91 hatch........front speakers only.........a deck with 4 outputs.........can i run all 4 outputs into the speakers (bridged is the term i believe) to take advantage of the extra power? sorry if this is a really dumb question but i'd like to take full advantage of that power if possible.
thanks!

 

only if you are using an amp. hu's can't be bridged

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acuradriva &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">only if you are using an amp. hu's can't be bridged</TD></TR></TABLE>

correction.. not *ALL* head units can be bridged. Some Pioneer's can on the rear channels, even as gay as that sounds, to run a "sub"

 

just buy an amp, those few watts won't really change much IMO

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acuradriva &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">only if you are using an amp. hu's can't be bridged</TD></TR></TABLE>

maybe bridged is the wrong term. basically i am talking about hooking 2 outputs into one speaker. at 50watts per output (max) you would think i could double up on the power for each speaker. does that make sense?

 

bridging is using more than 1 power source to drive a load. which is what you want to do and you can't do it unless you have one of those units some else mentioned. but i highly doubt you do.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hugh_jazz_sponer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

maybe bridged is the wrong term. basically i am talking about hooking 2 outputs into one speaker. at 50watts per output (max) you would think i could double up on the power for each speaker. does that make sense?</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's called bridging

 

that doesnt sound like bridging.

bridging is taking one negative from one output and one positive from another output and connecting them according to the polarity of the speaker; using them to create a single channel.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hugh_jazz_sponer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
maybe bridged is the wrong term. basically i am talking about hooking 2 outputs into one speaker. at 50watts per output (max) you would think i could double up on the power for each speaker. does that make sense?

</TD></TR></TABLE>
that sounds like taking negatives from each output and positives from each output and connecting them to the speaker.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ATF Kuk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that doesnt sound like bridging.

bridging is taking one negative from one output and one positive from another output and connecting them according to the polarity of the speaker; using them to create a single channel.


that sounds like taking negatives from each output and positives from each output and connecting them to the speaker.</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly. each speaker would have 2 negatives and 2 positives hooked up to it. my brother seems to think it would work.

 

that should work, but there will be no power advantage.

Don't bother. Just use the fronts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nOOber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that should work, but there will be no power advantage.

Don't bother. Just use the fronts. </TD></TR></TABLE>

so using the power from both.............lets just say 30 watts per output x2 outputs per speaker doesn't equal 60 watts of power per speaker?

 

Music is recorded in stereo. So some sounds are only sent to the right side and some are only sent to the left side. And some sounds are sent to the front and some are sent to the rear....and so on with rear right and rear left. So if you do this your sound from your speaker will be distorted and not near quality as it should.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scrolanky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Music is recorded in stereo. So some sounds are only sent to the right side and some are only sent to the left side. And some sounds are sent to the front and some are sent to the rear....and so on with rear right and rear left. So if you do this your sound from your speaker will be distorted and not near quality as it should.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok cool. that makes sense. thanks for clearing it up.

 

Ohm's Law says no. ( 30 X 2 from a few posts up)


to 'double' the power you have to bridge the amp, and the way you want to do it is not bridging.


wanna see double the power ? then bridge it properly, and you will see double power right up until your deck amp goes *poof* and lets the magic smoke out.

--------------------------------


also, stereo is 2, not 4.

there is only channel seperation between the left and right ( no front and rear)

 

the power doesnt always double if u bridge it. depending on circuitry design, they differ.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ATF Kuk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the power doesnt always double if u bridge it. depending on circuitry design, they differ.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It should double theoretically. When it does not the amp has circuitry to limit the current. Some amps like RE amp can be strange. 35x1 at 4 ohms. 1600x1 at 1 ohm. Someone explain that.

 

that is called a high current amp, used strictly for competion. Kicker makes one as well, they are desighed to nearly triple or quadruple power when the ohm load is cut in half. some cd players can be bridged by using the pos. from the front and neg. from the rear. It should say in the owner's manual, look in the section where it tells you how and where to connect the speakers. If you can't find it there or you don't have the owner's manual, e-mail the company you bought it from (i.e. Pioneer, Alpine, Kenwood...). Don't do it until you find out for sure you can do it without hurting the deck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">35x1 at 4 ohms. 1600x1 at 1 ohm. Someone explain that.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Those are 'cheater' amps.

back in the day the non bridged output of your amplifiers determinted what class you would compete in (iasca?), so to cheat you would buy an amp with a laughable 'normal' output, and go smoke the guys that play fair, on the spl portion of your score, who cares about sq. Just another method used to bend the rules at a sound off.


One of my instructors in school was something like 3 K watts in the 0-50 class, back in the mid-late 90s. Hmmm, my little punch 40 would compete against that in the same class. lol

 

ah got what he ment now... and that will not work with aftermarket radios since they are floating ground. If you just hook let's say the rear left and rear right positive, and the rear left and rear right negitives and expect it to work, it won't. There's a good chance you'll ruin the radio depending on the brand.