I never really see these so I figured what the hell, why not. If you want details on the rest of the build it's in my sig. Car is a 98 Civic Hatch

List of gear going in:

Optima Red Top (Going in trunk)
1/0 wiring
Circuit Breakers in varying sizes

Clifford Intelliguard8000 with Intellistart IV (Several sensors, backup battery, and of course adding power door locks, trunk pop & rs)

Eclipse 8053 HU
Diamond Audio Hex 6.5" components
Diamond Audio D3400.4 (200rmsx2)
Diamond Audio D9 10" woofer
Diamond Audio d61000.1 (1000rms)

Shitloads of dynamat (well, raamat) which I still need to buy the majority of.
H.O. Alternator (Will be down the road a ways)

Looking forward to getting everything up and running, but rather curious to see how the stock alternator will handle trying to run 1400rms. Oh and yes, I will be doing the big three too, of course.

Only thing stereo related I've done thus far -

 

I'm running a Memphis Belle 1300D off a "stock" B16 alternator and factory sized battery with no issues. I think with the extra battery, you'll be just fine.

 

Looking forward to seeing how this thread turns out for possible inclusion in the FAQ.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VegaS10 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm running a Memphis Belle 1300D off a "stock" B16 alternator and factory sized battery with no issues. I think with the extra battery, you'll be just fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well it won't be an "extra" battery per say, as it will be the only battery ha ha.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looking forward to seeing how this thread turns out for possible inclusion in the FAQ.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

If that's the case, I'd lean towards the Stinger/Odyssey batteries instead of the Optima.

In our dB Drag testing, the Stinger/Odyssey walks all over ANY Optima product, plus they are smaller and lighter (if that matters).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VegaS10 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If that's the case, I'd lean towards the Stinger/Odyssey batteries instead of the Optima.

In our dB Drag testing, the Stinger/Odyssey walks all over ANY Optima product, plus they are smaller and lighter (if that matters).</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, I already have the optima, and I got it for free so I can't complain too much

Smaller and lighter really means nothing to me, since it's going in the trunk anyways. I actually thought about titling the thread "fu[/i]ck weight reduction" but figured that wouldn't be easily indexable

If I ever buy another battery I'll have to try one of those out. Thanks

 

Been rocking the Odyssey motorcycle battery in my daily driver for 3 years.

Adding weight in the trunk causes a pendulum effect so that's no excuse. Actually I'm just busting your *****. It's the anticipation.

 

If I was you I would do the big three upgrade and then do a load test and reading to see what condition your alternator is in right now. So you can figure out how your system is going to play

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Adding weight in the trunk causes a pendulum effect so that's no excuse. Actually I'm just busting your *****. It's the anticipation.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ha ha

This build will take a while. I still need to get the car running and driving before I do the alarm and system.

My priorities -

1. Get the car running
2. Security
3. System

I'd do the alarm while it's here at home, but I generally have enough free time at work that I may as well do it there

The only thing I still need to purchase for this portion is a couple orders of raamat. Going to do the entire car, firewall, roof, and all.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti-eater &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I was you I would do the big three upgrade and then do a load test and reading to see what condition your alternator is in right now. So you can figure out how your system is going to play</TD></TR></TABLE>

Like I mentioned above, biggest priority is getting the car running, but that's certainly not a bad idea

I'm still trying to figure out how I want to run things. Will be going 1/0 directly off the alternator, but I'm thinking that I'll split it off at the firewall with a distribution block and run 8 gauge to the fusebox(will be in the interior), 8 gauge back to the starter and 1/0 back to the battery.

Anyone forsee any problems with that?

 

I would go 4 gauge to the starter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VegaS10 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would go 4 gauge to the starter. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Even though the factory is only ~10 gauge? What's your reasoning?

 

in for updates so i can learn a lil bit

 

how about are you gonna mount the mids. factory door mounts or kick panels ? i've had alot of experience doing both set ups..

love the 8053 hu i wish the newer eclipses had that kind of quality.. i had some issues with a newer cd7000..


I might score a set of Focal Be's 2 way active. the price is too good to pass up (a little under 2 k) esp i've seen them go 5k retail.

a lot of local guys are selling some bad *** stuff lately.. audison, genesis, dls, and zapco equipment. its hard telling myself not to spend loot.. between car audio and home theater its killing me lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how about are you gonna mount the mids. factory door mounts or kick panels ? i've had alot of experience doing both set ups..

