Hey guys, whats the best frequency to run to my subs to break them in?

 

just play your subs normally. You won't break them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Orpheus1985 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey guys, whats the best frequency to run to my subs to break them in?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Okay this might sounds dumb but it works for me. Download some classical music and burn it to a cd. Sit in the car turn your subs up to alittle more then 1/2 way but no more then 3/4. Sit in the car with say the volume at a normal listening rate. Just enough to hear some bass. Then just listen for a few songs. After every song turn it up alittle but if you have time every 2 songs turn it up. Then once you get to about 3/4 of the hu volume play one song at a low volume. and your done. See people dont think about classical music as something to break in there subs. But classical music will do your whole system because it has lows as in bass drum and low brass, mids as in trumpets and claranets, and highs as in violins and flutes. Hope this help and made sence.

P.s. look for the Symphony No. 40 by Mozart!

 

what i always tell customers is to not turn the volume up on the radio more than half way for x ammount of time depending on the mass of the voice coil. shorter voice coil less time, and visa-versa. give em about a week of moderate volume on average and u should be fine.

 

hmmm............... breaking in a speaker doesn't make sense. I would love to see any documentation that says differently.

 

How about any manuals for any quality sub or amp. Learn about what you speak of before you become sarcastic

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmmm............... breaking in a speaker doesn't make sense. I would love to see any documentation that says differently.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think he means how to tune them so he gets the best quality out of them. like how you would turn the HU up to 3/4 then turn the amp gain up until there is distortion on the subs, and then turn it down to the point right before distortion occurs, and he wants to get it perfect. thats my guess.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Orpheus1985 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How about any manuals for any quality sub or amp. Learn about what you speak of before you become sarcastic</TD></TR></TABLE>
Who's being sarcastic? Try not being an a$$ and you'll get more respect. Show me a manual.

It doesn't make sense for a few reasons.
1) If I have to do what a manufacturer should do before it ships a product I want a discount!!!!! They usually refer to this as burn in.

2) There is nothing I can think of, that will change with light use in a speaker or amplifier electronically or mechanically.

Here is the manual to my home subwoofer while not top of the line I can't find anywhere in it that would require break-in. http://www.mksound.com/pdf/use...0.pdf


Modified by nsxxtreme at 6:46 PM 8/21/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by http://www.kicker.com/05/tech-suppor...ManualV2_0.pdf &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Especially when used in sealed enclosures, the new KICKER Comps will achieve maximum bass performance after
they have been broken in.
Approximately one to two weeks of daily playing will allow the suspension to soften, and reach its optimum equilibrium.
This time period may vary depending on the amount of play time, volume level, and type of music you listen
to. More play time, with medium volume levels and more bass content, will break in the subwoofer most
quickly. The broken-in sub will exhibit stronger bass performance, smoother response, and greater low bass extension.
For those of you with more sophisticated audio equipment, the Comp woofers can be broken-in on the test
bench overnight with the following procedure.
KICKER Comp Freeair Break-in Procedure
1. Connect the speaker to a power amp of about fifty watts or more. The speaker should not be mounted in any
enclosure - just freeair. Please make sure it will not walk off the bench while it is playing!
2. Connect an audio generator to the input of the power amp, and adjust the generator to approximately 37Hz for
the C8, 32 Hz for the C10, 28 Hz for the C12, and 17 Hz for the C15.
3. Now adjust the gain on the amplifier and generator so that the cone is moving to Xmax. This can be determined
visually by looking at the “blur depth” of the logo on the ISD. A close approximation will do. On the C8 this will be
about 3/4”, on the C10 about 3/4”, on the C12 about 7/8”, and on the C15 about 1”.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Orpheus1985, I spoke to my buddy at Kicker (Regional Division Manager) and he said "breaking in" is not something that is required.


What Kicker meant is that they sound better after the suspension loosen up. Play it soft, play it loud, the suspension will get softer. It is not something that you have to do to achieve the best sound from your sub because eventually the suspension gets softer.


This is expected of all sub once the spider/surround is worn in a bit. It makes sense since the parameters will shift.

nsxxtreme is definitely not a newbie.

Kicker doesn't say you have to break in the sub to get the best quality. They just say it sounds better once it breaks in.


You don't break in better playing at lower volume than at higher volume.

 

aight cool. thanks man, thats all i needed to know. He may not be a newbie but he was sarcastic and he asked to see a manual that says break in. I showed him. The manual says it will achieve maximum bass performance after breaking in. I never said it was required as nsxxtreme seems to have assumed. But anyway, thanks for answering me and maybe nsxxtreme will read the original post next time before being proven wrong and sticking his foot in his mouth. But, no hard feelings.

 

Also, GSteg, i really appreciate your help, so if you've got time tonight, could you take a look at my other post? Entitled HU Setup Help? Thanks man

 

i believe the kicker SoloX's say about a break in period. I'm recalling this from someone who ordered two of them at work. It said to play white noise for something like 8 hours... beats the crap out of me why the hell you would need to. I imagine he'll end up following that info cosidering he doesn't want to blow a sub worth whatever they are retail that he got new for $220.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Orpheus1985 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">aight cool. thanks man, thats all i needed to know. He may not be a newbie but he was sarcastic and he asked to see a manual that says break in. I showed him. The manual says it will achieve maximum bass performance after breaking in. I never said it was required as nsxxtreme seems to have assumed. But anyway, thanks for answering me and maybe nsxxtreme will read the original post next time before being proven wrong and sticking his foot in his mouth. But, no hard feelings.</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL someone needs some prozac.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rjr162 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i believe the kicker SoloX's say about a break in period. I'm recalling this from someone who ordered two of them at work. It said to play white noise for something like 8 hours... beats the crap out of me why the hell you would need to. I imagine he'll end up following that info cosidering he doesn't want to blow a sub worth whatever they are retail that he got new for $220.</TD></TR></TABLE>I would definetly be pissed if I had to do a burn in procedure for any product. This should be done at the factory, I would be really shocked if warranties stipulated this had to be done.

 

The sad thing is, a lot of manufactors will not warranty an unbroken-in sub.

More reason for them to not warranty a blown driver. Kinda like trying to get focal to warranty speakers..lol

 

Well I dont want to get on anyones bad side but I want to prove someone wrong. They said that they need to burn in the speakers. But above I said to turn the volume up slowly. Also that person wanted to see the manual.

 

Okay I showed the manual and you added that, so I consider the thing dropped. I've already pissed off nsxxtreme for no reason so this thread is can be over

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Orpheus1985 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay I showed the manual and you added that, so I consider the thing dropped. I've already pissed off nsxxtreme for no reason so this thread is can be over</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry, I didnt notice the pdf!

 

You didn't **** me off that's actually pretty hard to do. We do however have a difference of opinion. And it probably stems from the fuzzy science that is so common in the audio industry.

 

lol actually I wouldn't say difference in opinion, I haven't worked with that many subs, I just noticed on this set of kickers it mentioned something about break in. So for all I know, you could be right in that its not necassary

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by romoracing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I dont want to get on anyones bad side but I want to prove someone wrong. They said that they need to burn in the speakers. But above I said to turn the volume up slowly. Also that person wanted to see the manual.</TD></TR></TABLE>Who are you trying to prove wrong?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Who are you trying to prove wrong?</TD></TR></TABLE>

hahahahahahahah ditto that