amp
Without knowing which W7 or Type S speakers there is no way of knowing what amp(s) to recommend, however, I can say you should be running two amps, one mono block sub amp for the W7 and a 2ch amp for the Type S.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by myusernamesucks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just got a jl w7 and got some alpine type s speakers in my car.. was wondering what kinda amp would be best to power both of those?</TD></TR></TABLE>
for your w7 something in the realm of JL's 250/1 to 500/1 will power up a good amount. as for your alpine type s, something 2 channel form alpine would do your type s speaker wonders. but i know for a fact that the w7 can handle more than jl's 500/1, you might want to upgrade later on, but its gonna cost you..good luck
for your w7 something in the realm of JL's 250/1 to 500/1 will power up a good amount. as for your alpine type s, something 2 channel form alpine would do your type s speaker wonders. but i know for a fact that the w7 can handle more than jl's 500/1, you might want to upgrade later on, but its gonna cost you..good luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by myusernamesucks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn..theres no way to hook up subs and speakers to one amp huh?</TD></TR></TABLE> Yes there is, even with what you have, you still have not said which W7 you have there are 2 main problems with using one amp to drive both the sub and the high-pass speakers, one is power, [wattage], even if you have the 8W7 you have a 500W sub and 100W speakers, so assuming you get a 4x400W RMS into 4 ohms amp and run it in 3ch mode 2x100W RMS into 4 ohms for the SPR17C leaving you with the other two channels bridged into a 1x200W RMS into 4 ohms, so right away you are underpowered for the sub, and as most 4ch amps are not stable below 4 ohms when bridged, W7 subs are 3 ohms, [W13 is DVC 1.5 ohm], you will have over-heating issues.
That leaves you with having to find a 4x250W RMS amp that is stable below 4 ohms when bridged, if you can then you will just have to turn the gain down for the two channels running the front speakers, however that brings us to the other main problem, because it takes a lot of power, [current] to make bass, the sub side of the amp will draw a lot more power then the high-pass side, and it will do it to the loss of current to the high-pass side at high volume levels, when you crank it, this will result in distortion on the high-pass.
All the above assumes you have an 8W7, if it is a 10" (750W), 12" (1000W) or a 13" (1500W) the problem becomes worse.
With that said, if you can control your urge to "crank it up" and underpowered amp will run a speaker, [sub in this case] no problem at all, just not to it's full potential, it's not the under-powering that hurts the speaker it's driving an underpowered amp into constant clipping, [by cranking it up] that hurts the speaker, the output of a clipping amp is DC current, and DC current overheats the VC, too much DC current, [clipping] will burn the VC.
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That leaves you with having to find a 4x250W RMS amp that is stable below 4 ohms when bridged, if you can then you will just have to turn the gain down for the two channels running the front speakers, however that brings us to the other main problem, because it takes a lot of power, [current] to make bass, the sub side of the amp will draw a lot more power then the high-pass side, and it will do it to the loss of current to the high-pass side at high volume levels, when you crank it, this will result in distortion on the high-pass.
All the above assumes you have an 8W7, if it is a 10" (750W), 12" (1000W) or a 13" (1500W) the problem becomes worse.
With that said, if you can control your urge to "crank it up" and underpowered amp will run a speaker, [sub in this case] no problem at all, just not to it's full potential, it's not the under-powering that hurts the speaker it's driving an underpowered amp into constant clipping, [by cranking it up] that hurts the speaker, the output of a clipping amp is DC current, and DC current overheats the VC, too much DC current, [clipping] will burn the VC.
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thanks for the help..but got rid of the 12w7 for a 10 w6v2..planning to get a jl 500/1 for that and not sure which amp to get for the speakers..planning on bumping it occassionally, not too much. Would it be cheaper to run it through one amp rather than 2? sorry..im a noob dont know too much about this stuff
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One amp or two, which is cheaper?
That will depend on the amp(s) used, generally one amp is cheaper then two amps, but finding an amp that will work for two, you said Type S Alpine, high-pass speakers, [probably 50W] and a 600W 10W6v2-D4 will be very hard, even more so with the 10W6v2-D4, it is a DVC 4 ohm sub, meaning it can be wired to 2 ohms or 8 ohms.
As mentioned, 4ch amps are not stable below 4 ohms when bridged.
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That will depend on the amp(s) used, generally one amp is cheaper then two amps, but finding an amp that will work for two, you said Type S Alpine, high-pass speakers, [probably 50W] and a 600W 10W6v2-D4 will be very hard, even more so with the 10W6v2-D4, it is a DVC 4 ohm sub, meaning it can be wired to 2 ohms or 8 ohms.
As mentioned, 4ch amps are not stable below 4 ohms when bridged.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by myusernamesucks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would a jl 300/2 amp power my alpine speakers?</TD></TR></TABLE> Yes.
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damn fcm thanks for all your help..o yeh..and also do subs take a while to turn on or something? when i turn on my car, the music will start playing and then like a minute later, the subs come on. sometimes the sub will just turn off and then the sound from the subs will come back on 30 seconds to a minute later. could this be a wiring problem?
There should be no delay, [a possible 1sec. delay if a delay trigger circuit is installed] but the subs should not be cutting out.
So something is wrong, the first thing I would check are all the connections, power ground and trigger at the amp, at the ground point and batt. also check the connections to the fuse holder in the power lead, and if you are using an AGU type fuse, [big glass type] replace it, even if it looks good.
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So something is wrong, the first thing I would check are all the connections, power ground and trigger at the amp, at the ground point and batt. also check the connections to the fuse holder in the power lead, and if you are using an AGU type fuse, [big glass type] replace it, even if it looks good.
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