how much power?
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From: nacogdoches, tx
how much power?
How big of an amp can you run off of the stock charging system and be ok im looking for daily driven and burping every now and then. OBviously daily driven the amp will be turned way down but still will be putting out good power.
Old Fart
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From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: how much power? (jamescb77)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jamescb77 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How big of an amp can you run off of the stock charging system and be ok im looking for daily driven and burping every now and then. OBviously daily driven the amp will be turned way down but still will be putting out good power.</TD></TR></TABLE> That depends, as most alt. in cars are about 10% bigger then they need to be, if you are running everything in your car, [driving at night, high beems on, radio blasting, wipers and heater rear window defogger all on] so you really have no room for any amp, but as all of that is is not running all the time at full tilt, you can get away with an amp, and depending on how much of that available currant you use, [when daily driving] will determine how big an amp you can use, before it draws down the batt. faster then the alt. can keep it charged.
Here is a chart on how many amps, [currant] it takes to make watts http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
My rule is, anything over 100 watts needs one, once you approach 500 watts you better get a bigger alt., as you will need around 70A, [probably more then the stock alt. puts out]
94
Here is a chart on how many amps, [currant] it takes to make watts http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
My rule is, anything over 100 watts needs one, once you approach 500 watts you better get a bigger alt., as you will need around 70A, [probably more then the stock alt. puts out]
94
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From: Little Falls, NY, US
Re: how much power? (fcm)
For what you are talking about I wouldn't worry about an alternator yet. An optima battery though is a must have with any system, especially if you want to burp it. You burp on a regular battery and it's going to drop to 9v or less real quick if you are using any decent size amp.
I'm setting up a system right now to compete in the Stock 1-160 class. I'm running a 3000 watt Power Bass amp(mono channel), and one 12" RE MT. I'm keeping the stock alternator and getting two Optima yellow tops. One for under the hood and one for the hatch. I'm going to run two strands of 0 gauge between the batterys and possibly four from the back battery to the system to keep from dropping the volts too low.
I'm setting up a system right now to compete in the Stock 1-160 class. I'm running a 3000 watt Power Bass amp(mono channel), and one 12" RE MT. I'm keeping the stock alternator and getting two Optima yellow tops. One for under the hood and one for the hatch. I'm going to run two strands of 0 gauge between the batterys and possibly four from the back battery to the system to keep from dropping the volts too low.
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From: Little Falls, NY, US
Re: how much power? (gsrjrsc)
Yeah the MT is pretty much the best SPL sub on the market. They can take a shitload of power and they are loud as hell. If you blow it all you do is recone it. My buddy did a 148 with one 12 on about 2500 watts from one amp. Freaking unbelievable. 
Old Fart
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From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: how much power? (crxhybrid85)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxhybrid85 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For what you are talking about I wouldn't worry about an alternator yet. An optima battery though is a must have with any system, especially if you want to burp it. You burp on a regular battery and it's going to drop to 9v or less real quick if you are using any decent size amp.
I'm setting up a system right now to compete in the Stock 1-160 class. I'm running a 3000 watt Power Bass amp(mono channel), and one 12" RE MT. I'm keeping the stock alternator and getting two Optima yellow tops. One for under the hood and one for the hatch. I'm going to run two strands of 0 gauge between the batterys and possibly four from the back battery to the system to keep from dropping the volts too low.</TD></TR></TABLE> Let me get this straight, you are building a system to compete on the "stock 1-160 watt class, but you are installing a 3000 watt amp, how is that stock, and how the hell are you going to compete in the 1-160 watt class with a 3000 watt amp in your car
As an installer, with over 30 years experience, I would like to know how you are going to run a 3000 watt system, without burning out the stock alt., [I mean, without just not playing it] as you will need well over 200 amps to make anywhere near 3000 watts
One more thing......Brahahahahahahahahah. How exactly do you connect "possibly 4 0ga (strands)" to a 3000 watt amp
Reminder to myself, add quoted post to dumbest things I have ever heard on H/T list. 94
I'm setting up a system right now to compete in the Stock 1-160 class. I'm running a 3000 watt Power Bass amp(mono channel), and one 12" RE MT. I'm keeping the stock alternator and getting two Optima yellow tops. One for under the hood and one for the hatch. I'm going to run two strands of 0 gauge between the batterys and possibly four from the back battery to the system to keep from dropping the volts too low.</TD></TR></TABLE> Let me get this straight, you are building a system to compete on the "stock 1-160 watt class, but you are installing a 3000 watt amp, how is that stock, and how the hell are you going to compete in the 1-160 watt class with a 3000 watt amp in your car
As an installer, with over 30 years experience, I would like to know how you are going to run a 3000 watt system, without burning out the stock alt., [I mean, without just not playing it] as you will need well over 200 amps to make anywhere near 3000 watts
One more thing......Brahahahahahahahahah. How exactly do you connect "possibly 4 0ga (strands)" to a 3000 watt amp
Reminder to myself, add quoted post to dumbest things I have ever heard on H/T list.
