I'm going to install a remote start and keyless entry on my 95 se auto sedan teggy. Are there any write ups or how to's?
I found the wiring colors on the12volt.com but also found this
file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/pportu/Desktop/1994-2001%20Acura%20Integra%20Wire%20Colors%20Locations .htm
And they seem to be a little different.
I'm not looking for a stealth install as it's not an alarm. Also where can I get those plugs that plug directly into the fuse box?

I have done multiple wiring, soldering projects before, but an alarm, I've only done 1 before and not on a integra.

 

Your link does not work.

Here is one more, it is accurate... http://64.85.6.121/diagrams/printpag...12671&MakeID=6

The female "Quick Disconnect" can be found at any electronics supply store, most auto parts stores, any car audio/security shop, Radio Shack, the list goes on.

There are all sorts of write ups, lots of them here.

If you have questions feel free to ask.

A hint to start, do as much work on a bench as you can, starting with removing, [de-pinning] any leads you do not need...
Example, the "5th relay", [2nd starter, ign. or acc. relay] and/or any of it's wiring, door trigger leads and so on, if it's not needed, remove it. 94

 

Is that link from directtechs?
Does the teggy have a power trunk?

Also can I just use those vampire or T clips for the install? I read somewhere that they can't handle the current and melt over time, any truth to this?

 

In my manual, it says not to use those. I'm about to install mine for the first time as well. On my viper manual, it recommend solder. I read you can use non insulated butt conectors and then heat shrink them.

 

Holy crap was this thing a PITA. I worked on it for 6 hours yesterday soldering every connection and whatnot.
Here are the problems I have run into.
45 min of searching and cutting into wire looms and searching on the web for the ****ing horn wire. Finally I found a post saying to use the 4 pin connector (white) (brown wire) to the right of the fuse box. I couldn't for the life of me find it in the steering column.

Here is another big waste of over 1 hour. Looking for the damn door lock wires. I thought it was behind the grey box under the kick panel, nope, it's above it. take off that cruise box and it's all the way up there. According to the instructions it says there are 2 grey plugs, nope, 1 fat grey one and 1 brown one.
I couldn't for the life of me get these unplugged or get that white clip around it off for nothing. So I found another spot to get the wires, but I didn't have my good strippers with me so my ghetto ones decided to cut the wire in half instead of strip it. uch:
So now, the car won't start and the doors won't lock or unlock. My arm is in a LOT of pain from leaning on it so much.
next time I get under the car I have to fix the cut wire, and wire in the door locks. not sure why it won't start. Doesn't even crank. I'm thinking it can either be the hood pin or I have the wires backwards for the starter. Either way it's an easy fix if it's one of those.
I also didn't wire in the dome light since I have no use for it. I don't think the car has a power trunk so I don't need that wire. Also I don't want to hook up the rear window defrost because that will serve no purpose in the summer.

All else I can say is holy wires batman. You think they could have made this thing wayyyyyy more compact. Like not needing 3 power wires of 10gauge each and then a 18g power wire etc etc. Also I don't see the need for a LED light since it's a remote start and not an alarm, but hey whatever, it blinks and looks like an alarm.

Also here is a tip, if you don't have the right size (9/32 for me) drill bit, use whatever you have, stick the light or button in there, and flip it upside down and put hot glue on it. It will dry and stay in place no problem. And hot glue is not a conductor so it's ok to get it on the wires or metal contacts.

Also how in the world do you people access the brake wire??? This is the only wire I had to use a T clip because I couldn't get up there to even unplug it.

 

I used a razor blade and stripped some of the sheathing away. Then wrapped the wire around it and solder it. Probably not the best but it will hold just fine. Some of those spots are tough to get at.

 

Well let me finish off by saying this job sucked *****.

I could not get the car to crank from the remote for the life of me. Followed the directions to the T. Had my friend check over my wires over and over and over again. Step by step, wire by wire. After trying everything possible, I said eh let me try something and reversed the starter wires and she fired right up.
It specifically says green goes to the key side and purple goes to the starter side, well that didn't do anything. I switched them around and bam she works.

Only thing I have to figure out now, is sometimes when I unlock the doors they will unlock then lock by themselves right away. I've had this problem for a few months now and it only happens every now and then. Anyone got any recommendations?

 

No idea on the locking thing.

I had no issues wiring it up. The one wire went to the wire going to the key. The other went on the other side. Yours could be correct but maybe they are twisted up under your ignition.

 

It said purple goes to the starter and green goes to the key. That way didn't work.

 

With the idiot-feature Honda put on their driver's door lock, having the door open will prevent it from changing its lock state. Meaning it will try to unlock, sense the driver's door still half-locked, and relock. Same for locking. My brother ripped a door apart and figured it out, I just haven't had him opperate on my doors. Its the worst feature IMO - it becomes instinct to pull+lock that you'll do it regardless of having your keys still in the car.

See if you can also change the length it tries to lock/unlock your doors. It may be too short, and does the above crap because it senses a half-open lock. If yours has lots of miles on it, you may have to add some axle grease to the guides on all the lock rods.

 

If you figure out how to bypass this stupid feature, please let me know.

 

The drivers door lock actuator has a switch in it, SPDT, it is "sticking", it can be disabled by unplugging the blue/white lead from the "Power Door Lock Control Unit" or at the plug to the actuator itself.

The remote start can be used as an immobilizer, [starter kill] that's why there is an ign. switch side and a starter side wire for the starter lead connection, once you lock the doors you arm the immobilizer, the relay that is used to remote start the car is also the starter cut relay, try it, sit in car, lock the doors and try and start the car.

Where did you get the remote start from?
It sounds like the starter in and starter out wires were pinned wrong.94

 

It's a refirb dei 562t. Got it from a local forum new in box.
SPDT?
Take the door panel off and unplug the blue/white wire?

Sounds like a easy fix, now if I can only get my ignition key to stop sticking from time to time the car will be great.