dynamat vs. blue skin
I work as a carpenter in Seattle so I have access a lot of waterproofing membrane (fortaflash, blue skin , Vicore, protectowrap ect.). It is a black sticky membrane with a plastic film on top that you use to wrap around windows, doors and under cap flashing ect.. It comes in 25 or 50 mil and i am sure i can get some with foil instead of a plastic film. I was wondering if that would work something like Dynamat.
David
David
This is true. The only downfall to it is that its adhesive dosent hold up too well in the heat. I did it to my last car and when I went to remove my speakers a year later I removed the door panel to find all of it gunked up @ the bottom of my door panel and it was a HUGE mess. I.E. Tar everywhere, and impossible to clean off! Stick with dynamatt at all cost unless you can find something with a good adhesive.
It is not the same, [does not have the same vibration dampening characteristics as Dynamat, [or other dampening materials] However it will seal a hole as well as Dynamat, it also does have some dampening characteristics, but so does a 2x4
Long before there was Dynamat, [or the like] we used a roofing material, [Biesathain, (spelling)] a vinyl backed tar material W/ a peel off paper that came in 36" wide rolls 25'-100' long, for sealing doors and rear decks, it worked very well for that, however the Dynamat, [and the like] are much better at dampening then any "roofing" material.
94
PS..... It definitely is better then nothing at all.
Long before there was Dynamat, [or the like] we used a roofing material, [Biesathain, (spelling)] a vinyl backed tar material W/ a peel off paper that came in 36" wide rolls 25'-100' long, for sealing doors and rear decks, it worked very well for that, however the Dynamat, [and the like] are much better at dampening then any "roofing" material.
94PS..... It definitely is better then nothing at all.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Madvillian45 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is true. The only downfall to it is that its adhesive dosent hold up too well in the heat. I did it to my last car and when I went to remove my speakers a year later I removed the door panel to find all of it gunked up @ the bottom of my door panel and it was a HUGE mess. I.E. Tar everywhere, and impossible to clean off! Stick with dynamatt at all cost unless you can find something with a good adhesive.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's because you did not put it on right. I see other people on ROE forum with thousands of dollar of equipment use this as an alternative route. People have these on for more then a year and it is still impossible to take off. You gotta make sure to clean and prep the metal real good and apply it and use a heatgun or torch to make it stick better. Make sure all the air bubbles are rolled out also.
That's because you did not put it on right. I see other people on ROE forum with thousands of dollar of equipment use this as an alternative route. People have these on for more then a year and it is still impossible to take off. You gotta make sure to clean and prep the metal real good and apply it and use a heatgun or torch to make it stick better. Make sure all the air bubbles are rolled out also.
Just a question. How do you know how I put it on? FYI I did use a heat gun and cleaned the surface with a light duty rubbing alcohol. The problem was that the dampning material I used had a rely cheep tar substance that never rely cured. Dont jump to conclusions.
One other thing most people probably dont care about when they apply this stuff.
Dents are much easier to get once this stuff is applied. The metal no longer "springs" back, your car becomes very easy to dent.
Just something to think about.
I too have used roofing material in the past and it worked extremely well. Much cheaper then the overpriced dynomat.
Dents are much easier to get once this stuff is applied. The metal no longer "springs" back, your car becomes very easy to dent.
Just something to think about.
I too have used roofing material in the past and it worked extremely well. Much cheaper then the overpriced dynomat.
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yuo wnat to get get butyl based adhesive setup works the best. i use the fatmat and raamat alternatives when building systems just cheaper and works just as good
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18bturbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yuo wnat to get get butyl based adhesive setup works the best. i use the fatmat and raamat alternatives when building systems just cheaper and works just as good </TD></TR></TABLE>
I disagree. I have fatmat in my car and it comes off A LOT easier than real dynamat
I disagree. I have fatmat in my car and it comes off A LOT easier than real dynamat
My take on the sound deadning issue is:You get what you pay for
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Its all about time and money: Some cheaper alternatives take longer to apply or need more layers to be as effective as a popular brand. Just food for thought.
.Its all about time and money: Some cheaper alternatives take longer to apply or need more layers to be as effective as a popular brand. Just food for thought.
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