94
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From: Beavertown, OR
Re: how much power? (fcm)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Here is a chart on how many amps, [currant] it takes to make watts http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
My rule is, anything over 100 watts needs one, once you approach 500 watts you better get a bigger alt., as you will need around 70A, [probably more then the stock alt. puts out] 94</TD></TR></TABLE>
These numbers don't work for class D amplifiers. These were made for class AB amplifiers and are conservative, in that they provide more current then what is required.
I would assume when he says he has a 3000 watt amplifier he just intends to play it for a few seonds at that power level for SPL competion. While it wont be good for the alternator it "should" survive. I would be more worried about the ESR in the battery then I would the cable. At that current level the battery is what will cause your voltage drop. How do you fix it? Add more batteries in parallel which will decrease the ESR.
My rule is, anything over 100 watts needs one, once you approach 500 watts you better get a bigger alt., as you will need around 70A, [probably more then the stock alt. puts out]
94</TD></TR></TABLE>These numbers don't work for class D amplifiers. These were made for class AB amplifiers and are conservative, in that they provide more current then what is required.
I would assume when he says he has a 3000 watt amplifier he just intends to play it for a few seonds at that power level for SPL competion. While it wont be good for the alternator it "should" survive. I would be more worried about the ESR in the battery then I would the cable. At that current level the battery is what will cause your voltage drop. How do you fix it? Add more batteries in parallel which will decrease the ESR.
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Old Fart
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From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: how much power? (nsxxtreme)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
These numbers don't work for class D amplifiers. These were made for class AB amplifiers and are conservative, in that they provide more current then what is required.
I would assume when he says he has a 3000 watt amplifier he just intends to play it for a few seonds at that power level for SPL competion. While it wont be good for the alternator it "should" survive. I would be more worried about the ESR in the battery then I would the cable. At that current level the battery is what will cause your voltage drop. How do you fix it? Add more batteries in parallel which will decrease the ESR.</TD></TR></TABLE>So how do you know I wasn't talking about "AB" amps in the Quote that you posted, also I said "my rule is" not you must or have to, or that 12 volts chart is the law and you must do it that way.
Also that quote has diddly squat to do with what I had to say to the nimrod that was building a system to compete in the STOCK 1-160 WATT CLASS by installing an AFTERMARKET 3000 WATT amp.
And what I get from your post is you could get away with installing a 3000 watt amp and not upgrading the alt. by just installing more batt., my question to you would be, do you also think the stock alt. will "survive" even more batt. and the 3000 watt amp. One more thing do you know anybody with a 3000 watt amp that only plays it "at that level for a few sec." because I sure an hell don't, and even if he had said it was for SPL contests only, [he didn't] I would still have asked him how he was going to do it without burning out the stock alt. 94
These numbers don't work for class D amplifiers. These were made for class AB amplifiers and are conservative, in that they provide more current then what is required.
I would assume when he says he has a 3000 watt amplifier he just intends to play it for a few seonds at that power level for SPL competion. While it wont be good for the alternator it "should" survive. I would be more worried about the ESR in the battery then I would the cable. At that current level the battery is what will cause your voltage drop. How do you fix it? Add more batteries in parallel which will decrease the ESR.</TD></TR></TABLE>So how do you know I wasn't talking about "AB" amps in the Quote that you posted, also I said "my rule is" not you must or have to, or that 12 volts chart is the law and you must do it that way.
Also that quote has diddly squat to do with what I had to say to the nimrod that was building a system to compete in the STOCK 1-160 WATT CLASS by installing an AFTERMARKET 3000 WATT amp.
And what I get from your post is you could get away with installing a 3000 watt amp and not upgrading the alt. by just installing more batt., my question to you would be, do you also think the stock alt. will "survive" even more batt. and the 3000 watt amp. One more thing do you know anybody with a 3000 watt amp that only plays it "at that level for a few sec." because I sure an hell don't, and even if he had said it was for SPL contests only, [he didn't] I would still have asked him how he was going to do it without burning out the stock alt.
94
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From: Beavertown, OR
Re: how much power? (fcm)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So how do you know I wasn't talking about "AB" amps in the Quote that you posted, also I said "my rule is" not you must or have to, or that 12 volts chart is the law and you must do it that way. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Was only pointing out info that others may not know. I wasn't correcting you. Using that chart for an amp that is 80% efficient would be a waste. The charts should be in terms of current not power output of the amplifiers.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And what I get from your post is you could get away with installing a 3000 watt amp and not upgrading the alt. by just installing more batt., my question to you would be, do you also think the stock alt. will "survive" even more batt. and the 3000 watt amp. One more thing do you know anybody with a 3000 watt amp that only plays it "at that level for a few sec." because I sure an hell don't, and even if he had said it was for SPL contests only, [he didn't] I would still have asked him how he was going to do it without burning out the stock alt. 94
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes you can install a 3000 watt amplifier without upgrading the alternator. Your not going to put out 3000 watts all the time. As long as the current draw didn't exceed the available output for extended periods of time your alternator may survive.
