GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

I own a 1995 Honda Civic VX Hatchback. The car is completely stock under the hood and exterior (IE: wheels, etc.). I intend of keeping it that way. It is my daily driver. I have recently had a new paint job on the vehicle and it's in immaculate shape.

The only security I have on the vehicle is a fairly new 2-way pager system w/ remote start from Viper. I don't have the model that pages your phone. I am going to be adding the following to the Viper install: hood pop, tilt sensor, field sensor.

I will also be adding an GPS tracker that will have the fuel cut-off feature enabled.

I understand security comes in layering. I also understand that the older Civics are somewhat more desirable to steal and are easier to bypass their security. I tend not to leave expensive items in the car. I have 5% on the car too.

I'm wondering, are thieves less likely to target my vehicle because it's obvious I have a stock motor and exterior (minus the paint job)? If not, what other devices would be recommended I utilize in securing my vehicle? I've seen the Pitbull tirelock, Bulldog CC100 Autoclamp (has been tested, etc. I like this one), misc. other clamps that are out there. I've seen recommendations for multiple dedicated hidden fuel cut-off switches. Someone on here even recommended to shave the door handles, replace all the glass with security glass, security film, VIN window etching kits, Ravelco, etc. etc.

I personally was going to go with 2 wheel clamps of some sort, just for added protection. I go to school and it'd be the easiest device to use to use while still retaining my remote start functionality. I personally don't wish to shave my door handles, but if it's that much of an improvement in security, I will consider doing it.

I am not an installer by any means. I also don't live in a high auto-theft neighborhood. Budget isn't really that much of a concern, but I'm wondering what is reasonable to protect my Civic. Obviously that is partially my opinion, but I am interested in hearing everyone's input as well. Also, please spare me the "if they wanna steal it, they are going to steal it." & "nothing will beat a tow truck". I understand that completely .

Thanks!

MotoCARR

You have to think about what is your main concern in terms of vehicle security. If you're concerned about smash and grab or getting your wheels stolen, then you will want hood pop, tilt sensor, field sensor, glass break, etc. so that your car makes noise and hopefully discourage a would be thief from continuing to pillage your belongings.

If you are more concerned about your car actually being stolen, then skip all those sensors because to be honest, if someone is pro enough to actually be able to drive off with your car, those sensors aren't really going to slow them much, or they will be able to defeat them quickly. Skip the additional sensors and go straight to your GPS with some sort of fuel cut. I would also invest in some mini piezo sirens/pain generators with a battery backup and install 1-2 of them under the hood and in the cabin under the steering column area where a thief would be working.

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

I'm more concerned with the car itself being stolen. I keep hearing from different people that the car would be stolen for just the motor, or the car would be stolen for the shell. Either way, I'm unsure how likely my car would be targeted, so I'm taking precautions.

If someone is pro enough to defeat those additional sensors, doesn't that mean a piezo speaker is just as vulnerable?

I came up with this idea today. I'm not sure if I'm the first, but I thought it was worth a shot. Has anyone tried installing a mechanical fuel cut-off? I'm not talking about a kill switch to the pump. I'm talking about interrupting the flow of fuel from the tank to the engine with a solenoid valve under the car. My thinking behind this is quite simple. I would imagine that most pro thieves would be looking for kill switches, and the typical deterrents for these kinds of cars. Would anyone really be looking for a fuel cut-off that's not electrical?

You didn't mention a whole lot on booting your own car. If I purchased a quality boot that isn't easily defeated, is that not worth it?

MotoCARR

To a point, but if you've ever heard one of these 100db+ sirens, let alone two of them, it's difficult to continue to function with them blowing your ears off. There's a reason they're called "pain generators"

Sure that would be effective, but I feel most would get tired of having to boot their car everywhere.

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

I agree on the getting tired part. I'm trying to come with ways that won't become too tedious where I'll just stop doing them after a while. That's why I liked the passive fuel pump cut-off. For most daily driving, I wouldn't want to go crazy immobilizing my car each time I go somewhere.

I might still get a boot for those very rare times I'm parked on the street and couldn't put the car in a garage. I do have an Auto-Lok, but after seeing the Auto-Lok buster, I really lost all confidence in it.

