I am installing a CompuStar 2W900FM-AS into my 2000 GSR and I had a couple of questions before I pass the point of no return

My questions are about the auxiliary plugs on the under dash fuse panel.

I read this awesome thread - https://honda-tech.com/forums/audio-security-video-27/%5Bhow-%5D-car-security-1794938/

But the fuse panel for my 2000 Integra looks like the one for the EK (not the one listed for the 94+ Integra).



I spliced CN1/1 (+12V const) and CN1/3 (+12V const, 2nd IGN) together and soldered them to the grey wire from my DEI 520T battery backup. I connected the red power wire from the 520T to the aux connector at the farthest left.

If I read the Helms manual correctly, the aux plugs go (from left to right) +12V, dash lights, ACC, IGN2. Can I connect the blue wire from my 2nd IG relay to the IGN2 plug?

For the green/white 'parking light' wire from my alarm (CN1/2) do I just solder a brown plug to that wire and connect it to the 'dash lights' aux connector?

 

Stop what your doing now.

You can not connect the Compustars high current power leads to the DEI back-up batt., the BB circuit can not handle the load.

CN1/1 and 3, [red and red/white] must be connected to a high current source, white lead at the ign. harness or to the batt.
The DEI back-up batt. can not be used with the Compustar without mods, [relays needed].

The 12V+ constant free pin on under dash fuse box can not be used to power the Compustar, you can use the park light free pin for light flash.

A 2000 Integra does not need/have a 2nd ign., that relay can be removed from the Compustar harness.

As mentioned, the CN1/2 [green/white] can be plugged into the park light free pin, [dash lights aux connector]. 94

 

Thanks for the help, good thing I didn't plug in any fuses yet

Can I remove the complete red/white wire at CN1/3 when I remove the relay connected to it?

 

This is what confused me about the 2nd ignition wiring:

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...etail/184.html

It says that the white/black wire is ignition 2.

Were you able to test the relay wiring mentioned in this post?

 

12Volt.com is not working right now, even though the car has a 2nd ign. lead it may not be needed for remote start...
http://64.85.6.121/diagrams/printpag...12661&MakeID=6

I was not able to test relay setup, it was a suggestion for the OP of that tread to try, not sure if he tried it or if it worked, it should work, the BB has enough current to run the alarm and the relay, just not the remote start portion of the Compustar.94

 

Thank you for the response. I guess I could use a backup siren with a built-in battery instead of the 520T.

Can I completely remove the red/white wire at CN1/3 from the alarm or does it still have to be connected to constant 12V?

I don't actually plan on ever remote starting the vehicle, I am using this alarm because I had it laying around and I wanted the turbo timer function. Obviously I want to make sure it is hooked up correctly though, I don't need any fires down the road.

 

I guess I should buy one of the newer CompuStar AS combos like the 2WSS-PRO. The CM5000 module is compatible with a backup battery, it has a dedicated connector at CN2 for the battery.

 

If you can afford it, replace it with a "pro" unit, probably a lot cheaper to use a BBS, [back-up batt. siren] as the alarms "main" siren, [key switch must be accessible] install Compustar siren in stealth mode, [not accessible].

Only the red/white, [or red, can't remember] that runs to "5th" relay, [you will not need the relay or the wiring running to it] can be removed, you will need to connect the red/white to a 12V+ constant, CN1/1 and 3, [red and red/white] must go to "high current" 12V+ constant. 94

 

Good point about how to use the sirens, thanks, I hadn't thought of doing it that way. I have a battery backup siren although it is a no-name one.

I got the alarm portion working today but I had removed the red/white wire at CN1/3 along with the second relay. I guess I will wire that back up tomorrow lol.

I was just working on the keyless entry. It sure is easier when you have a table with all the wire colours and locations like you gave me No fumbling around, I just tapped into the 2 wires at the relay in the kick panel and voila!