k i can afford the 1000/1 if i save up for about 3more weeks.
so if money wasnt an issue, would it be better to have 2 500/1 powering each sub, or just ge the 1000/1?

or would ther be no difference at all?

 

last question.
what makes the JL 1000/1 so mcuh better than another amp thats alot cheaper with the same specs?? how can it be any different?
example:what makes the JL1000/1 better than > http://cgi.ebay.com/2006-NEW-H...wItem

 

also the JL1000/1 only lets up to a 4gauge ground wire, is that gonna be big enough?
and what does class D mean?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtaaakkkk!!! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">last question.
what makes the JL 1000/1 so mcuh better than another amp thats alot cheaper with the same specs?? how can it be any different?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You get what you pay for. Quality of build, quality of parts used, warranty, etc etc, are all going to vary by manufacturer.

If you're going to ask for advice, please take it and don't waste people's time. If you buy **** amps, you're asking for a headache.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtaaakkkk!!! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">last question.
what makes the JL 1000/1 so mcuh better than another amp thats alot cheaper with the same specs?? how can it be any different?
example:what makes the JL1000/1 better than &gt; http://cgi.ebay.com/2006-NEW-H...wItem</TD></TR></TABLE>You need to read all the specs more carefully

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtaaakkkk!!! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also the JL1000/1 only lets up to a 4gauge ground wire, is that gonna be big enough?
and what does class D mean?</TD></TR></TABLE> Yes it will be big enough.
You asked... http://www.ee.ucr.edu/~rlake/E...L.pdf 94

 

If you can afford it, get the 1000/1 or the two 500/1, [they will cost more] there is a bit of an advantage with the 2 power supplies. 94

 

actually eBay sells the 500/1 for $300 shipped and the 1000/1 is $600 shipped. so should i just get the 2 500/1?

i just want to know if its really going to be a big difference in sound going to the jl 1000 over the ebay one, or am i just paying for the name?.. cause there is a huger difference in price, and if its just going to be a small noticable difference, tehn i would rather get the cheaper one..
thats the factor that keeping me from choosing. i need to know that the JL is going to be worth $400 extra to get the better amp. you know what i mean?


Modified by vtaaakkkk!!! at 11:17 PM 12/8/2006

 

IMO the JL Audio amps are in all ways better then the "eBay amp" and there will definitely be a big differance in SQ, but then again I don't know if you have heard a good car audio sound system with clean, tight and accurate sub bass.

Why don't you pick your favorite disk and hit up some local car audio shops and have a listen to a good sub amp and a cheap one and see what you think, after all it's you that has to listen to it.
Keep in mind it's not just what it sounds like, components used and build quality of the amps should be taken into account also. 94

 

so i made up my mind and am definetely am going with the JL amp to push my my 2 10" alpine type-r's. There 4ohms
and you guys suggested the JL 1000/1 amp.

But if i just convert the subs to 1ohm then i can just get the JL 500\1 and push the subs just as hard right?
would it make it more dangerous to convert it to 1ohm??
i dont understand the logic to why subs are different ohms. if they were all 1ohms. then you could get half the size amp required to push them and it would be way cheaper..

Also should i get a ported box or sealed?

 

^^^^bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtaaakkkk!!! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so i made up my mind and am definetely am going with the JL amp to push my my 2 10" alpine type-r's. There 4ohms
and you guys suggested the JL 1000/1 amp. </TD></TR></TABLE> Good choice, it is the perfect amp for the subs.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtaaakkkk!!! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But if i just convert the subs to 1ohm then i can just get the JL 500\1 and push the subs just as hard right?
would it make it more dangerous to convert it to 1ohm??
i dont understand the logic to why subs are different ohms. if they were all 1ohms. then you could get half the size amp required to push them and it would be way cheaper.. </TD></TR></TABLE> JL Audio slash series amps are not stable below 1.5 ohms, but it makes no diff. anyway, JL slash series amps have "regulated" power supplies the make the same RMS wattage into 1.5 ohms - 4 ohms and 11V -14.5V.
A one ohm load will damage the amp, and will not get you any more power, the best way to wire the subs is wire the VC of each sub in series, then wire the subs in parallel, [4 ohm load].

Even though you can get more output from some amps by connecting a lower load to them, nothing is free, with the lower loads, [impedance] you gain power but you loose dampening and linearity, [sound quality], amp will also run hotter.

The different impedance's subs are available is is to make wiring multiple sub configurations possible, a 4 ohm final load is preferable from a SQ point of view. 94