I was browsing the internet last night and found that 3M makes a product called Scotch Guard. It goes on the outside of the window and is made to delay a break-in. I might consider that. Then again, a thief can always break the door handle with a screw driver, no? Which would mean I would have to get a door popper kit. There's a lot to secure...

I just spoke with my technician who does most of my installs. He informed me that when my alarm was rewired, he doesn't believe the installer wired it in a stealth manner. So, the unit is tapped relatively low on the main harness. I believe the brain is above the fuse box where the left side air vent is. I think what I'll do is add 2 of those sirens for now. I'll also add a relayed kill switch that goes in the engine bay near the brake booster. I saw a pretty easy guide on that one.

I may even buy a the plug that goes into the engine wiring harness just besides the brake booster. It's a square plug with about 4 pins in it. If I got a replacement, I could cut all the pins out and swap plugs when I leave the car in a sketchy area. It would appear to look like nothing was touched since the plug wouldn't be missing. I thought that was a good idea as well, but again there's no way I'll want to do this on a daily occurrence.

I'm not sure if this helps, but I'm trying to defeat common thieves. Obviously if someone scouts my vehicle and plans to steal it, that's a completely different scenario. I'd like to protect myself as best as I can for the times where I have to leave it on the street overnight, etc.

I can't say it's peaceful owning this car, but I do love it! :D

98civdx

INSTALL INSTALL INSTALL. I can't say it enough. I willing to bet that alarm is in an easily accessible area, which you do not want!

No point to add all those sensors if you have a **** install.

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to relocate the Viper alarm. Preferably somewhere difficult to access without taking the entire dash out.

Can you add anything to the other suggestions I've made?

98civdx

Put the alarm under the seat.

Tilt sensor, shock sensor, (if the sensor isn't in the brain it self) back up battery, glass break sensor.
2+ sirens outside, with horn honk. 2+ sirens inside. You'll need a relay to do this.
Light flash.
Main relay kill off the alarm. You'll 2 relays to do this. Adding another kill wouldn't hurt at all. More things that cost thieves time/**** them off the better.


Make the car so ******* annoying that people will want to look at what's making that noise. And in turn get the thief to give or get caught.

djkurious

Here are some ideas:

How to install a car alarm. DIY car theft security for Honda and Acura, especially DEI brand Viper products.

NVturbo

Here's my old DIY from another forum. Yes, it works because thieves won't be able to remove the ignition switch.

Civic EG :: View topic - DIY: theft deterrent method

RS Design

i can tell you the easiest way to disable your car from getting stolen except being towed away , works well with many alarms or even a manual system...

you basically run a relay as a positive to neagtive polarity.. find the ground on the main relay and wire the relay inline before the main relay.. by doing this if you remove power from the alarm it cannot switch the relay ground on ..most alarms disable the system after the main relay ..by this method the only absolute way to get the car going is to keep the power on the car and the alarm intact its alot easier to do with those cheap chip key systems that usually comes with comes thats mounted under thr steering column ..

MotoCARR

"suspended hatch" on the forum has some good ideas as well.

98civdx

I'll share some things I'm doing, but obviously I don't really want to post pictures of it.

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

The alarm is going to be as stealthy as it can be with the added sensors. For one, I'll have the installer grab the starter wire behind the fuse box. That way the starter wire can't be tapped at all. The alarm will be shoved so far into the dash, no one will be able to remove it without removing the entire dash itself. This eliminates the need for extra relay's and kill switches. Obviously I'm not safe against towing, but this seems reasonable.

NVturbo

He and I had a bit of a disagreement about my idea. It's not a sole means of theft deterrent but it helps along with hidden kill switches and properly installed alarm setup. To date, people who I did this mod for, their cars are still intact.

fcm

Add a redundant, self arming latching relay, a hidden momentary switch, [to latch the relay] it will de-latch when ign. is turned off, [passive arming], that relay can be installed on any line, pos. or neg. lead, I would do it on the ground to the PGM-FI Main Relay 94

baller status

If there were two suspendedHatch's together in one place, they'd disagree with each other. Don't take it personally haha

NVturbo

haha...no offense taken

conor97hx

Get a garage.

feck

It's certainly another layer NV and a delaying tactic and thanks for the link and your time, though not one I'd personally rely on. The reason I say that is I had a JDM Teg(SiR) stolen 15 years back and on that example anyway the bolts/screws had ground off heads from factory. The scumbags just levered it off with a screwdriver. You could see where they had jammed it in.

