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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 04:43 PM
  #1  
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Default Dimming lights.

I have alpine pdx 1.1000 amplifier, which is 1000watts RMS, I am running two 12inch, type-r, alpine subs with it. I also have alpine V12 amp for my speakers, this amp has 125 watts for each speaker. I also have 5 farad Alumapro capacitor. I am running 4 gauge wire.

So my problem is that when I really crank the volume up my lights are flashing, and it is just embarrassing.
I need to know how to eliminate my dimming lights’ problem??????????????????????????????????????????? ????????????????????????

p.s.

I have a brand new battery but not Optima, a regular one, and my alternator is stock, the car is 2002 accord coupe V6.
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 04:53 PM
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Do a search on the "big three" and perform upgrades.

4 Gauge wire is too small for what you're running. Upgrade power wire.

Stock alternator is not providing nearly enough power. Using the formula to figure out Amperage draw, you'll very easily see that you're taxing your OEM charging system. At 14V, and your amp producing 1000 watts, that amp alone is pulling over 71 amps. I don't know how many watts the V12 amp is, but I'm sure in total you're over 80 amps just with the audio system. Add that to the 10+ amps drawn by the vehicle's electronics, and subtract that number from the 70 amp stock alternator rating. You're pulling more amps than your alternator can produce, and therefore, things start starving for power, exhibiting symptoms like dimming headlights.

Upgrade your charging system or turn it down.
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 04:54 PM
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Default Re: Dimming lights. (Accord-Guy)

Well...I'll chime in with the little i know. Your stock alternator doesn't seem to be able to produce enough amperage for your set up. Look up "The Big Three" while you're at it and that might help you too.

BTW thanks to the homie Oscar for teaching me some **** every once in a while.
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 04:59 PM
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^^^ Oscar taught you how to post the same thing as the person right before you? :claps for Oscar:

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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 05:02 PM
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Default Re: (B18C_EJ8)

I know that the four gauge is too small and i am planning on replacing it, should I go for 2 gauge or 0??? And would Optima yellow top would do any good, without an alternator upgrade? also the v-12 is 1000Watts RMS, but I figure that the regular speakers aren't taking so much power.
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 05:05 PM
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Did you even read anything that I posted?

YOU NEED TO UPGRADE YOUR ALTERNATOR. I don't care if you get an Optima purple & green striped top, because if you don't install a high-output alternator, it won't do a damn thing.


As far as wire size goes, you could probably get by with 2 gauge from the battery to the power distribution block. http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 05:09 PM
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Default Re: (B18C_EJ8)

So I need like 300amp alternator or so? how about the power wire 2 or 0 gauge?
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 05:13 PM
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I don't think you'll find a 300 amp alternator for your car.... Unless you install two of these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWD1V

I think one will be more than sufficient.

Wire size question is answered above when I edited my reply.
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 05:16 PM
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Default Re: (B18C_EJ8)

I was just thinking now, my capacitor has 4 gauge inputs, so how am i going to squeazzz in 2 gauge wire? Anyways thanks for help.
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 05:28 PM
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Again, as stated above, you run the 2 gauge from the battery to a distribution block. http://cgi.ebay.com/POWER-DIST...wItem
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 05:39 PM
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Default Re: (B18C_EJ8)

Thanks, again. I will start with the alternator
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 05:40 PM
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Start with the Big Three.
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 05:48 PM
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Default Re: (Accord-Guy)

This is what I would do, as long as the power lead is 12' or less in total length use 4ga. for the PDX 1.1000, install the cap as close to the PDX 1.1000 as you can, keep the cap and amp grounds as short as possible and ground both to the same point, seat belt bolts or seat bolts/studs any bolt stud that goes into the cars floor pan.

Solder all terminals, [ring terminals] to power cables.

If you are not already using an ANL type fuse, get one.

Run another power lead from the batt. for the V12 amp, BTW what is the model number?
Also with an ANL fuse.

Beef up the batt. to chassis ground and the chassis to engine ground, use 2ga, and ground both batt. and engine ground to the same point on chassis, shock tower studs work well, leave stock ground in place.

I am no fan of any kind of splitter/distribution blocks as the add many connections and connections are resistance and resistance limits current.

And as mentioned, upgrade your alt., it is the only way to get more current, also as mentioned a batt. will not do anything other then give you longer play time when engine is not running, but a good quality batt. is still a good idea, as it will be taking a lot of abuse. 94
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 05:54 PM
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Default Re: (fcm)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am no fan of any kind of splitter/distribution blocks as the add many connections and connections are resistance and resistance limits current.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Didn't think about that. Good advice above.
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 05:55 PM
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Default Re: (fcm)

I already have an ANL fuse, thanks for more info though.
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 06:00 PM
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Default Re: (B18C_EJ8)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^^ Oscar taught you how to post the same thing as the person right before you? :claps for Oscar:

</TD></TR></TABLE>

BURN! hahhah. typing slow as expletive owns me bro.
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 06:20 PM
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Default Re: (.Manny.)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .Manny. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

BURN! hahhah. typing slow as expletive owns me bro. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's all good, man...
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 06:40 PM
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Default Re: (B18C_EJ8)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's all good, man... </TD></TR></TABLE>

hahah yeah...i plan on taking my own advice soon, I'll finally be putting in something that will make a little bit of noise. I'm doing the big three, but more than likely will not need to upgrade the alternator.

BTW, until recently, I was really just in the EF forum and stayed out of here due to my lack of knowledge on the subjects...but since audio is my new project, I've been hanging around more and have been pleasantly surprised by the honest help and copious amounts of knowledge that yourself, fcm, wrx-killer-Sti-eater, my buddy 94_DC4 and a few others here provide. Much, much appreciated! I hope to get set up soon and share it with you guys.

sorry to semi threadjack my friend
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Old Dec 13, 2007 | 03:19 PM
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Default Re: (.Manny.)

Big 3 is a good idea, but the alternator is the key. I have 3 PDX amps in my hatch, 1 1.1000 and 2 4.150's I ran 0 Guage back to my distribution to 4 gauge to the Amps and went with a 130 amp alternator and no dimming at all. Once this is all done a good battery is a plus. I have a Kinetik in my hatch and a Optima Yellow Top in my liberty
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