I bought a lightly used 2 10" Kicker CVRs w/ box enclosure (800 watts each, 1600w total) as well as an Audiobahn 1600w amp. Not sure what the exact model is, but all for $240. We tested it and it hits hard, but the guy said something about he toned the amp only half way (I'm not sure why), but he says I can tune the amp up to 1600w.. what does he mean by that? Is it recommended? What do you guys recommend?

I will be installing these tomorrow so will these slap hard?? Anyone got these?

Also, do I need any extra wiring gauges? I still got my new ones from a few months ago. Circuit City told me that they'll be replacing it for free since I had my last installation there and I'm just swapping out my subs and amp. Does this mean I can abuse the system everytime I need something installed?

I will put pictures up before installing it probably (or after).

 

The Kicker CVR10s are 400W continuous each, so a total of 800W continuous, [RMS].
I assume he meant "tuned", [adjusted amps gain] to half way.

Need to know the model of the Audiobahn amp and if you have the DVC 2 or 4 ohm CVRs. 94

 

Update: Turns out the guy ripped me off. The 2 10" CVRs were already about to be gone (I didnt notice it when we were testing) and the Circuit City Roadshop guy told me I had to replace both of them. One of them wasn't working and the other you can hear the plastic rattling. But it wasn't like that when the guy I bought it from tested it and it sounded good. They took out both of them and I bought a 10" Kicker COMP (4 ohm) and now I'm nearly broke. The COMP sounds the same as my old sub.. but is there anything louder?? Should I just get another pair of CVR's at Circuit City brand new? I'm thinking of exchanging the COMP to the CVR and pay off whatever on top.

But at least the CC Roadshop guy told me the box and Audiobahn amp is good.

Is there any way I can get the CVR's repaired? What am I suppose to do with these?

I dont know.. I'm just blank and confused right now. Do you think the guy I bought it from blasted it too loud?

 

Audiobahn equipment is crap. Keep the subs you just bought, sell the Audiobahn amp and buy a better amp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EvenStar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
But at least the CC Roadshop guy told me the box and Audiobahn amp is good.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

there is nothing good about an audiobahn amp.

as far as your subwoofer situation, check online for a new setup to save a little bank. like 94_DC4 said, sell the audiobahn to some highschooler that dosen't know any better and buy something better. i'm guessing the kicker comp you just bought has dual 4 ohm voice coils, i dont know the rms power for the sub but look for an amp that is 2 ohm stable at your desired power range.

 

Well that blows, can you not get your money back?

I have to agree, Audiobhan is at the bottom as far as amps go, however if your stuck with it and it is working OK, it should be fine to drive a set of subs, still need the model number of the amp.
Also need to know what Kicker "COMP" subs you got VX, VT, VR, VR D Series, D Series or just straight Comp?

So I guess you do not need an answer to your original question "Re: Did I make a wise selection? (94_DC4)"

Stick with authorized dealers of any product you buy, and buy new product, it may cost more but in the long run your way better off. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well that blows, can you not get your money back?

I have to agree, Audiobhan is at the bottom as far as amps go, however if your stuck with it and it is working OK, it should be fine to drive a set of subs, still need the model number of the amp.
Also need to know what Kicker "COMP" subs you got VX, VT, VR, VR D Series, D Series or just straight Comp?

So I guess you do not need an answer to your original question "Re: Did I make a wise selection? (94_DC4)"

Stick with authorized dealers of any product you buy, and buy new product, it may cost more but in the long run your way better off. 94 </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well he finally called me back and says he'll refund only a $100 back out of the rest and I'll give him the 2 broken subs (I learned my lesson). But I'll get whatever I can take back today. Right now I'm planning to exchange the 10" Kicker COMP (says C10 on the box) 4ohm with the 10" Kicker CVR 4ohm and I'll pay whatever is left on top (I think $50+). I'll also be getting another brand new 10" Kicker CVR 4ohm (around $140) to fill up the second hole on the enclosure.

fcm; I'll check the amp model today before I head to work and let you know by tonight or something. But what amp do you recommend to power these 2 brand new 10" Kicker CVR 4ohm? I'm looking to get the best sound out of these. And also, I will still be getting the free installation for my subs at Circuit City.

