Custom system
its like this, I tried so many times to stay away from having a heavy duty system, but everytime I sell my setup I ended up wanting it back after 3 months.
I would like to design a nice setup that uses my spare tire well, one 12" sub, and one mono block amp. it must be neat plus sound heavy, without being heavy, and removable.
the big question is which affordable 12" sub can be mounted anywhere with a specifically designed encloser, and still sound heavy. for example I can just leave it on the ground and it still sound great.
let me know, plus any idea of designs like this so I can have somewhere to start.
I would like to design a nice setup that uses my spare tire well, one 12" sub, and one mono block amp. it must be neat plus sound heavy, without being heavy, and removable.
the big question is which affordable 12" sub can be mounted anywhere with a specifically designed encloser, and still sound heavy. for example I can just leave it on the ground and it still sound great.
let me know, plus any idea of designs like this so I can have somewhere to start.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudebwoy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its like this, I tried so many times to stay away from having a heavy duty system, but everytime I sell my setup I ended up wanting it back after 3 months.
I would like to design a nice setup that uses my spare tire well, one 12" sub, and one mono block amp. it must be neat plus sound heavy, without being heavy, and removable.
the big question is which affordable 12" sub can be mounted anywhere with a specifically designed encloser, and still sound heavy. for example I can just leave it on the ground and it still sound great.
let me know, plus any idea of designs like this so I can have somewhere to start.</TD></TR></TABLE>
car subwoofers are designed to play in your car so the sub itself can pressurize the air within the car making you smile. take the car out of the equation... and you will frown with the subs performance. the sub will be attempting to pressurize the entire earth's atmosphere...which will never happen.
so i would say to try to concentrate on YOUR ears instead of everyone else's.
you should be able to use just about any 12 incher for your purposes...but to be able for it to handle some decent power and bump pretty good...either the magnet will have to be of a decent size (which can get pretty heavy) or get a sub with a neodymium magnet structure (which can get expensive).
I would like to design a nice setup that uses my spare tire well, one 12" sub, and one mono block amp. it must be neat plus sound heavy, without being heavy, and removable.
the big question is which affordable 12" sub can be mounted anywhere with a specifically designed encloser, and still sound heavy. for example I can just leave it on the ground and it still sound great.
let me know, plus any idea of designs like this so I can have somewhere to start.</TD></TR></TABLE>
car subwoofers are designed to play in your car so the sub itself can pressurize the air within the car making you smile. take the car out of the equation... and you will frown with the subs performance. the sub will be attempting to pressurize the entire earth's atmosphere...which will never happen.
so i would say to try to concentrate on YOUR ears instead of everyone else's.
you should be able to use just about any 12 incher for your purposes...but to be able for it to handle some decent power and bump pretty good...either the magnet will have to be of a decent size (which can get pretty heavy) or get a sub with a neodymium magnet structure (which can get expensive).
use a shollow mount sub...they sound pretty good, we have some in my family's boat that i installed...look for the xmax and what the other guy said with the magnet, he is right, but you have to either increase the size of the magnet to control huge excursions, or increase the number of subs...but its still possible to get a GOOD sounding system...when i get older now its what im finding out i like more and more...and hip hop is just getting to old...
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I ordered a Audiobahn high excursion 12" AW1200V 1400W at 800W rms. with a and a Hifonics nemesis 750w class D mono 1 ohm stable amp. I think this should be enough, since I am not into any sound competition, just the love for a nice clean, deep bass system. I plan on getting all audiobahn component speakers also.
what size capacitor would ya'll recomend for this amp?
what size capacitor would ya'll recomend for this amp?
with the set u juss order'd .....
theres really no need for a cap. IMO cap's are a waste of money. putt ur money into a battery. Optima red or yellow top. u wont regrete.
theres really no need for a cap. IMO cap's are a waste of money. putt ur money into a battery. Optima red or yellow top. u wont regrete.
I used to have a optima red I replaced it 3 times, because once they go dead they are dead, can't recharge atleast thats my experience with them.
on the other hand my stock honda battery haven't failed me.
I can get hifonics 1 farad for 37euros here.