He mentioned he "burps" his stereo this sounds to me like a SPL person that does it to reach maximum SPL. Power level can even exceed RMS rating on the speakers for short periods of time. For an SPL system you dont even need the car running to run the stereo. You alternator will survive short burst of high current. Extended high loads is what kills them. They end up producing more heat then they can disapate.
Modified by nsxxtreme at 9:07 PM 8/18/2005
</TD></TR></TABLE>Was only pointing out info that others may not know. I wasn't correcting you. Using that chart for an amp that is 80% efficient would be a waste. The charts should be in terms of current not power output of the amplifiers.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And what I get from your post is you could get away with installing a 3000 watt amp and not upgrading the alt. by just installing more batt., my question to you would be, do you also think the stock alt. will "survive" even more batt. and the 3000 watt amp. One more thing do you know anybody with a 3000 watt amp that only plays it "at that level for a few sec." because I sure an hell don't, and even if he had said it was for SPL contests only, [he didn't] I would still have asked him how he was going to do it without burning out the stock alt.
94</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes you can install a 3000 watt amplifier without upgrading the alternator. Your not going to put out 3000 watts all the time. As long as the current draw didn't exceed the available output for extended periods of time your alternator may survive.
He mentioned he "burps" his stereo this sounds to me like a SPL person that does it to reach maximum SPL. Power level can even exceed RMS rating on the speakers for short periods of time. For an SPL system you dont even need the car running to run the stereo. You alternator will survive short burst of high current. Extended high loads is what kills them. They end up producing more heat then they can disapate.
Modified by nsxxtreme at 9:07 PM 8/18/2005
Old Fart
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From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: how much power? (nsxxtreme)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Was only pointing out info that others may not know. I wasn't correcting you. Using that chart for an amp that is 80% efficient would be a waste. The charts should be in terms of current not power output of the amplifiers.</TD></TR></TABLE> Have you looked at the charts, or the "note" right before them, the one that points out that the figures are rounded off, and current draws are based on the RMS power of the amplifier with a 50% efficiency rating?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes you can install a 3000 watt amplifier without upgrading the alternator. Your not going to put out 3000 watts all the time. As long as the current draw didn't exceed the available output for extended periods of time your alternator may survive. </TD></TR></TABLE> Let me put it this way.
If somebody told you they where installing a 3000 watt system, and wanted to know if they should upgrade the alt., what would you recommend they do?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He mentioned he "burps" his stereo this sounds to me like a SPL person that does it to reach maximum SPL. Power level can even exceed RMS rating on the speakers for short periods of time. For an SPL system you dont even need the car running to run the stereo. You alternator will survive short burst of high current. Extended high loads is what kills them. They end up producing more heat then they can disapate.</TD></TR></TABLE>Sorry, I tend to err on the side of caution when asked about power requirements for sound systems in cars, must have something to do with all the customers I have had that get high watt systems installed and rationalize not upgrading alt. the same way you are, "I never play it that loud" "I'm only going to turn it up at sound offs" "I only burp it every once in a while" "I can get away with it for a while right?" the same ones that end up with dead batt. and/or burnt out alt. because so and so said they didn't need or could get away without upgrading the alt. or told them all you need to do is put in a bunch of batt.
Was only pointing out info that others may not know. I wasn't correcting you. Using that chart for an amp that is 80% efficient would be a waste. The charts should be in terms of current not power output of the amplifiers.</TD></TR></TABLE> Have you looked at the charts, or the "note" right before them, the one that points out that the figures are rounded off, and current draws are based on the RMS power of the amplifier with a 50% efficiency rating?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes you can install a 3000 watt amplifier without upgrading the alternator. Your not going to put out 3000 watts all the time. As long as the current draw didn't exceed the available output for extended periods of time your alternator may survive. </TD></TR></TABLE> Let me put it this way.
If somebody told you they where installing a 3000 watt system, and wanted to know if they should upgrade the alt., what would you recommend they do?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He mentioned he "burps" his stereo this sounds to me like a SPL person that does it to reach maximum SPL. Power level can even exceed RMS rating on the speakers for short periods of time. For an SPL system you dont even need the car running to run the stereo. You alternator will survive short burst of high current. Extended high loads is what kills them. They end up producing more heat then they can disapate.</TD></TR></TABLE>Sorry, I tend to err on the side of caution when asked about power requirements for sound systems in cars, must have something to do with all the customers I have had that get high watt systems installed and rationalize not upgrading alt. the same way you are, "I never play it that loud" "I'm only going to turn it up at sound offs" "I only burp it every once in a while" "I can get away with it for a while right?" the same ones that end up with dead batt. and/or burnt out alt. because so and so said they didn't need or could get away without upgrading the alt. or told them all you need to do is put in a bunch of batt.
