CrazyModGSR

I am doing my big stereo install/reintstall tomorrow. Just wondering what the best method is for crimping ring and spade terminals on 4 and 0 gauge wire? The tool I have only crimps up to 10 gauge. I know shops have a huge tool that costs like $150-$200. Forget that, there has to be a better way, and I'd rather not have to run to a local shop every time I need a ring terminal crimped. I've heard I could use a sledgehammer or a big rock, but there has to be a better way. Any suggestions?
Thanks

rcurley55

they sell impact crimpers that are good up to 0/1 ga - ask me how I know

They should set you back about $10-$20 bucks!

Goatsterrman

They do make specific tools to crimp wire like that, but if you're stuck at the shop.....although not the best way, you can always use the good ol' vise, I've had to use it more than once.

Auex

Vise or vise grips and solder on both. Worst case, hammer and solder.

hcivic99

i used a ajustable plyer tool

nemesismachine

use a flathead screwdriver and a hammer, just hit lightly. works for all my power and ground cables.

Hondaaccordvtec

Get a scrap peice of 2x4, place your ring terminal with wire on top and hit that MF with a BFH - done deal, ring terminal is crimped!

CrazyModGSR

you know where "they" sell these? also, how would i solder such massive size wire? my lil 30 watt soldering iron probably would even do anything to the aught gauge wire

rcurley55

http://www.delcity.net - pn 990015 - $17.95ea

I have it - works like a champ!

hybridzOr

vice grip, big *** hammer...

ScareyH22A

They sell special crimping tools on some Snap On trucks or some MAC Tools trucks but you'll probably spend too much money on it.

Just go buy a Punch (used to make an indent on things before drilling) and place the punch in the middle of the crimping area and slam with a decent sized hammer. We use this at our shop sometimes when we can't find our hammer crimp tool.

red91sit

I used a vicegrips to pinch down one side of the crimper first so it overlapped slightly and then pinched from the side and then from the top it ended up really nice and tight. Then for the soldering I also have a nice little soldering iron which was never designed for power line like wires. I found if you just leave it against the wire for a long time while slowly adding solder actually works It took me a few hours and a ton of solder but my connections for my system are quite solid now and the solder joints make me proud.

Auex

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CrazyModGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my lil 30 watt soldering iron probably would even do anything to the aught gauge wire</TD></TR></TABLE>
Usually I use a small torch to solder wires, generally my blue point soldering iron(butane) without a tip.

fcm

Solder it on, for $30 or $40 you cn get a weller 200/260 watt solder gun, will come in handy again and again, if you solder and crimp, solder 1st then crimp,if you crimp 1st then solder, the solder can't flow and "fill" the ring term, so the conection can still oxidize, I solder only ,no need to crimp, if air can't get in you will never have a problem with the term. 94

Xsi

Just hit it with a hammer then get a portable butane torch to solder it for about 5 bucks.

fcm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Xsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just hit it with a hammer then get a portable butane torch to solder it for about 5 bucks.</TD></TR></TABLE> And $2.50 every time you need a can of butane, and that will be lots if your soldering 4ga ring term. 94

CrazyModGSR

and what about the aught gauge terminal

rcurley55

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CrazyModGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and what about the aught gauge terminal </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm telling ya - order the tool. It's so worth it. The nice thing about it is that it shapes the connection properly so that it won't pull out - it makes a better mechanical connection then you can with something like a vice.

red91sit

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...I solder only ,no need to crimp, if air can't get in you will never have a problem with the term. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't you want to crimp because metal on metal is a better conductor then metal, solder, metal? and it seems like it holds the wire tighter.

CrazyModGSR

i think i forgot to mention... I am in hot import nights in boston this Saturday (the 17th), so I have no time to order any tools or anything else for the install.

Xsi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> And $2.50 every time you need a can of butane, and that will be lots if your soldering 4ga ring term. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

I soldered about 20 4ga ring terminals with mine and I only had to refill the torch twice, there's still heaps left in the can. A can of butane lasts for ages.

fcm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by red91sit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Don't you want to crimp because metal on metal is a better conductor then metal, solder, metal? and it seems like it holds the wire tighter.</TD></TR></TABLE> Solder 50%tin 50% lead, both very good conductors, any time electricity passes from one metal [the wire] to another [the terminal] and air [oxygen] can get to it , it will oxidize [corrode], fill with solder [ a good conductor] air can't get to connection [no oxidizing] , that is why all the connections inside the amp are soldered not crimped.
94