Modified by rudebwoy at 10:12 PM 6/9/2007
on the other hand my stock honda battery haven't failed me.
I can get hifonics 1 farad for 37euros here.
Modified by rudebwoy at 10:12 PM 6/9/2007
do yourself a favor, cancel the audiobahn order, and dont buy any of their products there are quality products you can order at the same price.
Look at a Kicker Comp VT
to the guy that said dont buy a cap, buy a battery instead...
Caps keep voltage fluctuations to a minimum, which maximizes the amps efficiency(read keeps the amps output as high as possible), a battery will only allow you to run the stereo with the engine off for longer. your statement is backwards.
Buy the 1 farad cap they are always effective and at that price you cant go wrong.
Look at a Kicker Comp VT
to the guy that said dont buy a cap, buy a battery instead...
Caps keep voltage fluctuations to a minimum, which maximizes the amps efficiency(read keeps the amps output as high as possible), a battery will only allow you to run the stereo with the engine off for longer. your statement is backwards.
Buy the 1 farad cap they are always effective and at that price you cant go wrong.
from what I've seen and heard audibahn is one of the best sub you can buy for the price, I've used 2 of the lowest wattage audibahn 10" subs 300w rms , and they were very nice, I loved them
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudebwoy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">from what I've seen and heard audibahn is one of the best sub you can buy for the price,</TD></TR></TABLE>
Rrrrriiiiigggghhhhttt....
Rrrrriiiiigggghhhhttt....
JL Audio WL7 is where its at, but cost too much for the money I want to spend. I looked at MA audio they did not compare to audiobahn, I looked at Alphasonic also.
http://edesignaudio.com/edv2/e...d=102
look at that sub move. Pretty good excursion if you ask me. Now, I don't have a direct comparison to the JL but I'm pretty sure that you are getting a heckuva value on this sub. Product spec: http://www.edesignaudio.com/ed...d=554
FCM, how do the Punch P3 rate compared to the JL WL7?
look at that sub move. Pretty good excursion if you ask me. Now, I don't have a direct comparison to the JL but I'm pretty sure that you are getting a heckuva value on this sub. Product spec: http://www.edesignaudio.com/ed...d=554
FCM, how do the Punch P3 rate compared to the JL WL7?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can do much better then Audiobahn for the same price, it really is nothing but bling, and not a very good product.
94</TD></TR></TABLE>
I second this.
kicker comp VRs are on sale at autorized dealers right now 2 for $130 for 10"s or 2 for $150 for 12"s much better product
94</TD></TR></TABLE>I second this.
kicker comp VRs are on sale at autorized dealers right now 2 for $130 for 10"s or 2 for $150 for 12"s much better product
I would pick the JLs over the RF punch every time.
I have only installed a few sets of EDs but was impressed with there output and the SQ I was able to get out of them.
94
I have only installed a few sets of EDs but was impressed with there output and the SQ I was able to get out of them.
94
that does look like a good sub but it cost 4 times the price of a audiobahn, price is very important in this selection, I know a lot of people love to say you get what you pay for, but I think audiobahn is the best for its price. $125 for a 12" sub that putout 800wrms and 1400 max. they cost $80 on ebay
there are a lot better subs out there, but 4 people who know a lot about about stereos and they say audibahn for the price to quality.
there are a lot better subs out there, but 4 people who know a lot about about stereos and they say audibahn for the price to quality.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudebwoy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know a lot of people love to say you get what you pay for, but I think audiobahn is the best for its price. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Then I guess it's pointless for any of us to waste our time replying further to this thread, since it's apparent that you're hell bent on settling for mediocrity.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudebwoy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$125 for a 12" sub that putout 800wrms and 1400 max. they cost $80 on ebay</TD></TR></TABLE>
By the way, subs don't "put out" watts... The value assigned in front of the "RMS" and "Max" are power handling capability, not what they "put out".
Then I guess it's pointless for any of us to waste our time replying further to this thread, since it's apparent that you're hell bent on settling for mediocrity.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudebwoy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$125 for a 12" sub that putout 800wrms and 1400 max. they cost $80 on ebay</TD></TR></TABLE>
By the way, subs don't "put out" watts... The value assigned in front of the "RMS" and "Max" are power handling capability, not what they "put out".