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From: Little Falls, NY, US
Re: how much power? (fcm)
Hey man I think you need to chill a little bit. I am competing in SLAP, and the "stock" means stock interior and no walls. You are allowed to run as many amps and as much power as you want as long as you dont exceed the max cone area of 160".
The rules are pretty much the same in IASCA except you can only have one amp per sub, with no restrictions on power. So I will be legal with them too. And yes I am building this system for SPL comps only.
And no I am not so foolish as to think a stock alternator can run a 3000 watt system. It can do it however for two seconds at a time during a spl comp. I don't care how much experiance you have, I have seen with my own eyes my buddys car burp with that much power on a stock alt.
****, in DBdrag you cant even have the car on so how is that going to affect the alt?
SO back to the original question, he can run quite a bit of power on the stock alt. if he is just burping once in a while. NO he cannot run his system for minutes at a time like that.
If you have all this experiance why don't you come in here and share it like a human being and help someone instead of acting like an asshat?
The rules are pretty much the same in IASCA except you can only have one amp per sub, with no restrictions on power. So I will be legal with them too. And yes I am building this system for SPL comps only.
And no I am not so foolish as to think a stock alternator can run a 3000 watt system. It can do it however for two seconds at a time during a spl comp. I don't care how much experiance you have, I have seen with my own eyes my buddys car burp with that much power on a stock alt.
****, in DBdrag you cant even have the car on so how is that going to affect the alt?
SO back to the original question, he can run quite a bit of power on the stock alt. if he is just burping once in a while. NO he cannot run his system for minutes at a time like that.
If you have all this experiance why don't you come in here and share it like a human being and help someone instead of acting like an asshat?
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From: The Wizard Of Oz, State Rd 1505, Section 8
Simple eq. W/V = Amps.......
Now.....me, i have a 15" MTX 9500 powered by the 1501D(1500W) amplifier and a 10 Farad capacitor.
This isn't in my prelude by the way.
So....my objective is to push 14.4v all the time........I have a 90 amp alternator but the system takes up 106.x amps.........
Meaning that I drain my battery ALL THE TIME. I'm buying a 200amp alternator though - it costs $479 though.........
By the way, it hits HARD. **** the JL W7s........so garbage.
Now.....me, i have a 15" MTX 9500 powered by the 1501D(1500W) amplifier and a 10 Farad capacitor.
This isn't in my prelude by the way.
So....my objective is to push 14.4v all the time........I have a 90 amp alternator but the system takes up 106.x amps.........
Meaning that I drain my battery ALL THE TIME. I'm buying a 200amp alternator though - it costs $479 though.........
By the way, it hits HARD. **** the JL W7s........so garbage.
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From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: how much power? (crxhybrid85)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxhybrid85 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey man I think you need to chill a little bit. I am competing in SLAP, and the "stock" means stock interior and no walls. You are allowed to run as many amps and as much power as you want as long as you dont exceed the max cone area of 160".
The rules are pretty much the same in IASCA except you can only have one amp per sub, with no restrictions on power. So I will be legal with them too. And yes I am building this system for SPL comps only.
And no I am not so foolish as to think a stock alternator can run a 3000 watt system. It can do it however for two seconds at a time during a spl comp. I don't care how much experiance you have, I have seen with my own eyes my buddys car burp with that much power on a stock alt.
****, in DBdrag you cant even have the car on so how is that going to affect the alt?
SO back to the original question, he can run quite a bit of power on the stock alt. if he is just burping once in a while. NO he cannot run his system for minutes at a time like that.
If you have all this experiance why don't you come in here and share it like a human being and help someone instead of acting like an asshat?</TD></TR></TABLE>I need to chill? It is obvious to me that you are a noob when it comes to car audio, you posted some poor advice, and when I called you on it , you come back and try and justify it, tell me how I should give advice and call me names.
My turn..... You little ****, unless you are giving advice on what an asshat is, keep it to yourself, it is clear you don't know what you are talking about, all it is doing is misinforming people.
94
The rules are pretty much the same in IASCA except you can only have one amp per sub, with no restrictions on power. So I will be legal with them too. And yes I am building this system for SPL comps only.
And no I am not so foolish as to think a stock alternator can run a 3000 watt system. It can do it however for two seconds at a time during a spl comp. I don't care how much experiance you have, I have seen with my own eyes my buddys car burp with that much power on a stock alt.
****, in DBdrag you cant even have the car on so how is that going to affect the alt?
SO back to the original question, he can run quite a bit of power on the stock alt. if he is just burping once in a while. NO he cannot run his system for minutes at a time like that.
If you have all this experiance why don't you come in here and share it like a human being and help someone instead of acting like an asshat?</TD></TR></TABLE>I need to chill? It is obvious to me that you are a noob when it comes to car audio, you posted some poor advice, and when I called you on it , you come back and try and justify it, tell me how I should give advice and call me names.
My turn..... You little ****, unless you are giving advice on what an asshat is, keep it to yourself, it is clear you don't know what you are talking about, all it is doing is misinforming people.