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm planning on mounting them in the factory door mounts per say, but mounted to the door instead of the door panel like the factory does. I have honestly never liked kick panels for speakers: I don't like how they look, and I like keeping things factory looking for theft reasons. I have yet to figure out what I'm going to do as far as the tweeters though. I'd like to keep them as close as possible to the mid driver, but civic door panels don't leave much allowance for that

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

love the 8053 hu i wish the newer eclipses had that kind of quality.. i had some issues with a newer cd7000..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I feel like I have the last of the great eclipse hu's, and it really is a shame. A buddy of mine has a cd8455 (or cd8445 can never remember which) and my 8053 sounds significantly better than his. I wish eclipse hadn't gone downhill

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I might score a set of Focal Be's 2 way active. the price is too good to pass up (a little under 2 k) esp i've seen them go 5k retail. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Very jealous. I know of those speakers and would LOVE to have a set. I would have bought quite a few focal bits and pieces if my work had carried them at the time.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
a lot of local guys are selling some bad *** stuff lately.. audison, genesis, dls, and zapco equipment. its hard telling myself not to spend loot.. between car audio and home theater its killing me lol </TD></TR></TABLE>

There's a guy selling an audison amp locally that I've been eying, but I always have better stuff to spend my money on. It's a shame really

 

keeping the tweeter with in a wavelength is a good idea. you could do like some component companies and make a small bridge like aparataus and have the tweet center and above the mid an expensive coaxial per say lol. i remember boston had a few sets that were able to do this. for people who want the components but without having to cut or add anything.

hope this link works. something along the lines like this could keep it stealthy and free of any cutting. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/...98208

 

are you going active or keeping the diamond passives ??

i thought the 8053 is capable of running active. front channels high pass tweet, rear channels would be your mids bandpassed, and rear ouput for sub.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">keeping the tweeter with in a wavelength is a good idea. you could do like some component companies and make a small bridge like aparataus and have the tweet center and above the mid an expensive coaxial per say lol. i remember boston had a few sets that were able to do this. for people who want the components but without having to cut or add anything.

hope this link works. something along the lines like this could keep it stealthy and free of any cutting. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/...98208</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah diamond makes a similar setup, but unfortunately you have to buy a specific mid (iirc) to make it work. I need to see how much room I have in the door once I get to work on installing the speakers, thankfully the mids I have are not the deepest I've put in a civic.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you going active or keeping the diamond passives ??

i thought the 8053 is capable of running active. front channels high pass tweet, rear channels would be your mids bandpassed, and rear ouput for sub.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, it is possible to run them active, but unfortunately I have no experience doing so. I know how to do it, but I've never ran a setup that way.

Do you think my amp would be sufficient power for the mids? I know that crossovers "eat" a lot of power, but as to how much I don't know.

This is the amp I have, roughly 50x4rms

http://www.hifisoundconnection...30046

 

the link you have says its 100x4.. which is plenty... if the door is properly deadened. with good mdf spacers they will pound. place a sound absorbing mat of some sort behind the driver. this will stop reflections off the sheet metal behind the driver. this will improve midrange and more accurate representation of midbass

this is an awesome write up about effective door deadening.. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/...?t=27

my friend did a write up about running active let me try to find it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the link you have says its 100x4.. which is plenty...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

That threw me off at first, if you notice, it actually says 100x4rms @ 2ohm.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> if the door is properly deadened. with good mdf spacers they will pound. place a sound absorbing mat of some sort behind the driver. this will stop reflections off the sheet metal behind the driver. this will improve midrange and more accurate representation of midbass </TD></TR></TABLE>

All which is part of the plan. Should be ordering some raamat this coming week. The sound absorbing mat you're referring to is dynaxorb I assume?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
my friend did a write up about running active let me try to find it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That would be much appreciated

 

i've seen people use this egg crate foam material i posted a link above of an awesome write up for sound deadening.. i use a deflex pad i got from partsexpress

here is the write up for active vs passive. http://www.caraudio.com/forum/...46726


Modified by Slain at 3:08 PM 10/20/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've seen people use this egg crate foam material i posted a link above of an awesome write up for sound deadening.. i use a deflex pad i got from partsexpress

here is the write up for active vs passive. http://www.caraudio.com/forum/...46726

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for that. Some decent reading.

What do you think about running active, bridging my diamond amp for the mids (200x2) and running a smaller ppi amp (2x50) to the tweeters?

Seems like it will be too much, but I know that diamond speakers can take a beating and are pretty power hungry.

 

thats a good idea with running 200x2..with that kind of power you'll feel the midbass in your gut.. too much power doesnt ruin speakers its distortion that does as long as your not going nuts and sending a clipped signal to the speakers that will be fine.

i've put a 15x2 watt amp on a pair of tweeters just to play around with the active xover and it was deafining.. that smaller ppi amp would be more than enough. match the gain levels to your other amps and you'll be set..

if you have any questions pertaining to any of the active stuff feel free to ask.

 

Alright, you've helped make my mind up. It will be a bitch to get everything installed the way I want, but once I do, it should sure sound incredible.

Pretty much set on installing the amps in the quarter panel.

 

In to read when I get up in the am

 

are you looking to do a stealth install or a nice show display ?.. i did that with some mdf on my old integra made a false wall out of mdf. had a 4 channel on the left and the sub amp on the right. had black grills made to slip over them blended right in with the rest of the interior when the grills were on.

rammat makes an awesome sound deflector material called ensolite its on their site. line the inner door skin with that after a couple of layers of sound deadning. it helps stop the sound reflections off the door skin panel. I've had alot of good experience with using it or materials close to it. helps clear up the midrange between 250hz- 1.5khz... plus accurate midbass 80hz-120hz