches,and just switch them around and remove the label from the cruise control one. This might draw attention to my switch though.
I have a 94 Accord. Is there any instructions anywhere that shows what I would need to do to relocated the main relay? I would like to wire this up to one of my stock switches. I was thinking of getting a sunroof switch and connecting it to that, but I am not sure how that would work since this is a one touch contact switch. Maybe I could wire it to my cruise control switch instead. Could I wire it too my stock cruise control switch and just run a straight ground wire from the switch (assuming that the output is ground) to my Main relay keeping it as a two-in-one switch?
What do you think? I think the cruise control switch is the same size as my sunroof switch, so I could just get two cruise control switches,and just switch them around and remove the label from the cruise control one. This might draw attention to my switch though.
A CC switch output is 12V+, [normally] but it could be a ground output if the input is wired to ground.
Question, do you use your cig. lighter?
If not, it could be used to supply the ground for the PGM-FI Main Relay, cut the 12V+ lead to the lighter and connect the PGM-FI Main Relays ground to the lighters 12V+ input, push the lighter in for a ground, to make sure a crook can't figure it out have a "dead" lighter plugged into the socket and carry, [or stash in car] a good lighter.
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Question, do you use your cig. lighter?
If not, it could be used to supply the ground for the PGM-FI Main Relay, cut the 12V+ lead to the lighter and connect the PGM-FI Main Relays ground to the lighters 12V+ input, push the lighter in for a ground, to make sure a crook can't figure it out have a "dead" lighter plugged into the socket and carry, [or stash in car] a good lighter.
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humm. I am not sure if this could work for me. I do use lighter socket output for my GPS, cell phone charger and a small 75W power inverter.
I had purchased one of those 3 plugs socket extension cigarette lighter adapters, and cut the wires and solder it to the wires on the back of the cigarette lighter. In effect, I do not use the stock one much except to test if my 3-plug socket is messing up.
Could this still work for me?
This sound like the lighter could 'pop out' on me while driving though. It sounds like a great idea. I will look into it further. Could I just disconnect the wires from the back of the lighter, and connect a new ground wire to it and send it to the main relay? How would this work, since I still want power to my external lighter sockets.
EDIT: I saw this link http://www.miata.net/garage/killswitch.html
This guy used a relay. Could I just use regular wires since it would only be a grounding wire, or would it be better to use a relay?
Modified by professorman at 3:09 PM 10/28/2008
I had purchased one of those 3 plugs socket extension cigarette lighter adapters, and cut the wires and solder it to the wires on the back of the cigarette lighter. In effect, I do not use the stock one much except to test if my 3-plug socket is messing up.
Could this still work for me?
This sound like the lighter could 'pop out' on me while driving though. It sounds like a great idea. I will look into it further. Could I just disconnect the wires from the back of the lighter, and connect a new ground wire to it and send it to the main relay? How would this work, since I still want power to my external lighter sockets.
EDIT: I saw this link http://www.miata.net/garage/killswitch.html
This guy used a relay. Could I just use regular wires since it would only be a grounding wire, or would it be better to use a relay?
Modified by professorman at 3:09 PM 10/28/2008
The lighter will not pop out as it will not heat up, [power is disconnected] You will not need to add a ground as it already has a ground, you will only cut the power lead to the lighter.
94
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so, can I share this ground lead with the rest of my lighter socket 3 socket extension?
So, with this, I would cut the positive, and from the positive of the old disconnected lighter socket, I would run this to my main relay wire that I cut off? Seem like a pretty easy mod.
So, with this, I would cut the positive, and from the positive of the old disconnected lighter socket, I would run this to my main relay wire that I cut off? Seem like a pretty easy mod.
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From: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
Its a very easy mod that is really hard to get around to start the car. If you have a fuel kill you should run this instead. How do you think theives drive off with your car with the fuel pump kill. They bypass it in seconds. Not very hard to do and can be done in seconds.
when moving the main relay, do you guys just put it higher up. Would it ok to just ziptie it up there. I was under the dash the other day for a while and could not find anywhere to bolt up the relay. I was able to feel some wires and some empty space where I might have been able to ziptie it to the wiring loom. It was starting to get dark and I didn't want to pull the fusebox out of the way to try and get more clearance to hopefully bolt it up. This is for a 95 integra.
yea, i understand, i was just worried that if it wasn't secured that it might vibrate or get banged around and cause premature failure of the relay. It might also be a pain to change out if it gets tangled in the loom. I guess I'll look at some new areas to mount the relay. I just read above that wrx mentioned he moved it to the top of the dash.
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From: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
Up to the top of the dash, Behind the cc box and bolt it back. As long as a theif can not get to it or find it. Thats the best spot to put it. The key is to make it look stock. Its kind of hard to find it when the alarm is blaring, mini siren is going off under the dash. And your out in the open trying to steal a car.
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