i don't know how stupid of a question this is, but how do i wire my speakers to my amp? do i run wire from the headunit to the amp or from the doors to the amp?

please reply with your smarter-than-me knowledge

 

Bump. please help somebody!!

 

Please don't bump your post up only a few hours after you original posted it. This forum does not move very fast and this is not necessary. Someone will assist you as soon as possible no matter where your post is or what page it's on. Thanks

So you are running pre-amp (RCA) outputs from your stereo to your amp for the input correct? If that is the case you have 3 options:

1)You can run speaker wire from your amp directly to each individual speaker.

2)You can run speaker wire from your amp directly to your rear speakers. Then run your front speaker wires from your amp up into where your head unit is and tap into the stock front speaker wires, utilizing those. This saves you the troubble of running new wires into the doors witch can be a PITA. Remember if you do this the stock speaker wires CANNOT remain connected to the head unit.

3)If you rear rear spears are not easily accessible either, you can use the same method as option 2. The only difference is that you would run all 4 wires up behind your head unit and tap into all four stock speaker wires. Again you have to remember if you do this the stock speaker wires CANNOT remain connected to the head unit.

 

Pretty much Ditto the above.

However some info please..

MM&Y of car?
Make and model of HU?
Make and model of amp?
Make(s) and model(s) of speakers?

As mentioned running speaker wires into the doors can be a "PITA" but depending on the equipment you have, it may be necessary to do so to maintain SQ, [sound quality] or because of amps wattage.

BTW, there are no stupid questions, just stupid answers. 94

 

sorry about the bump

99 prelude
cda-9846
alpine pdx 4.100 amp
type r coaxials (6.5 and 6x9)

 

I would definitely run 16ga speaker wiring from the amp directly to the speakers, the stock speaker wire is not heavy enough to carry 100W RMS, the rears will be easy, the doors will be a pain, but it would be a waste of the money you spent on the good equipment, to use the stock wiring. 94

 

question about the front door speakers: how do i get the wire from the door to the amp? wont it be sticking outsomewehre from the door??

 

Again, as mentioned, it is a PITA, you will run it through the OEM door boot, there are a couple of good write ups W/pix, but I can't find them right now. 94

 

PITA...? what does that mean? sorry for the stupid question. haha

 

PITA=Pain In The *** 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Again, as mentioned, it is a PITA, you will run it through the OEM door boot, </TD></TR></TABLE>

OEM door boot? whats that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akprelude99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

OEM door boot? whats that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Open your door and look for a rubber hose looking piece going between your door and the "body" of the car. That is the door "boot".

 

Here is my suggestion, if you are running the amp in the trunk area, take these steps.

1. Behind your head unit connect, from your factory harness, the front left and rear left wires to the speakers, ie. fl+ to rl+ and fl- to rl-, etc. And the same for the right side
2. connect your rear speakers directly to the amp.
3. connect wires from the amp to the wires that would connect to your rear speakers.
4. make sure that you have inputs connected, power, ground, and remote wires connected to the amp.

sorry if this sounds complicating

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zippo1130 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is my suggestion, if you are running the amp in the trunk area, take these steps.

1. Behind your head unit connect, from your factory harness, the front left and rear left wires to the speakers, ie. fl+ to rl+ and fl- to rl-, etc. And the same for the right side
2. connect your rear speakers directly to the amp.
3. connect wires from the amp to the wires that would connect to your rear speakers.
4. make sure that you have inputs connected, power, ground, and remote wires connected to the amp.

sorry if this sounds complicating</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why do that when he has to run pre-amp wires to the front already? Why not just run 2 speaker wires as well so that he does not have to have a 15ft long 16 gauge speaker wires?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akprelude99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OEM door boot? whats that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think you need to take it to a professional or go with my option 2. It does not seem like you are going to be up to the task of running new door speaker wires.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zippo1130 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

sorry if this sounds complicating</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's cause you made it sound complicated lol.

That is a reallllllly dirty trick that I'd never recommend to anyone. Ever. lol.

Especially if you're running how power stuff like the op is.

 

[/QUOTE]<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Why do that when he has to run pre-amp wires to the front already? Why not just run 2 speaker wires as well so that he does not have to have a 15ft long 16 gauge speaker wires?

I think you need to take it to a professional or go with my option 2. It does not seem like you are going to be up to the task of running new door speaker wires. </TD></TR></TABLE>


i am more of a diy person thats why i'm asking whats what and what to do. thanks tho smarty pants

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Please don't bump your post up only a few hours after you original posted it. This forum does not move very fast and this is not necessary. Someone will assist you as soon as possible no matter where your post is or what page it's on. Thanks

So you are running pre-amp (RCA) outputs from your stereo to your amp for the input correct? If that is the case you have 3 options:

1)You can run speaker wire from your amp directly to each individual speaker.

2)You can run speaker wire from your amp directly to your rear speakers. Then run your front speaker wires from your amp up into where your head unit is and tap into the stock front speaker wires, utilizing those. This saves you the troubble of running new wires into the doors witch can be a PITA. Remember if you do this the stock speaker wires CANNOT remain connected to the head unit.

3)If you rear rear spears are not easily accessible either, you can use the same method as option 2. The only difference is that you would run all 4 wires up behind your head unit and tap into all four stock speaker wires. Again you have to remember if you do this the stock speaker wires CANNOT remain connected to the head unit.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Here is a quickie that I used to do at cc with systems under 50 watts rms. Run the front speaker leads from the amp to the rear speakers leads if the speakers were mounted in the trunk. The jump the wires behind the headunit on the metra harness toghter. rr to fr and rf to fl. and then run the read channel straight to the new rear speakers Bam done deal. Works the same and save speaker wire.

Lets keep this thread clean and not start calling names. White smoke is giving you good advice. Going thru the door boot is not something that a noob should really do unless you are really good or mechacily incline. As you can really screw something up

 

We are dealing with a PDX-4.100 and Type R 6.5" in the doors, the OP really needs to run 16ga into the doors, [or have it done], the OEM speaker wiring "jump" is not really an option, IMO.
I thought I seen a very good DIY write up with pix, [for a Civic I think] but I can no longer find it, I even Googled for 15 min. last night and still could not find anything with pix, 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We are dealing with a PDX-4.100 and Type R 6.5" in the doors, the OP really needs to run 16ga into the doors, [or have it done], the OEM speaker wiring "jump" is not really an option, IMO.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree

This should help as far as reference to what the door boot looks like. Mine has obviously been worked with.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We are dealing with a PDX-4.100 and Type R 6.5" in the doors, the OP really needs to run 16ga into the doors, [or have it done], the OEM speaker wiring "jump" is not really an option, IMO.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would not have it any other way with the rms power going on here. No more then 50rms watts thru factory speaker wires on most cars from this installer. And anything over that needs to have the speaker wire upgraded to the next sutiable size.

 

Alternative to using the OEM door boot.

http://www.team-integra.net/se...=1119

 

hm, i got the rear speakers wired, but not the front speakers yet. would an installation place charge me full price if i did half of the 4 speakers?

 

If the speaker leads are run to the kick panels we charge 1hr labour to get them into the door, [a little under $50 including rubber boots, [if used] and taxes, either through the stock plug or a new boot, [we use rubber boots, not the grommets in the T/I link]. 94