I have a 12" w6v2 in a custom box to JL's specs. With a 500/1 amp, even though they are often underrated when it comes to output in watts, the w6v2 with its 400w RMS power rating should be fine right? JL's warranty doesn't cover burnt voice coils and the chart on their website indicates that 500+ watts may be pushing it too hard. Car Audio pros, what do you think? especially ppl with JL experience ownership, your .02 is appreciated.

P.S. I already bought the amp, I just want to make sure before I get it installed. I assumed its a great setup, you know, JL with JL, so I hope it's ok...

 

I'll chime in here as well.
But I had 2 12w6v2s on a Punch 800.2 which was rated at 1043watts.
So those subs were getting around 520ish a peace and you could barely see them have any excursion(outwards movemtent) and in a ported box.So again i'd definitely say you safe with a 500/1.Good Luck.post some pics when your done.peace.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gimme_h22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 12" w6v2 in a custom box to JL's specs. With a 500/1 amp, even though they are often underrated when it comes to output in watts, the w6v2 with its 400w RMS power rating should be fine right? JL's warranty doesn't cover burnt voice coils and the chart on their website indicates that 500+ watts may be pushing it too hard. Car Audio pros, what do you think? especially ppl with JL experience ownership, your .02 is appreciated.

P.S. I already bought the amp, I just want to make sure before I get it installed. I assumed its a great setup, you know, JL with JL, so I hope it's ok...</TD></TR></TABLE> Better to be over powered then under powered, you can always back off on the amp gain a little. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Better to be over powered then under powered, you can always back off on the amp gain a little. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>
Gain is not an controller of how much power is fed.
But he will be fine. You want more than the rated rms for the subs to give you headroom.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spider Man &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Gain is not an controller of how much power is fed.
But he will be fine. You want more than the rated rms for the subs to give you headroom.</TD></TR></TABLE>What? so what is it then? 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Better to be over powered then under powered, you can always back off on the amp gain a little. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is completely wrong.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> What? so what is it then? 94</TD></TR></TABLE>
Gain is simply the gain of the amplifier. In other words it is the amplification mutiplier. So say your amp has a gain of 160 then you would take the input signal and multiply it by 160 and this would be your output. So assume you have 500mV input signal multiply it by 160 and you get 80V. Now assume you have a 80V rail if you were to hook this up to a deck that has 4v outputs then you could obviously see that you will exceed the rails and saturate the amplifier. This is why gain ***** were built into amplifiers. There is no way for the manufacturer to know what everyone is going to use for a output voltage. So they provide this so the amplifier is compatible with more stereos.

The gain **** could be used to regulate ouput power. If you set you gain low, then the maximum power of the amplifier will never be reached. This depends entirely on how you set it up but it can be done. I still like low level stereos &lt;1v max output.