 

As I mentioned your subs are 400W continuous each, at total of 800W, so I would look for an amp that makes 800 - 1000 watts RMS into 4 ohms.
When you have the subs installed have them wire the DVC 4 ohms in series, [for an 8 ohm load] then wire the subs in parallel to bring the load back down to 4 ohms.
Now would be a good time to "beef up" the sub box, [if not already done], glue bracing, [small blocks of wood] along all the seams, [5" or so apart] seal the MDF, paint inside of box with wood sealer, [I use fiberglass resin] then run a bead of silicone along all the seams.

800+ watts is a lot, and "beefing up" the sub box will improve sub bass SQ. 93

 

hmm should i be concerned about the battery? i want to take care of these subs (and not blow), so i dont push them all the way.

and can this 800w power be heard from at least a block away?

could've sworn i got at least 1600w out of the 2 10" kicker cvrs.. but i think thats the peak level?

 

No you should not worry about the batt., unless you plan on playing the system for long periods of time without the car running, or if you plan on listening to the system cranked at all times, then you will run into batt. and alt. problems.

LOL, why would you care if you can hear it a block away, do you plan on listening to your system form a block away?
100W of sub bass could be heard from a block away.

Yes the subs are 400/800 watts, continuous/peak, or a total of 1600W peak, but peak or max power really means nothing other then the speaker will handle a short "burp" of up to 800 watts, however an amp that is 400W RMS and is capable of 800W peak power at 800W the distortion level is very high, and it is the distortion/clipping of the amp that does the damage to the speaker.

That is why I always recommend "overpowering" the speakers, you are less likely to drive a 1000W RMS amp into clipping on your subs then you would say a 500W RMS amp, the 1000W amp will give you more clean "dynamic headroom", [power over the 800W that the subs are rated for continuously].
Besides distortion and heat to the speaker, [output when clipping is AC] a clipping amp will also run a lot hotter then intended, and will shorten the life of the amp as well as the speakers.

If you want to "take care of the subs" start by making sure they are in a proper sized box, the CVR10 will work in an air space from .8cuft to 3cuft, in your case 1.6 -6 cuft, the bigger the box the less power handling, I would be looking at no more then 1.75cuft, and a 50% fill of polyester, if volume is more then 1.75cuft, use bracing to "use up volume", kind of kill two birds with one stone, [or a bunch of small wood/MDF blocks], and sealing the box is very important, it can make a huge diff. in SQ., a sealed box needs to be airtight, then comes wiring and a proper amp to drive the subs.
Last but not least, brake the subs in, jst like a brand now motor, start easy for the first 500km then gradually push them harder and harder, never turn the system off if you have been playing it loud, like a turbo the subs need to cool down slowly, so the last couple of min. before you get where you are going, turn down the volume to a reasonable level, [so you can have a conversation without raising your voice], also no point in advertising to everyone around where you are going to park that you have a "big" system. 94

 

Sweet, thanks!

Btw, I did turn the subs down before driving to my house... didn't want to attract attention for thieves too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have to agree, Audiobhan is at the bottom as far as amps go. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Why?
I have repaired a few of these amps and the components used are the same as components in much higher priced amps. Build quality was even better. I would put it in the same class as kicker IMO.

I dont have much experience with these amps though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Why?
I have repaired a few of these amps and the components used are the same as components in much higher priced amps. Build quality was even better. I would put it in the same class as kicker IMO.

I dont have much experience with these amps though.


</TD></TR></TABLE> Your entitled to your opinion, and I did say it would be fine to drive the subs. [if it was working, and dependent on it's RMS output].
I also do not have a lot of experience with Audiobahn amps, but the ones I have installed and/or heard are about as crappy sounding as they get, IMO Kicker amps are a lot better sounding, [apples to apples/oranges to oranges].

They do know how to make them big though... http://ampguts.realmofexcursio...1.jpg
Not sure what all the extra space is for though... http://ampguts.realmofexcursio...2.jpg 94