94
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From: Beavertown, OR
Re: (NaptownKing)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NaptownKing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Simple eq. W/V = Amps.......</TD></TR></TABLE> Your simple equation requires 100% efficiency. And is for DC current only. You want RMS current, voltage, and power.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Have you looked at the charts, or the "note" right before them, the one that points out that the figures are rounded off, and current draws are based on the RMS power of the amplifier with a 50% efficiency rating? </TD></TR></TABLE>
They are more then just rounded off, there is some fudging there also.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Let me put it this way.
If somebody told you they where installing a 3000 watt system, and wanted to know if they should upgrade the alt., what would you recommend they do?</TD></TR></TABLE> Depends on the person that asked. For you I might suggest a trailer and a nuclear reactor.
Few aftermarket alternators could handle a 3000w amp and the full load of the car. Which is how any power system should be designed. For full load, you obviously are going to lose something if it's not designed this way. Cost vs benifit there are tradeoffs some would chose different costs then you. An alternator that could deliver 290+ amps would use more HP then a 90amp alternator. There is no free lunch.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Have you looked at the charts, or the "note" right before them, the one that points out that the figures are rounded off, and current draws are based on the RMS power of the amplifier with a 50% efficiency rating? </TD></TR></TABLE>
They are more then just rounded off, there is some fudging there also.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Let me put it this way.
If somebody told you they where installing a 3000 watt system, and wanted to know if they should upgrade the alt., what would you recommend they do?</TD></TR></TABLE> Depends on the person that asked. For you I might suggest a trailer and a nuclear reactor.
Few aftermarket alternators could handle a 3000w amp and the full load of the car. Which is how any power system should be designed. For full load, you obviously are going to lose something if it's not designed this way. Cost vs benifit there are tradeoffs some would chose different costs then you. An alternator that could deliver 290+ amps would use more HP then a 90amp alternator. There is no free lunch.
Old Fart
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From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: (nsxxtreme)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Depends on the person that asked. For you I might suggest a trailer and a nuclear reactor.
</TD></TR></TABLE>OK, now I think that may just be a little more power then would be needed, but then again if it was a small enough, maybe LMAO
94
</TD></TR></TABLE>OK, now I think that may just be a little more power then would be needed, but then again if it was a small enough, maybe LMAO
94
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 684
Likes: 0
From: Little Falls, NY, US
Re: (fcm)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I need to chill? It is obvious to me that you are a noob when it comes to car audio, you posted some poor advice, and when I called you on it , you come back and try and justify it, tell me how I should give advice and call me names.
My turn..... You little ****, unless you are giving advice on what an asshat is, keep it to yourself, it is clear you don't know what you are talking about, all it is doing is misinforming people. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>
Look man, this doesn't need to get all hostile, but I believe YOU were the one that started the name calling
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also that quote has diddly squat to do with what I had to say to the nimrod that was building a system to compete in the STOCK 1-160 WATT CLASS by installing an AFTERMARKET 3000 WATT amp.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You opened up your mouth and didn't even have your facts straight. I didn't say anything about a 1-160Watt class. If you knew as much as you thought you do youd know that classes go by cone area. That's the part that really set me off.
As far as misinforming people, I don't think so. I will concede that you cannot run that much power consistently on a stock alt. But for burping in a spl comp. it will be fine. Argue if you want, but it's all on the battery. I've seen 6000 watts on a stock alt and the car drove away. And like I already said, in DBdrag (an organization here in the US that does SPL comps) the rules say the car must be off. So how is that affecting the alt? Please tell me. I've read a bunch of your posts in this forum and you seem to know your ****, but that doesn't mean you own the forum, nor does it give you the right to come in and badmouth me because you have a differnce of opinion.
What alt. would you recomend that my friend run? He is in the super street class, pushing two DD 15's with 24000 watts.
My turn..... You little ****, unless you are giving advice on what an asshat is, keep it to yourself, it is clear you don't know what you are talking about, all it is doing is misinforming people. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>
Look man, this doesn't need to get all hostile, but I believe YOU were the one that started the name calling
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also that quote has diddly squat to do with what I had to say to the nimrod that was building a system to compete in the STOCK 1-160 WATT CLASS by installing an AFTERMARKET 3000 WATT amp.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You opened up your mouth and didn't even have your facts straight. I didn't say anything about a 1-160Watt class. If you knew as much as you thought you do youd know that classes go by cone area. That's the part that really set me off.
As far as misinforming people, I don't think so. I will concede that you cannot run that much power consistently on a stock alt. But for burping in a spl comp. it will be fine. Argue if you want, but it's all on the battery. I've seen 6000 watts on a stock alt and the car drove away. And like I already said, in DBdrag (an organization here in the US that does SPL comps) the rules say the car must be off. So how is that affecting the alt? Please tell me. I've read a bunch of your posts in this forum and you seem to know your ****, but that doesn't mean you own the forum, nor does it give you the right to come in and badmouth me because you have a differnce of opinion.
