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97 Accord Speaker Install Problem

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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 12:36 PM
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Default 97 Accord Speaker Install Problem

Speaker Install Problem
I’m in the middle of installing my own new audio system, which for me involves a lot of trial and error. I’m eager for input from anyone with similar experience, since I’ve never done this before. Right now I’m trying to figure out how to get 16-gauge speaker wire into the front doors of my ’97 Honda Accord to power the speakers. I want to run speaker wire from the amp in the trunk to the front and rear speakers. The front speakers are components; I’d like to stow the crossover under the dash, and run the wire to the woofer and the tweeter into the door somehow. There’s a bunch of wires running through a rubber accordion tube into the door now, but when it meets the body of the door there’s a 2-part multi-pin connector that fills the entire hole, so I can’t get my wires through there. Unless someone can tell me a better idea, it’s looking like I have to take the doors off and drill my own holes through some pretty thick steel, line the holes with grommets, and run the wire for the woofers and tweeters. The factory wires to the speakers are 20 gauge, I think. Of course, I could try to find a spot to splice into the existing wire, and put the crossover inside the door. But I’d like to run the 16 gauge wire if I can, and I’d rather have the crossover under the dash where it won’t get wet or rattle around. Here’s the setup:

Head Unit – Alpine CDA-9847
Amplifier – Alpine MRV-F450 (4 x 50W + 1 x 200W)
Front – Alpine SPS-171A Type-S Component Speakers
Rear - Alpine SPR-69LP 6x9 Type-R 2-way speakers
Monster Cable BA-IP100 10-gauge Amp Install Kit
Monster Cable 132010 Interlink Micro Xln, 6-channel Interconnect Cables (5m)

I’m planning to keep this car as long as I can, and I wanted to get some bang for the buck so I got Alpine gear. I’m partial to Boston Acoustics speakers, but they’re a lot pricier and I think I can tweak this system to sound the way I want. I’m a recording engineer so I know what I like – a flat, tight, honest system. Later on I’m planning to add on a single 12” subwoofer in a box in the trunk, and put it in front of the little hatch that opens up in the middle of the back seat.

I’ve got my Chilton’s manual and my instructions from Crutchfield. I bought harnesses, connectors and speaker baffles from them; they have great information on their website; but I bought the big stuff from http://www.HookedOnTronics.com in Florida. Their prices are really competitive. I ended up returning a lower-powered amp (MRV-250) and getting the 450 instead, and it was no problem (I hadn’t opened the box).

So here’s how the wiring is going. The amp is pretty big so it goes in the trunk. To minimize the space it takes up, I’ve figured out a way to hang it on a piece of black plywood from the top of the trunk. I’ve got compression springs for the top and bottom of the bolts that hold it in place to cushion the ride for it a little. I ran the 6-channel Monster Interlink cable down the right side of the car, and ran the 16-gauge speaker wire back along the same path for the front speakers, going under the dash for the driver’s side. I also ran a turn-on lead from the head unit to the amp. I’m going to run power for the amp down the left side of the car.

I haven’t installed the amp yet, and I think what I’ll do first is run the speakers from the head unit while I get the amp happening, and decide whether to drill through the doors for the 16-gauge speaker wire. That means I’ll stow the crossovers inside the doors, and use the connectors I got from Crutchfield to power them off the factory speaker connectors. Before I cut holes in the door panels for the tweeters, I want to try moving them around a little to listen where they sound best. I know they’re supposed to be close to the woofers to keep them in phase, but I feel that that the higher up they are (meaning more on-axis to my ears), the more the sound stage will open up.

Anyway, I’ve figured out most of this in a vacuum, so I’m curious for feedback from somebody who’s done this before. Any advice? Thanks in advance!
-Lisle
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 01:01 PM
  #2  
B18C_EJ8's Avatar
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Well you're in luck. There just happens to be a thread on here about running wires into a Prelude's doors, which you can use to run wires into your Accord's doors.

Here ya go: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1478234
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 04:20 PM
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fcm
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Default Re: 97 Accord Speaker Install Problem (LisleLeete)

To make it easier run one speaker wire into the door and mount the x-overs in the door, just mount them inside the vapor barrier, [between vapor barrier and door panel] do not mount "inside" the door, [they will get wet and be damaged] 94
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 09:38 AM
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Default Re: 97 Accord Speaker Install Problem (fcm)

Wow! I am in awe of the collective intelligence here. I never would have thought of taking the fenders off and drilling throught the existing plug. That's my project for my next day off. Thank God I didn't take the doors off - they never would have hung straight again! Thank you!
-Lisle
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 09:42 AM
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Default Re: 97 Accord Speaker Install Problem (LisleLeete)

Thanks for the good tip! After I read your post, I used velcro to stick the crossover to the inside of the door panel, inside the vapor barrier. It should stay nice and dry there. We get a little less rain in L.A. than in Kelowna, BC, but when it rains, it pours!
-Lisle
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 03:57 PM
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Default Re: 97 Accord Speaker Install Problem (LisleLeete)

LOL, I would bet if you check you get more rain then we do. 94
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Old Jan 29, 2006 | 08:57 PM
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i wish it would rain here. its just always so damned humid. if you have any questions about the door thing, feel free to PM me.
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 12:57 AM
  #8  
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Default Re: 97 Accord Speaker Install Problem (fcm)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> To make it easier run one speaker wire into the door and mount the x-overs in the door, just mount them inside the vapor barrier, [between vapor barrier and door panel] do not mount "inside" the door, [they will get wet and be damaged] 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

dang it man you beat me to the punch. lol.
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 11:05 AM
  #9  
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Default Re: 97 Accord Speaker Install Problem (LisleLeete)

i did something like you, but i didn´t have such a nice amp or front speakers.

Anyway, my accord is a 95 and i took the doors off (i can´t take the driver side fender ) anyway, is best to run one cable to each door and leave the crossover in the door (you could just seal it in a zip lock) and that would be easier, there is some space in the connector, so no need to drill holes in the door. Also, why not put the tweeter in the inside of the mirror (the lil triangle plastic on the inside of the side mirrors) get somebody to do some fiberglass to mold them there. At least thats what i want to do when i get components, i think they are pretty close to the ear in a respectable range and they will be hard to spot. (the 4runners have the tweeters there irrc) Look in this thread, this is what i meant: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1505835

I took everything apart, i even had the chance to wash my car carpet and place the speaker wires right where i wanted them.

If you need some kind of help or anything pm me, i have the helms for the car and i´ll be gladly to help.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 06:03 PM
  #10  
LisleLeete's Avatar
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Default Re: 97 Accord Speaker Install Problem (GZERO)

Thanks for the advice about tweeter location; however, I decided to go ahead and cut a hole in the upper door panel for the tweeters. I think I found a good spot. Hope it works out; there's no turning back now!
-Lisle
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