Could my alarm wiring be making my open hatch sensor not function properly? The car is a 99 civic hatch. My "hatch/trunk open" light on my instrument cluster flickers on and off randomly while driving. My alarm also goes off falsely sometimes and my pager says my hatch/hood were opened (my hood pins are hooked up to the "negative instant trunk/hood trigger input" and I'm assuming my hatch is wired to this too). Right now I currently have my hood pin disconnected from the wire...so the only thing that could be setting off my alarm is the hatch.

So is this all due to faulty alarm wiring? I had FCM help me make a complete diagram for my wiring when I did my alarm...so I don't know if maybe the previous install messed something up or if maybe I misunderstood something.

 

Yes. If there is a wire connected to your trunk trigger wire, and that wire is grounded, then your light on your dash will illuminate. If that wire is intermittently grounded, then your light will illuminate intermittently.

 

Well, right now my wire for my hood pin is just loose in the engine bay...So it could be possibly hitting something metal randomly. But that doesn't explain before. Because I took the wire off of the hood pin because of this same problem. I was assuming the hood pin was the problem...(obviously it isn't)

 

 

 

Someone help me out with this problem

 

Obviously the wire is grounding out somewhere. Trace the wires and find the short. Check where you tapped into the stock wiring first and go from there.

 

I'd be guessing a "short" to ground of the trunk/hatch or hood-pin lead, or maybe a problem with the trunk/hatch latch switch.
Did you use a grommet when you ran the hood-pin lead through the firewall into the engine bay?
What I would do is remove the back trim and unplug the latch switch and see if problem goes away, you can also test the switch by turning on the ign. and push down/lift up on the hatch, [without opening it] to see if the hatch warning light in the cluster "flickers".
Also, as mentioned, check your wiring. 94

 

Yeah, I'm pretty sure I used a grommet for going through the firewall. I think I just followed some existing wires. As for the hatch latch switch...I have checked that already. Doesn't seem to be the problem...I've taken apart the interior and sat in the back while i open it and close it/ push on it/ lift on it.
So I guess I will need to go through the wiring as you guys suggested. Just for clarification...when I have my hood pins wired to my "negative instant trunk/hood trigger input" do I need to be using diodes?

 

No, the only thing that will happen is the trunk/hatch light will come on when the hood is opened, however it has no effect on the alarm, both the trunk/hatch switch and the hood pin supply the alarm with a ground to trigger it.
If your trunk/hatch switch was connected to a trigger from a sensor then you would need to add the diode, otherwise the sensors ground out trigger would also try and turn on the trunk/hatch light, and because it is a "low current" ground output, it would be damaged because of the current needed by the light. 94