What alt. would you recomend that my friend run? He is in the super street class, pushing two DD 15's with 24000 watts.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 442
Likes: 0
From: herkimer, ny, usa
Re: (crxhybrid85)
a 200 amp alt with an external regulator .... lol ... hey mike ill jump in on this one ... i have a 91 hatch with a d31 optima blue top ... thats 1 battery ... with a stock alt ... thats 14 years old and 210 000 miles on it ... i am the one thats putting 3000 watts to my RE MT ... and yes i do it with my stock alt ... no i dont put 3000 to it daily ... and as a matter of fact i put well over 6200 watts to my sub for a few secs with the stock alt ... when we test we play the sub for about 3 seconds and sometimes we do it 50 times in a row ... all we do is wait for the v's to go back up to 14.1 and BRRRAAAPPP one more time ......
FCM posted
One more thing......Brahahahahahahahahah. How exactly do you connect "possibly 4 0ga (strands)" to a 3000 watt amp
Reminder to myself, add quoted post to dumbest things I have ever heard on H/T list. 94
Its called a dist block dumb **** ... thats how you would use 4 wires with one amp
oh and another thing ... who the **** competes in a comp with stock **** ??? so if he called it a stock 1-160 class does that mean his car is stock??? danm for someone that knows his **** you sure are dumb
another wonderfull quote ...
You little ****, unless you are giving advice on what an asshat is, keep it to yourself, it is clear you don't know what you are talking about, all it is doing is misinforming people. 94
Ummm i hardly call a 230 lb Marine a little **** ...
and the final thing crx hybrid 85 said
I've read a bunch of your posts in this forum and you seem to know your ****,
Ive read one and sorry mike i think your WRONG
FCM posted
One more thing......Brahahahahahahahahah. How exactly do you connect "possibly 4 0ga (strands)" to a 3000 watt amp
Reminder to myself, add quoted post to dumbest things I have ever heard on H/T list. 94
Its called a dist block dumb **** ... thats how you would use 4 wires with one amp
oh and another thing ... who the **** competes in a comp with stock **** ??? so if he called it a stock 1-160 class does that mean his car is stock??? danm for someone that knows his **** you sure are dumb
another wonderfull quote ...
You little ****, unless you are giving advice on what an asshat is, keep it to yourself, it is clear you don't know what you are talking about, all it is doing is misinforming people. 94
Ummm i hardly call a 230 lb Marine a little **** ...
and the final thing crx hybrid 85 said
I've read a bunch of your posts in this forum and you seem to know your ****,
Ive read one and sorry mike i think your WRONG
Old Fart
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,173
Likes: 18
From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: (crxhybrid85)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxhybrid85 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Look man, this doesn't need to get all hostile, but I believe YOU were the one that started the name calling </TD></TR></TABLE>Hows that? All I said was, dumbest things I have heard on h/T, and most of it was, and speaking to someone else, I referred to you as "the nimrod", [Nimrod (nim' rad') [[Heb nimroth]] Bible the son of Cush, referred to as a mighty hunter Gen. 10:8-9, n- a hunter] someone looking, [hunting] for BIG BASS, You could have just come back and explained that you meant for SPL contests, and even though I am a firm believer in upgrading to an alt. that can handle the load that is put on it, I would have agreed with you, that under those conditions, although I would advise against it with that kind of power and 2 batt. you could get away without upgrading the alt. An alt. is not meant to charge a batt. it's meant to keep it charged, and supply power to the car and the loads in it , [when running] a second batt. is just another batt. to keep charged, [another load on the alt.]
You also agree with me that You can't "run" a 3000 watt system......
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxhybrid85 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
SO back to the original question, he can run quite a bit of power on the stock alt. if he is just burping once in a while. NO he cannot run his system for minutes at a time like that.
</TD></TR></TABLE> And as I said , I agree with you on that point, kind of. But as that was not what I understood the question to be. I gave the advice I would give anybody that asked the same thing.
But you had to add....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxhybrid85 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have all this experiance why don't you come in here and share it like a human being and help someone instead of acting like an asshat?</TD></TR></TABLE> Gee, I though the advice I gave him would help, it was good advice, it was only after you posted, [what IMO was poor advice] that I called you on, that things got "hostile", and it sure wasn't till after you called me an asshat, that I said anything derogatory to you.
