Hi
Does anybody know how to stop the engine noise from the Sub when the system is on?
Thanks

 

Make sure your RCA cables are isolated from the power / primary wire and any other powered source, especially electric motors- such as for rolling up windows.

 

you may also wish to move the ground wire... Ive heard that if it is grounded next to a high noise or other high disturbance area, or the amplifier is mounted in that location... such as above the muffler... it will affect it..

But yes... definitly separate the remote turn on, and the power cable from the RCAs and any other speaker cable. You could also try getting a higher grade ground wire, just in case the one you have is cheap, not that it is..... just a thought.

 

A bit of an update.
Changed my RCA leads rerouted it, changed both power and ground and cos my bat is in the back put the leads direct to that.

But i'm still get that bad noise

Any more ideas

 

keep the battery as far away as possible, make sure all wires are tight, mount the amp on the side of the trunk compared to the muffler, so its not on top of it... check for loose connections on headunit and amp... like the inlets, not the wires.. um... check speaker level connections at amp and speakers, make sure its tight.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOSED_CRX_VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A bit of an update.
Changed my RCA leads rerouted it, changed both power and ground and cos my bat is in the back put the leads direct to that.

But i'm still get that bad noise

Any more ideas</TD></TR></TABLE>Need some more info, what kind of noise, is it a winey/sireny kind of sound that changes in pitch when you rev the motor a little and gets louder when you turn things on in the car, like lights, rear window defog, or is it a "werring" buzzing kind of sound that increases in speed when you rev the motor, also, do not ground the amp to the batt. 94

 

oh wow I had no idea he grounded to the battery.... geeze.. there are bolts in the trunk, that are supports for the bumper I believe. Look under the trunk carpet and that board.. you will see 2 bolts on either side of the trunk. take one out that is closest to your amp. wirebrush/sand the area the bolt goes into until the paint is off enough that your ground wire can make a good connection. put that bolt down through there and tighten. be on the lookout for rust though, it seems to do that a little, after several months.. a little, but snothing too bad, I tightened it and sanded, no more rust. it is a very solid and good ground point in the trunk

 

Didn't know you shouldn't ground amps on the bat. Why is this (just out of curiousity)
Did it cos the bat was close.

As for the sound it does a bit of werring when the motor is not running but when the motor is running it sort of matches the tone of the motor though the revs and sounds a bit like a hum.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOSED_CRX_VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Didn't know you shouldn't ground amps on the bat. Why is this (just out of curiousity)
Did it cos the bat was close.

As for the sound it does a bit of werring when the motor is not running but when the motor is running it sort of matches the tone of the motor though the revs and sounds a bit like a hum.</TD></TR></TABLE> If you have noise when the motor is not running, you have a problem with the amp. 94

 

yer i might see if i can try a mates amp to see if that stops it.

 

You dont ground an amp to the battery, because it just puts more current (im guessing here but with a little knowledge of electronics) onto the actual battery.. and since it has been changed or not quite equal that may make spikes or something.. or may prevent the negative current from flowing out of the amp as freely as it can. not to mention whether or not the battery is close, it needs to be grounded to the car anyways.

Try to mount it on those bolts.. like this... and then tell us if it works... dont forget to sand the paint away so it has a good contact.

 

if its a pioneer deck.....thats the problem......trust me my pioneer hums like a freight train its ****** junk!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CooBlueDAB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You dont ground an amp to the battery, because it just puts more current (im guessing here but with a little knowledge of electronics) onto the actual battery.. and since it has been changed or not quite equal that may make spikes or something.. or may prevent the negative current from flowing out of the amp as freely as it can. not to mention whether or not the battery is close, it needs to be grounded to the car anyways.

Try to mount it on those bolts.. like this... and then tell us if it works... dont forget to sand the paint away so it has a good contact.

</TD></TR></TABLE>LOL, no to most of that, the reason you don't ground to the batt. is, you always ground as close to the amp as you can, now if the batt. is in the back of the car and grounding to the batt. is closer then any place else then that would work, and yes, the batt. has to have a good ground to the car. The best place to ground an amp is to the floorpan of the car, the ground you show is not the best ground, the ground wire is not making direct contact with the floorpan. 94

 

Um gee... yes it is.. it is friggin on the body of the car, the actual frame. its sanded and everything... the only way I could possibly ground that better is if I soldered or welded it directly to it.