Computer sub in car
I've asked the same question before thinking it can be a possible money saver. I have an old but awesome computer subwoofer that was part of a 2.1 piece set. It's not possible to hookup a computer sub to a car radio and make it sound good. Computer subwoofers are only made for whatever set it comes with. Each computer sub is built to have a frequency to match all the speakers to make it sound good. If you hooked up a sub from a 2 piece set to a 5.1 surround sound speaker set it would sound all out of wack.
I've asked the same question before thinking it can be a possible money saver. I have an old but awesome computer subwoofer that was part of a 2.1 piece set. It's not possible to hookup a computer sub to a car radio and make it sound good. Computer subwoofers are only made for whatever set it comes with. Each computer sub is built to have a frequency to match all the speakers to make it sound good. If you hooked up a sub from a 2 piece set to a 5.1 surround sound speaker set it would sound all out of wack. 

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I bought a Sound Ordnance B-8PT and it hits hard for an amplified 8". I got it on sale at crutchfield for 129.
Being that I'm in the process of putting something similar together...I can't guarantee what you'll have to do but with a basic electronics repair background I can help you get started.
Home audio, or computer audio, the enclosure is half of the reason a speaker sounds like it does. The enclosure is researched and designed to the highest degree to tune that speaker to sound its best at the right frequency. This does not mean you can't take the speaker out and build your own enclosure. You do however have to take the original measurements, angles, and design into consideration when buiding your own enclosure. so if the box that your computer sub is housed in measures out to say 1.2 cubic foot with a baffle somewhere, you need to build something that is meticulously 1.2 cubic foot with the same channeling and baffling as the orginal. you can build off of that to fit it where you want in the car and what not, or attach an amp rack to it so it gives you a mounting point to fit in the car but the speaker needs to be housed in 1.2 cubic foot of air space.
2nd of all home audio will have an impedance (resistance) of 8 ohms. Car audio is based off of 4 ohms. Therefor the wiring of this said speaker will be different then a typical car audio speaker. As far as wattage is concerned I have been told that you should find a power source that provides twice the power handling of the speaker at 4 ohms. So if your computer sub can handle 50w rms at 8 ohms you want its powersource (amp) to provide 100w @ 4ohm. Then you wire your terminals in the correct configuration to keep a 4 ohm load on that channel.
It's actually quite simple if you understand how power travels through the system to which I refer you to the12volt.com to brush up on.
If you go through with this setup please post up pictures and if you can a quick diagram of how to wired everything up. (you can do this in MSpaint)
I'm currently stripping my home theater surround sound speakers to incorporate them into my coupe. Enclosure design is the hard part. Good luck.
Home audio, or computer audio, the enclosure is half of the reason a speaker sounds like it does. The enclosure is researched and designed to the highest degree to tune that speaker to sound its best at the right frequency. This does not mean you can't take the speaker out and build your own enclosure. You do however have to take the original measurements, angles, and design into consideration when buiding your own enclosure. so if the box that your computer sub is housed in measures out to say 1.2 cubic foot with a baffle somewhere, you need to build something that is meticulously 1.2 cubic foot with the same channeling and baffling as the orginal. you can build off of that to fit it where you want in the car and what not, or attach an amp rack to it so it gives you a mounting point to fit in the car but the speaker needs to be housed in 1.2 cubic foot of air space.
2nd of all home audio will have an impedance (resistance) of 8 ohms. Car audio is based off of 4 ohms. Therefor the wiring of this said speaker will be different then a typical car audio speaker. As far as wattage is concerned I have been told that you should find a power source that provides twice the power handling of the speaker at 4 ohms. So if your computer sub can handle 50w rms at 8 ohms you want its powersource (amp) to provide 100w @ 4ohm. Then you wire your terminals in the correct configuration to keep a 4 ohm load on that channel.
It's actually quite simple if you understand how power travels through the system to which I refer you to the12volt.com to brush up on.
If you go through with this setup please post up pictures and if you can a quick diagram of how to wired everything up. (you can do this in MSpaint)
I'm currently stripping my home theater surround sound speakers to incorporate them into my coupe. Enclosure design is the hard part. Good luck.
That's the best way to "jerry rig" what your trying to do. Don't expect it to sound like it does in your house. A car is a much noisier environment with different acoustics. It will more then likely sound like poop.
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