Now we have your buddy cnycivic trying to explain to me how car audio works, and what can and can not be done
Here is some free advice from an inhuman asshat, it's not the volts, it's the amps, you can draw 14.1V through a 20ga wire, it's current the amp needs and you can't draw the kind of current, [amps] you need through a 20ga wire you need 0ga or even 00ga, depending on amps needed and the length of the cable from power source to load, and any connections in the cable is a point of resistance, so my question to you would be why would you install a "dist. block", [used for splitting power up to multipul loads, and with at least 2 extra connections] between the batt. and one amp, and that still does not explain how you connect 4 0ga power cables to the pos. (+) term. of one amp, or the 4 you would have to connect for the ground now whose the dumb **** So crxhybrid85 is a 230lb Marine, so who are you, his Bitch? 94
Look man, this doesn't need to get all hostile, but I believe YOU were the one that started the name calling </TD></TR></TABLE>Hows that? All I said was, dumbest things I have heard on h/T, and most of it was, and speaking to someone else, I referred to you as "the nimrod", [Nimrod (nim' rad') [[Heb nimroth]] Bible the son of Cush, referred to as a mighty hunter Gen. 10:8-9, n- a hunter] someone looking, [hunting] for BIG BASS, You could have just come back and explained that you meant for SPL contests, and even though I am a firm believer in upgrading to an alt. that can handle the load that is put on it, I would have agreed with you, that under those conditions, although I would advise against it with that kind of power and 2 batt. you could get away without upgrading the alt. An alt. is not meant to charge a batt. it's meant to keep it charged, and supply power to the car and the loads in it , [when running] a second batt. is just another batt. to keep charged, [another load on the alt.]
You also agree with me that You can't "run" a 3000 watt system......
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxhybrid85 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
SO back to the original question, he can run quite a bit of power on the stock alt. if he is just burping once in a while. NO he cannot run his system for minutes at a time like that.
</TD></TR></TABLE> And as I said , I agree with you on that point, kind of. But as that was not what I understood the question to be. I gave the advice I would give anybody that asked the same thing.
But you had to add....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxhybrid85 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have all this experiance why don't you come in here and share it like a human being and help someone instead of acting like an asshat?</TD></TR></TABLE> Gee, I though the advice I gave him would help, it was good advice, it was only after you posted, [what IMO was poor advice] that I called you on, that things got "hostile", and it sure wasn't till after you called me an asshat, that I said anything derogatory to you.
Now we have your buddy cnycivic trying to explain to me how car audio works, and what can and can not be done
Here is some free advice from an inhuman asshat, it's not the volts, it's the amps, you can draw 14.1V through a 20ga wire, it's current the amp needs and you can't draw the kind of current, [amps] you need through a 20ga wire you need 0ga or even 00ga, depending on amps needed and the length of the cable from power source to load, and any connections in the cable is a point of resistance, so my question to you would be why would you install a "dist. block", [used for splitting power up to multipul loads, and with at least 2 extra connections] between the batt. and one amp, and that still does not explain how you connect 4 0ga power cables to the pos. (+) term. of one amp, or the 4 you would have to connect for the ground
now whose the dumb **** So crxhybrid85 is a 230lb Marine, so who are you, his Bitch? 94
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 442
Likes: 0
From: herkimer, ny, usa
Re: (fcm)
well im glad you finally agree that yer an asshat ... as for the wire being run into a dist block ... you dont agree that it will help??? well ill show you some pics from the guys at db drag ... they can only have 1 battery and the car has to be off and they do this
hmmm cant imagine y he would run all those wires ... in street B unless what i said is true, about the dist block... cause the way i read it he didnt say a he was plugging 4 wires into his amp he was talking about running 4 of them to his "system" which can start anywhere he chooses ...
and the last time i checked crx85hybrid IS an athiest fish hater ... so i dont think he likes you calling him a biblical bass fisherman ... so he took that to heart ... and i feel you owe him an appology
i think im the one telling you how it is so whos the bitch ???
sorry for the thread jack ... just had to set this E-thug straight
hmmm cant imagine y he would run all those wires ... in street B unless what i said is true, about the dist block... cause the way i read it he didnt say a he was plugging 4 wires into his amp he was talking about running 4 of them to his "system" which can start anywhere he chooses ...
and the last time i checked crx85hybrid IS an athiest fish hater ... so i dont think he likes you calling him a biblical bass fisherman ... so he took that to heart ... and i feel you owe him an appology
i think im the one telling you how it is so whos the bitch ???
sorry for the thread jack ... just had to set this E-thug straight
Old Fart
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,173
Likes: 18
From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: (cnycivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cnycivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmmm cant imagine y he would run all those wires ... in street B unless what i said is true, about the dist block... cause the way i read it he didnt say a he was plugging 4 wires into his amp he was talking about running 4 of them to his "system" which can start anywhere he chooses ...
</TD></TR></TABLE> Well, let me know where I went so wrong......
He talks about 2 batt. you show pix of a one batt. system, I didn't say there was anything wrong with 2 runs of 0ga between the batt.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxhybrid85 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and possibly four from the back battery to the system to keep from dropping the volts too low.</TD></TR></TABLE> My question was......
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> How exactly do you connect "possibly 4 0ga (strands)" to a 3000 watt amp </TD></TR></TABLE>As he made no mention of anything but the batt. and the "system" a 3000 watt amp, I asked how he was going to make that connection of 4 0ga power wires to the amp,
He has yet to tell me. You opened your pie hole.........
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cnycivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its called a dist block dumb **** ... thats how you would use 4 wires with one amp </TD></TR></TABLE> Yea that explains a lot.
