I'm wiring up my kill switch right now and I hooked it up the the yellow/green wire, but the car runs when the switch is in both positions. I think I cut the ignition wire. What I need is the 12V from the battery so it won't work at all. Helms manual says it's yellow/white, but there isn't a yellow/white wire there. Is it yellow/blue????

 

Never mind, It was the right wire...I just had to let the car run for a little before the fuel pressure dropped and the engine to cut out.
I guess the theives (If they ever try) will only get about 10 ft down the road before they wonder what the hell just happened to the car.

 

where did you find this wire that you tapped to connect the kill switch...any pics? i plan on doing this as well. Thanks and any help would be appreciated

 

You can get creative with relays to give you even more layers of protection. For example: in addition to your kill-switch, link to other factory switches like the cruise control switch. This way, the theif has to find that other "secret" switch in addition to the kill-switch so the fuel doesn't cut off. Also, instead of a switch use a keypad-controlled relay. It will be a lot harder to guess someone's PIN than finding a switch. If anyone wants more info, I can go into further detail.

 

Yeah. Please go into more detail. I have'nt thought of trying this with my kill switch.

 

 

Method #1 - FOR THOSE WHO ALREADY HAVE A SWITCH ON THE FUEL PUMP

This method is straightforward and builds upon the idea of using a toggle or rocker switch to cut the power going to the fuel pump. You will need a 12V Bosch relay to complete the job. Disconnect the power wire for the fuel pump from the existing switch. The battery or fuse box side of the wire will go to pin 87 on the relay. The pump side of the wire will go to pin 30 on the relay. Pin 85 on the relay will go a 12V+ ignition source and pin 86 will go to the toggle/rocker switch. The other end of the switch must go to a ground source. Make sure the switch is providing a ground signal to the relay when it is in whatever you determine to be the "on" direction.

Method #2 - Using a keypad-controlled relay to replace a toggle or rocker switch

For this method you will need the 103T from DEI (should be available at any DEI dealer or they can order it for you). Follow the instructions for the stand alone starter-kill install but instead of cutting the starter wire, cut the wire for the fuel pump (most of you already have this wire cut). I'm assuming that most people already have alarms with starter-kill relays, if you don't you can use either the starter wire or the fuel pump wire.

Hints:
Try to mount the relay in a place that is extremely hard to reach - make it so that you have to unbolt a lot of stuff to get to it. Also try use all black wiring (16 gauge or larger - make sure extensions for the fuel pump wire are of the same gauge or larger). You'll most likely have to extend wire runs to make everything well-hidden. Lastly make sure all connections are soldered or crimped correctly. As with a lot of other tweaks for your car, proceed at your own risk and make sure all connections are verified with a digital volt-meter. More methods using factory switches to follow.




[Modified by HondaDriver4Life, 11:17 AM 3/14/2003]

 

Method # 3 - Using your cruise control switch as a secret switch.

Parts Needed:
(2) 12V Bosch Relays
Extra Black 16 gauge wire

Disconnect the existing fuel pump wires from your switch. Using one relay (relay #1), connect pin 87 to the battery/fuse box side of the fuel pump power wire. Connect pin 30 to the pump side of the wire. Connect pin 85 to the wire that reads 12v+ coming out of your cruise control switch when it is depressed (usually the lead the feeds power to LED on the switch - ignition must be turned on....also this wire must not show 12V+ when the ignition is off). Connect pin 86 to pin 30 on the other relay (relay #2). Connect pin 87 of relay #2 to ground. Connect pin 85 of relay #2 to a 12V+ ignition source and pin 86 to your switch. Connect the other end of the switch to ground. Verify the direction of your switch to make sure you know which side is on or off. When the switch is on, a ground signal should be sent to the relay. Also make sure the relays are well-hidden and all wiring is concealed.

Test: Turn on ignition, press cruise control switch, flip toggle switch and start the car. Test fuel pump wire to make sure 12V is flowing. Also car should continue to run. If it shuts off, the fuel pump is not getting 12V. Make sure the toggle switch is in the right direction. Verify all connections at this point. Like I said in the previous post, verify all connections with a digital volt-meter and proceed with caution.


[Modified by HondaDriver4Life, 11:19 AM 3/14/2003]

 

Method #4 - Using a keypad in place of a toggle/rocker switch

Parts Needed:
(2) 12V Bosch Relays
DEI 103T

Disconnect the existing fuel pump wires from your switch. Using one relay (relay #1), connect pin 87 to the battery/fuse box side of the fuel pump power wire. Connect pin 30 to the pump side of the wire. Connect pin 85 to the wire that reads 12v+ coming out of your cruise control switch when it is depressed (usually the lead the feeds power to LED on the switch - ignition must be turned on). Connect pin 86 to pin 30 on the other relay (relay #2). Connect pin 87 of relay #2 to ground. Connect pin 85 of relay #2 to a 12V+ ignition source and pin 86 to the orange wire coming out of the 103T control unit. Follow the other instructions for a stand-alone install. Relay #2 just replaces the relay DEI shows in their wiring diagram. Make sure the relays and control unit are well-hidden and all wiring is concealed.

Test: Follow the same test sequence in the previous post.

 

just a note of caution...

if that relay, connection or circuit ever fails and cuts the fuel line while driving it can be dangerous...say at 75mph on the freeway...

Please make sure the parts you use are reliable and the connections are soldered. And if you have the slightest fear of wires, please have a pro do it.

I've been a tech for 12+ years and have seen alot of mistakes that lead to disaster.

 

I totally agree with STSProtege. Please make sure you know what you're doing and that all connections are verified with a digital volt-meter. If you have any doubts or have never worked with relays before....DO NOT ATTEMPT ON YOUR OWN! Also, use only BOSCH relays. All the other ones are junk. I always replace the DEI-supplied relays with BOSCH units.

 

The kill switch does not work well with the older carbuarated hondas I found out. At my local track they race a cheap 4 cylinder class and I got a 86 Honda Accord for about $100 that ran fine and looked ok and not till I got it on the high banks of the track did I find out that the fuel pump was bad. The car runs at 70lbs of vaccuum so it was sucking the fuel right past the pump all by itself. When I got it on the track the g force I guess would not allow the fuel in because I could go slow around the track but not full speed which defeats the racing part of it. LOL Anyways on the road the car was fine even without a full pump the hole time. I would say if you have a older carb type car try taking the fuse out for the fuel pump and see how your car does before you do all this work to it if it will not help you. Just though I would share the weird fact that a carb honda can run with out a fuel pump.

 

Taking the fuse out first to make sure it will not run with the pump off is a great idea. If it still runs how about splicing into the neutral safety switch?

 

That's also a good idea. The only problem is the location of the factory-installed starter-kill relay. It's in the same location from one car to the next (same model of course).

 

Is an isolating diode neccessary for this type of kill switch?

 

Yes....if you're using an alarm with multiple devices connected to the ground-when-armed output. If you're just using a toggle switch then it won't be necessary.