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Then I guess it's pointless for any of us to waste our time replying further to this thread, since it's apparent that you're hell bent on settling for mediocrity.
By the way, subs don't "put out" watts... The value assigned in front of the "RMS" and "Max" are power handling capability, not what they "put out".
</TD></TR></TABLE>
did you noticed in all my post that I posted the wattage handling and the RMS wattage also?
the point is I am not trying to spend $300 plus for a sub. and that was the main reason for this post, I keep getting told different, so if someone post something better in that price range, I will take advise.
Then I guess it's pointless for any of us to waste our time replying further to this thread, since it's apparent that you're hell bent on settling for mediocrity.

By the way, subs don't "put out" watts... The value assigned in front of the "RMS" and "Max" are power handling capability, not what they "put out".
</TD></TR></TABLE>did you noticed in all my post that I posted the wattage handling and the RMS wattage also?
the point is I am not trying to spend $300 plus for a sub. and that was the main reason for this post, I keep getting told different, so if someone post something better in that price range, I will take advise.
Just my .02, I absolutely love audiobahn and swear by them. Now this goes for subwoofers only. I have no experienced an amplifier yet but their head units do SUCK horribly, my girlfriend bought one for her car and it's just the biggest POS ever. But my 1200 Q 12'' subs are the best subs I've ever owned. Now I have a cliff designs 1,500 watt amp and I can't say I went wrong with that, best amp I ever bought for less than 300 bucks.
dude honestly I have over 10 years of experience in car audio and I have to say that audiobahn has one of the worst car audio lines out. (aside from jensen and dual)
people who have brought audiobahn stuff in for us to install and all of the above have been true of each item:
1. thier amps dont have as much RMS power as they claim
2. when powered by another brand of amp (with adequate power) their subs dont handle the power that they claim
3. thier stuff never sounds at least mediocre
what Im saying is that it is bottom of the barrel
they look flashy, thats it, nothing more.
How is $80 4 times $150?
I said kicker comp VR subs are $130 for a pair of 10" and $150 for a pair of 12"s
I would be willing to bet that the comp VRs will beat the audiobahns in every category except bling.
if you are not going to listen to ppl in this forum then dont ask a question, you seem to have your mind made up so why are you asking. Take a minute to look at the other threads in this forum and see the ppl that took the time to respond to your thread and say that audiobahn was bad product. You will notice that the ppl that told you this are the most knowledgeable in car audio.
there is a lot of junk in the car audio world that survives because people dont take the time to learn enough about car audio, but a good rule of thumb is if the amp or subs you are looking at have max or peak power printed on them, then they are not worth buying, and audiobahn falls into this category in most occasions.
people who have brought audiobahn stuff in for us to install and all of the above have been true of each item:
1. thier amps dont have as much RMS power as they claim
2. when powered by another brand of amp (with adequate power) their subs dont handle the power that they claim
3. thier stuff never sounds at least mediocre
what Im saying is that it is bottom of the barrel
they look flashy, thats it, nothing more.
How is $80 4 times $150?
I said kicker comp VR subs are $130 for a pair of 10" and $150 for a pair of 12"s
I would be willing to bet that the comp VRs will beat the audiobahns in every category except bling.
if you are not going to listen to ppl in this forum then dont ask a question, you seem to have your mind made up so why are you asking. Take a minute to look at the other threads in this forum and see the ppl that took the time to respond to your thread and say that audiobahn was bad product. You will notice that the ppl that told you this are the most knowledgeable in car audio.
there is a lot of junk in the car audio world that survives because people dont take the time to learn enough about car audio, but a good rule of thumb is if the amp or subs you are looking at have max or peak power printed on them, then they are not worth buying, and audiobahn falls into this category in most occasions.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudebwoy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">JL Audio WL7 is where its at, but cost too much for the money I want to spend. I looked at MA audio they did not compare to audiobahn, I looked at Alphasonic also.</TD></TR></TABLE>
got news for you, audiobahn, MA audio, alphasonic; its all chinese built crap.
got news for you, audiobahn, MA audio, alphasonic; its all chinese built crap.