Then when I point out that it doesn't explain how you connect 4 0ga wires to an amp, you come back with the above post of a one batt. system with splitters on the batt., still not explaining how any kind of connection is made to the amp.
Then to top it off, you explain how your buddy is.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cnycivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> an athiest fish hater ... so i dont think he likes you calling him a biblical bass fisherman </TD></TR></TABLE> Exactly what part of......
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> referred to as a mighty hunter Gen. 10:8-9, [n- a hunter] someone looking, [hunting] for BIG BASS, </TD></TR></TABLE> hunting do you not understand, you do know we are talking about very loud sub bass here and not the fish, don't you?
Brahahahahahahahahahahaha! That one cracked me up, fishing, brahahahahaha, stop your killing me.
And you think your telling me, and setting me straight. That's rich. Brahahahahaha even better then the fish story. 94
</TD></TR></TABLE> Well, let me know where I went so wrong......
He talks about 2 batt. you show pix of a one batt. system, I didn't say there was anything wrong with 2 runs of 0ga between the batt.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxhybrid85 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and possibly four from the back battery to the system to keep from dropping the volts too low.</TD></TR></TABLE> My question was......
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> How exactly do you connect "possibly 4 0ga (strands)" to a 3000 watt amp </TD></TR></TABLE>As he made no mention of anything but the batt. and the "system" a 3000 watt amp, I asked how he was going to make that connection of 4 0ga power wires to the amp,
He has yet to tell me. You opened your pie hole.........
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cnycivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its called a dist block dumb **** ... thats how you would use 4 wires with one amp </TD></TR></TABLE> Yea that explains a lot.
Then when I point out that it doesn't explain how you connect 4 0ga wires to an amp, you come back with the above post of a one batt. system with splitters on the batt., still not explaining how any kind of connection is made to the amp.
Then to top it off, you explain how your buddy is.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cnycivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> an athiest fish hater ... so i dont think he likes you calling him a biblical bass fisherman </TD></TR></TABLE> Exactly what part of......
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> referred to as a mighty hunter Gen. 10:8-9, [n- a hunter] someone looking, [hunting] for BIG BASS, </TD></TR></TABLE> hunting do you not understand, you do know we are talking about very loud sub bass here and not the fish, don't you?
Brahahahahahahahahahahaha! That one cracked me up, fishing, brahahahahaha, stop your killing me.
And you think your telling me, and setting me straight. That's rich. Brahahahahaha even better then the fish story.
94
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,652
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, On, Canada
Re: (cnycivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cnycivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>
juts like to make a couple comments on that install....
i didnt think you were supposed to mount batteries on their side and i dont see any rubber gromets where he passes through the floor.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
juts like to make a couple comments on that install....
i didnt think you were supposed to mount batteries on their side and i dont see any rubber gromets where he passes through the floor.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 471
Likes: 0
From: calgary, ab, canada
Re: (EBP_SI)
wow. drama on the a/s/v forum. never thought I'd see the day.
shame on all of you.
ebp_si,
I belive that battery is sealed.
i don't see grommets either. but the pic is from rather far away...
shame on all of you.
ebp_si,
I belive that battery is sealed.
i don't see grommets either. but the pic is from rather far away...
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,143
Likes: 1
From: Beavertown, OR
Re: (EBP_SI)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EBP_SI »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">juts like to make a couple comments on that install....
i didnt think you were supposed to mount batteries on their side and i dont see any rubber gromets where he passes through the floor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Usually SPL cars aren't driven, some are *shrug* depends on the owner. Wether a battery can be mounted on it's side depends on the battery.
As I mentioned before I would recommend multiple batteries for that system. Batteries have an internal resistance when the current is high the resistance can mean a voltage drop. Ex. Battery has a ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance) of .005 ohms. Current draw of 100A. 100A*.005ohms= .5 volt drop just because of the ESR. Doesn't sound like much but look up the ESR of your battery multiple batteries will drop the ESR, resulting in a smaller voltage drop. Also peak current demands can far exceed RMS current.
I Didn't know in SPL competition you could only have one battery. Never been into competition I'm just an EE. Learn something new everyday.
Modified by nsxxtreme at 5:30 PM 8/21/2005
i didnt think you were supposed to mount batteries on their side and i dont see any rubber gromets where he passes through the floor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Usually SPL cars aren't driven, some are *shrug* depends on the owner. Wether a battery can be mounted on it's side depends on the battery.
As I mentioned before I would recommend multiple batteries for that system. Batteries have an internal resistance when the current is high the resistance can mean a voltage drop. Ex. Battery has a ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance) of .005 ohms. Current draw of 100A. 100A*.005ohms= .5 volt drop just because of the ESR. Doesn't sound like much but look up the ESR of your battery
multiple batteries will drop the ESR, resulting in a smaller voltage drop. Also peak current demands can far exceed RMS current.I Didn't know in SPL competition you could only have one battery. Never been into competition I'm just an EE. Learn something new everyday.
Modified by nsxxtreme at 5:30 PM 8/21/2005
