<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EBP_SI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does the alternator to battery wire run directly to the battery or does it go into the fuse box first?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I use a fuse box close to the alt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by peichie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the hammer style crimpers work killer for 0ga. i always use my snap-on crimpers to crimp up to 4ga. i kinda finished my system and wow... i am using a 165 amp alternator, stinger 800cca drycell under the hood and a capacitor in back (along with ground upgrades) and NO light dimming here!</TD></TR></TABLE>

What alternator are you using? Which hammer style crimper are you using? I have seen the pheonix gold, and one for welders online.

 

i got the alternator off ebay, it is for a 92-up civic so the casing is much larger. it was a huge pain in the *** to get it in.
the cpimper i have is from snap-on, it is very similar to the phoenix gold one. thay work great.

 

How do you keep the crimp and wire in position and hit it with the hammer I have considered buying it, but it looks cumbersome.

 

Right, well I decided to try this. I bought 0 gauge wire (the crimps were like 4 bucks a peice, and I had to use a vice to crimp it) It looks so sweet, I got the battery to ground, tranny to ground and block to ground. I found were the alt hooks up to the power, but I don't know were to disconnect the stock power to alternator wire. Do i need to disconnect it? or should I just add the direct wire from bat to alt.

Does the alt have a ground? Were is it? 95 civic

 

I crimp mine with a hammer and chisel

 

Leave the stock connection in place. Just add the second run from alt to battery.

 

okay, thanks I'll do that tonight

 

hmmm would it be worth it for me to do this if I have extra 4ga wire from my install left?
I have a bunch of it left and reading this I am not sure if it is worth me doing.
My car is an auto so I dont have much as far as performance upgrades on it.....exhaust/cai/msd
LOL...once I saw how shitty auto was I said *** it and just started doing good old stereo work on the car.
soo should I even bother?

 

If your stereo is big enough, then it will be worth it. Or you can do it because it looks cool.

 

I just finished the upgrade, for the 0 gauge I had to take old copper piping and drill a hole through the crushed end and then crimp the other end. Anyway. from alt to bat, Awesome upgrade. I can feel the sub inside the eardrum, not hear it FEEL it. Great upgrade, my cap is way more stable on the big hits. Awesome, only cost me $20 and the best upgrade I have ever done.

I recomend this to everyone who cares about thier system.

 

my system is a 4 channel that is 85x4 and my sub amp I think is around 300-400 watts...
I might as well do it....
what gauge are all of you using?? I have 4 gauge laying around but if I should just go bigger I will just spend the money and do it right the first time

 

The longest run is from your alt to the battery, which is about 3 feet. Anything bigger than 4 gauge is overkill.

 

you get a big fat from me...

jk. looks very clean.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The longest run is from your alt to the battery, which is about 3 feet. Anything bigger than 4 gauge is overkill. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm running 0/1

 

ok so
4g from the chassis to the stock ground point
and 4g from the +battry to the +on the altnater?
i wana do this mod tomaorw im getting some bog in first gear

 

Don't forget to upgrade the battery ground. $5 for that from local autoparts store. 15 inches of 2 gauge is plenty in a civic or teg.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rcurley55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm running 0/1 </TD></TR></TABLE>

Showoff

 

so
1 from chassis, to the head
1 from positive on battry to the positive in the altnator
1 from the chassis to the batry ground?

please give info on this is it right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omekone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so
1 from chassis, to the head
1 from positive on battry to the positive in the altnator
1 from the chassis to the batry ground?

please give info on this is it right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Engine to chassis.
Alternator + to battery +
Battery - to chassis
Tranny to chassis (optional)

 

So now I'm confused... seems like I've found two methods of grounding:

1. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=211321
2. http://forum.sounddomain.com/f...06234

The second is more along the lines of what vteg has done. The first is something that's been going on in the Type R forum for a while (there's been a good amount of debate as to it's validity...)

Can someone shed some light on these two choices? They seem drastically different.

 

They both do the same thing. That itr seemed to have just added more ground points. Upgrading the stock points will give you more current carry capacity than you can every use, especially if you are doing it for performance reasons. If you want to add more grounds, it does not hurt. The second is more universally accepted.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They both do the same thing. That itr seemed to have just added more ground points.</TD></TR></TABLE>

But from the two pics below, I don't see an alternator to POSITIVE battery terminal... looks like everything is grounded to the negative terminal.

 

Oh. If you don't have a stereo don't worry about the alternator. That is only ground upgrade. For car audio, you upgrade the connection from the alternator also. It can't hurt you if you do the upgrade.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh. If you don't have a stereo don't worry about the alternator. That is only ground upgrade. For car audio, you upgrade the connection from the alternator also. It can't hurt you if you do the upgrade.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So the alternator to negative battery terminal acts as a ground. But is that ok to use in conjuction with the "Big 3" upgrade? Namely the alternator to POSITIVE battery terminal? So the end result would be two wires from the alternator, one going to each battery post.

Doesn't sound right, but then again, that's why I'm asking.