Luckily I got my car back*, so I was able to see how easily they had stolen it and vowed they wouldn't find it so easy again. I did lots of research, online and off and looked at it logically. I found the Suspendedhatch chaps page later on and he really was a game changer for me. I reckon those out there that followed his advice have kept their cars because of him. I have a huge amount of time for the chap because of that. FCM above is another I've read avidly and gratefully down the years. He may have to dumb it down for morons like me mind you. EG

That sounds like a great idea, but it may as well be in Klingon for the likes of me. In fairness I require diagrams in crayon and no big words when it comes to car electrics.

FWIW the layers I have on my Teg Type R(DC2) are removable steering wheel, "stealth alarm" a la Suspendedhatch(though FWIW his location for the alarm brain on a JDM integra isn't the best as they usually didn't come with rear speakers so you can just shove your hand in. Not an issue for US/UK/EDM). The Viper I have is Thatcham approved so it kills three separate circuits. Two of which are killed outside the cabin and look stock(tnx to SH yet again). I got rid of the shock sensor as they false way too much for me. Also got rid of the ultrasonics(popular sensors outside the US) as again too many false alarms. I have tilt, glass break and proximity. The latter took ages to dial in but is great now. No false alarms for years. I have a separate lock on the bonnet/hood as you can open them on the JDM's from the outside. I also have a separate anti hijack that acts like the car is breaking down(I didn't connect to siren or lights). And the steering column can be locked with a padlock. Locking nuts on the wheels, of course and other things.

Paranoid? Hell yes, but the scum will require a flatbed truck to steal it and even then it'll cause a big racket while they're trying. I refuse to make it easy for them.









*In most cases around my neck of the woods the scum just burn them out. They don't even strip them so often either. A mate's Type R Civic EK9 was stolen, the scum drove it around at high speed in a not exactly salubrious part of town, then set fire to it. These subhumans can be so dim they watched as many thousands of quid in parts went up in smoke. Sadly the local police are usually about much use as teats on a bull TBH. It's partially their fault, but mostly the Irish judicial system that has a revolving door policy. In most cases the scum even when convicted walk free.

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

Left the best advice in the sticky above.....I seen no one mentioned a dei 520t...smh

feck

They're a fantastic extra layer, but I've personally had trouble with two of them on two of my cars. In both cases they went bad after around 18months where they'd not take a charge, but would drain the main car battery to the point where that needed replacement(the first time it happened. I was wise to it the second). Both were sourced through local DEI agents too(clifford). I've also known similar happen with the battery backup sirens. My engine bay is secured beyond the woefully inadequate factory lock* and not accessible without a separate key so in the end I personally figured the headache wasn't worth it.




*way worse on the JDM front Integra, where you can see and grab the release cable from the outside. Doh!

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

Its a good ideal to change them after that long....the ones that come with it is okay. I allways upgrade them to the power sonic brand.....24 months no issue and still holding a charge..... We never install with out a dei 520t. You have to cover all bases.....what good with a alarm when the power is removed.

feck

Might look further into the Power Sonic options WRX and if I can source them from my neck of the woods. And thanks for the info(as per usual, you Sir, along with Fcm and Suspendedhatch are my personal holy trinity of lads to listen to ).

And yes I fully go along with your take on the alarm is no use without secondary power. In my case I got so well bloody weirded out with how daftly "were they drunk at that Honda meeting?" easy it was to pop the bonnet/hood on a JDM Integra that ten years ago I looked into securing same. And I have, to the degree that it requires two keys and a bit of insider knowledge to open said bonnet/hood on mine. And the way the car electrician chap I know(I can barely be trusted with wiring a plug TBH) has set up my alarm, whereby even if the scum kill the power, the alarm and the three kills fail open circuit so it still won't start. Without such paranoia, then yes, most certainly a backup battery for your alarm is, or should be a given and advice worth taking. Again, as per usual with your advice.

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

Check out my facebook page. Your in for a big surprize on our work load. Ill try and see if i can ship you one.